Fluid loss changing oil filter only?

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Ratchey

Ratchey

Joined
Sep 23, 2019
Threads
27
Messages
919
Location
Kalispell, MT up near Canada
I just changed my oil today and it looks like the filter cap is leaking. I don't see any oil coming from the top of the cap so guessing that it might be cracked near the ear. It is missing one of the ears and it was on there really tight so assume it was damaged previously before I bought it a few weeks ago.

I have ordered an aluminum replacement cap. Any idea on how much fluid I will lose when removing just the filter housing? I would rather not empty everything as I just filled it with nearly 8 quarts of Mobile 1.

Thanks,
Brian
 
I replaced my filter a few weeks ago for the same reason. The cap was leaking. I only lost a half quart, if that. Put the front axle up on ramps and maybe that helps.
 
I guess the question is how bad is the leak? If its not too bad, Id run it for 3k, then just do a full change, keeping a pan on the driveway to catch drips and keeping an eye on the oil level.

If its a bad leak, Id probably let it sit overnight so most of the oil can drain into the pan (probably?) and then stick the stupid little plastic disposable drain thing that comes with the filters in the housing to drain what comes out. Then replace the cap hoping you dont lose a lot.

This topic has actually been on my radar as Ive been trying to figure out the best way to extend the oil change interval as much as possible considering how much I utterly hate the process of changing the oil on this vehicle.

Im now going to take this opportunity to bitch about how overly complicated and needlessly time-consuming the entire oil and filter change process is on the 200 series LC/LX, and how much I abhor it.

The 3UR requires a ratchet with 3 different size sockets to remove multiple plastic "splash guards" in order to access a ridiculously complicated "filter housing". A housing that has two "caps" and is upside down requiring you to remove the little cap to drain the oil thats in the housing so it doesnt pour all over you during the next process, which is using another special socket ($$$) to remove the main cap to actually remove the filter. And then replace two o-rings. A design which I have wondered is not solely for the purpose of saving Toyota money because of the pressure on manufacturers to provide "free maintenance" and these type filters dont require a metal body, thus, cheaper.

I guess im a little bit spoiled by the fact that the process on my 7.3L Powerstroke diesel requires literally no tools whatsoever and its one of the top 5 most reliable and long lasting engines in the history of the IC engine. (Fujimoto drain valve and I put the filters on hand tight so I can remove them with just my hands. No leaks.) Which is actually a very similar process to that of the very first vehicle I learned to change oil on about 25 years ago, my '77 FJ40 with the 2F. I guess if the 3UR-FE was the first vehicle Id ever changed oil on, I wouldn't even be aware of how ridiculous it is.

For the record, on the 200, Im currently running Mobil 1 Extended Performance Annual Protection 20k Mile 5w-20 with the Mobil 1 Extended Performance 20k Mile Filter. And Im going 1 year/20k miles between changes.

And FYI, dont forget to change your PCV valve at least every 60k. The 3UR has a thing where they start to burn oil when those get dirty. :beer::beer:
 
Normally I’d say collect the oil in a clean container and dump it back in, but if it had been leaking for some time the whole area is probably pretty nasty and difficult to avoid contamination.

I’d get a 5qt jug of fresh oil then do as someone else suggested and put the front on ramps. Remove the filter cover. I’m pretty sure less than a quart will come out.. but with over a gallon on hand you have your bases covered.

In case you haven’t seen the details yet, if it’s an OE toyota aluminum cover you’ll need to move the support tube from your plastic cover over.
 
studawg said:
I guess the question is how bad is the leak? If its not too bad, Id run it for 3k, then just do a full change, keeping a pan on the driveway to catch drips and keeping an eye on the oil level.

If its a bad leak, Id probably let it sit overnight so most of the oil can drain into the pan (probably?) and then stick the stupid little plastic disposable drain thing that comes with the filters in the housing to drain what comes out. Then replace the cap hoping you dont lose a lot.

This topic has actually been on my radar as Ive been trying to figure out the best way to extend the oil change interval as much as possible considering how much I utterly hate the process of changing the oil on this vehicle.

Im now going to take this opportunity to bitch about how overly complicated and needlessly time-consuming the entire oil and filter change process is on the 200 series LC/LX, and how much I abhor it.

The 3UR requires a ratchet with 3 different size sockets to remove multiple plastic "splash guards" in order to access a ridiculously complicated "filter housing". A housing that has two "caps" and is upside down requiring you to remove the little cap to drain the oil thats in the housing so it doesnt pour all over you during the next process, which is using another special socket ($$$) to remove the main cap to actually remove the filter. And then replace two o-rings. A design which I have wondered is not solely for the purpose of saving Toyota money because of the pressure on manufacturers to provide "free maintenance" and these type filters dont require a metal body, thus, cheaper.

I guess im a little bit spoiled by the fact that the process on my 7.3L Powerstroke diesel requires literally no tools whatsoever and its one of the top 5 most reliable and long lasting engines in the history of the IC engine. (Fujimoto drain valve and I put the filters on hand tight so I can remove them with just my hands. No leaks.) Which is actually a very similar process to that of the very first vehicle I learned to change oil on about 25 years ago, my '77 FJ40 with the 2F. I guess if the 3UR-FE was the first vehicle Id ever changed oil on, I wouldn't even be aware of how ridiculous it is.

For the record, on the 200, Im currently running Mobil 1 Extended Performance Annual Protection 20k Mile 5w-20 with the Mobil 1 Extended Performance 20k Mile Filter. And Im going 1 year/20k miles between changes.

And FYI, dont forget to change your PCV valve at least every 60k. The 3UR has a thing where they start to burn oil when those get dirty. :beer::beer:
Click to expand...

Wow. I actually really like this new cartridge-style oil filter. Much better and less mess than the older canister style, especially the ones that have the filter pointing down (yeah, I'm talking about you, 2F/3FE). Nothing about changing the oil in this truck bothers me. It takes only a few seconds with an impact driver to pull the front skid plate.
 
Plus no as-cheap-as-possible anti-drainback valves to fail and you can easily look at filter media and see assembly problems.
 
bloc said:
Plus no as-cheap-as-possible anti-drainback valves to fail and you can easily look at filter media and see assembly problems.
Click to expand...

EXACTLY. I've cut open a bunch of filters and some are really flimsy inside (looking at you, FRAM). And it's really a great bonus to be able to see what the filter element is catching.
 
studawg said:
I guess the question is how bad is the leak? If its not too bad, Id run it for 3k, then just do a full change, keeping a pan on the driveway to catch drips and keeping an eye on the oil level.

If its a bad leak, Id probably let it sit overnight so most of the oil can drain into the pan (probably?) and then stick the stupid little plastic disposable drain thing that comes with the filters in the housing to drain what comes out. Then replace the cap hoping you dont lose a lot.

This topic has actually been on my radar as Ive been trying to figure out the best way to extend the oil change interval as much as possible considering how much I utterly hate the process of changing the oil on this vehicle.

Im now going to take this opportunity to bitch about how overly complicated and needlessly time-consuming the entire oil and filter change process is on the 200 series LC/LX, and how much I abhor it.

The 3UR requires a ratchet with 3 different size sockets to remove multiple plastic "splash guards" in order to access a ridiculously complicated "filter housing". A housing that has two "caps" and is upside down requiring you to remove the little cap to drain the oil thats in the housing so it doesnt pour all over you during the next process, which is using another special socket ($$$) to remove the main cap to actually remove the filter. And then replace two o-rings. A design which I have wondered is not solely for the purpose of saving Toyota money because of the pressure on manufacturers to provide "free maintenance" and these type filters dont require a metal body, thus, cheaper.

I guess im a little bit spoiled by the fact that the process on my 7.3L Powerstroke diesel requires literally no tools whatsoever and its one of the top 5 most reliable and long lasting engines in the history of the IC engine. (Fujimoto drain valve and I put the filters on hand tight so I can remove them with just my hands. No leaks.) Which is actually a very similar process to that of the very first vehicle I learned to change oil on about 25 years ago, my '77 FJ40 with the 2F. I guess if the 3UR-FE was the first vehicle Id ever changed oil on, I wouldn't even be aware of how ridiculous it is.

For the record, on the 200, Im currently running Mobil 1 Extended Performance Annual Protection 20k Mile 5w-20 with the Mobil 1 Extended Performance 20k Mile Filter. And Im going 1 year/20k miles between changes.

And FYI, dont forget to change your PCV valve at least every 60k. The 3UR has a thing where they start to burn oil when those get dirty. :beer::beer:
Click to expand...
Does the oil consumption stop when the valve is changed or does it cause long term damage?
 
Oil consumption stops when valve is replaced.
 
To follow up on this, I parked on the sloped driveway and on ramps. Only drained out about 1/2 quart of oil from the filter so not to bad at all.
I did get one of these. A bit over priced but sooooooo much easier and cleaner than the little plastic piece they provide with the filters.

motivx.webp
 
Ratchey said:
To follow up on this, I parked on the sloped driveway and on ramps. Only drained out about 1/2 quart of oil from the filter so not to bad at all.
I did get one of these. A bit over priced but sooooooo much easier and cleaner than the little plastic piece they provide with the filters.

View attachment 2132760
Click to expand...

I have that same exact tool, it works great.

My routine is drop the skids, put the drain pan under the engine drain and remove the drain plug. Then I screw that into the filter housing, toss the hose into the pan, and open the valve. I often let it drain overnight. Filter is totally drained by then, never spill a drop.

Meanwhile I lower the spare to rotate the tires, grease the spare tire winch, the door hinges, and pop open the KDSS bleeders. Grease the driveshafts. Inspect the entire undercarriage and apply more Fluid Film where necessary.
 
KLF said:
grease the spare tire winch, the door hinges,
Click to expand...

I've not yet done this, but probably should. Whoever buys your rig will be getting a good unit.
 
tominboise said:
I've not yet done this, but probably should. Whoever buys your rig will be getting a good unit.
Click to expand...

You know, I have absolutely SOAKED that thing in lubricants (Tri-Flow, Fluid Film, spray lithium grease), and it STILL squeaks every time I lower and raise the spare. Drives me nuts.
 
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