What is the best way to fill fender flare holes w/o welding. I am probably going to bedliner over whatever i use to fill the holes.
Flare holes
- Thread starter bigfj62
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I put some dynomat on the backside of the holes and then filled them with bondo with fiberglass in it. Sanded it down and then sprayed it with raptor liner.
A few of the holes (lower corner of doors and some other places) were hard to get to the backside of. I just used some aluminum tape.
Ended up spraying two thick coats of the raptor liner after the first one did not look right - the color, not the liner. Sprayed the second on top of it and it looks really good. I shot it at 50psi and used about 7 bottles of liner for both coats.
A few of the holes (lower corner of doors and some other places) were hard to get to the backside of. I just used some aluminum tape.
Ended up spraying two thick coats of the raptor liner after the first one did not look right - the color, not the liner. Sprayed the second on top of it and it looks really good. I shot it at 50psi and used about 7 bottles of liner for both coats.
I used Quick Steal putty and then grinded flat.
Is the putty still holding up good?
- Thread starter
- #5
My aluminum tape monstaliner combo is still holding strong.
Aluminum tape is definitely the easiest.
But isn't there a dimple/dent at every hole?
Not on mine, but I had it sprayed professionally with linex and he put it on really thick. I was going to do it myself, but the linex guy did it for almost the same cost as the Monstaliner kit.
Yes and no. All but one. I accidentally pushed on it from the inside and pushed it through.
That should work. I actually had some 3M HVAC tape I took to the Linex place with me, and the guy didn't want to use it because it was too thin. He had some of his own metal tape there that was a lot thicker than what I had. He used it instead. Apparently, it's pretty common for even the pros to do. I didn't find out from him what brand he used.
First time I deflared I used the thin 3m tape and a herculiner kit from autozone. There was a dimple if you looked close enough, however that herculiner was VERY thin compared to professional linex.
Second 80 I deflared I just welded the holes up and used a duplicolor "perfect match" paint. My paint and body were pretty rough to begin with, though. I didn't use any bondo or anything and you can see the patched holes when the light is right.
I plan on rolling on Monstaliner. Tape still work for this situation?
Those are speed holes
I think the dimples would be cool. Kind of retro. Like the spot welds around the tub of the 40! Which, is always the first thing I look for on a 40 that has been "restored". If the spot welds have been bondo'd I just move on. It was done by someone that doesn't know 40s.
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If you don't see a dimple when you put the tape on you'll be ok with monstaliner as long as you don't push hard with the roller. Lay the tape on but don't push it down and it will be perfect.
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You can also put more than one layer of aluminum tape if you want, just don't go crazy
It's really surprising but cool and economical that the tape and liner is holding up. If it takes a shot will it pop a hole in it? Having said that I guess the repair would be super easy and cheap. I am planning on using 3M 08115 to adhere some 20 gauge to the back side of the hole. It will probably be another year until I am at that point but I would be interested to hear from anyone's experience with a similar idea.