FJ80 Starting Problems (1 Viewer)

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I drove my '92 around this afternoon on low fuel and eventually I filled it up. I made a stop after the gas station and it would not start. This problem has occurred more than once to me typically when the fuel is low, however, I definitely had fuel in it this time. A couple of mechanics walked by and started helping me, keep in mind I am no mechanic so everything seemed to go in one ear and out the other. They started seeing if there was a spark with the spark plug wiring, but there wasn't and apparently no audible noise either. One of them tested if there was pressure in the tank, there was. They both seemed to think it could've been the fuel pump or some sort of relay problem. However one of them suggested putting the car in neutral then in park again and it turned on. I am wondering if there is an underlying issue here and if anyone here could help me diagnose it.
 
Neutral Safety Switch Working? It’s on Shifter.

Wouldn’t Crank or Solenoid didn’t click on Starter?
 
did you hear a click when you turn the key? Did you verify the CEL is on when the key is in the on position?
Does this usually happen when you have driven a while and the engine is warm?
 
did you hear a click when you turn the key? Did you verify the CEL is on when the key is in the on position?
Does this usually happen when you have driven a while and the engine is warm?
It happens when I have driven it awhile never normally when it's been cold. CEL is on when the key is in the on position, there is a click.
Neutral Safety Switch Working? It’s on Shifter.

Wouldn’t Crank or Solenoid didn’t click on Starter?
Would crank, not entirely sure if the switch is working/how it would operate either way.

Keep in mind the car runs normally now. It only seems to happen when the car has been running on low fuel then I fill it up.
 
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It happens when I have driven it awhile never normally when it's been cold. CEL is on when the key is in the on position, there is a click.

Would crank, not entirely sure if the switch is working/how it would operate either way.

Keep in mind the car runs normally now. It only seems to happen when the car has been running on low fuel then I fill it up.
check your EFI relay. I am positive that is your problem. The stock EFI relay is prone to overheat due to location of the relay box in proximity of the exhaust manifold. Carry a secondary relay with you or switch to a later plastic style relay.
 
I'd start by checking your Battery Voltage.

How old is Battery?

Sounds like Starter May not be getting Adequate Amperage or Contacts in Solenoid are going Bad.
 
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I'd start by checking your Battery Voltage.

How old is Battery?

Sounds like Starter May not be getting Adequate Amperage or Contacts in Solenoid are going Bad.
Battery is brand new.
check your EFI relay. I am positive that is your problem. The stock EFI relay is prone to overheat due to location of the relay box in proximity of the exhaust manifold. Carry a secondary relay with you or switch to a later plastic style relay.
I was looking at EFI diagnostics and found that my charge lamp is not on when the key is in the on position. Leading to an issue for FL AM2. Would it be both?
 
check your EFI relay. I am positive that is your problem. The stock EFI relay is prone to overheat due to location of the relay box in proximity of the exhaust manifold. Carry a secondary relay with you or switch to a later plastic style relay.
I carry a Spare in Glovebox along with the Trouble Shooting Guide attached.

I had this same issue 2X and right after Refueling.

I'm going to Switch it out now.
 

Attachments

  • Truck No Start Troubleshooting.pdf
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I did, I found that my FL AM2 is bad due to the charging lamp not being on.
If FL AM2 was faulty, the engine would not run.
FL AM2 provides +12 to all injectors along with the igniter and ignition coil.

Are you saying that the CHARGE lamp NEVER illuminates with the key in the ON position, or doesn't illuminate ONLY when you have a problem starting the truck?
 
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If FL AM2 was faulty, the engine would not run.
FL AM2 provides +12 to all injectors along with the igniter and ignition coil.

Are you saying that the CHARGE lamp NEVER illuminates with the key in the ON position, or doesn't illuminate ONLY when you have a problem starting the truck?
I was not thinking about that one, it just never illuminates.
 
Jumping in hoping to catch some advice....

1991 fj80
All stock - no engine modifications

Three weeks ago I had a fuel issue.

I found and replaced a broken +12 wire at the plug under the rear driver's side door.

Today I was driving and the engine died suddenly. No sputter. It will crank but that is it.

I cracked the cold air injector and had what seemed like low pressure gas coming out. Not a spray but a good dribble.

I tested and do have spark.

I have charged lamp, CEL and A/T lights on.

Fuel pump is getting +12V

Any thoughts on what it could be?


I am going to start my search on MUD for injectors not operating. I am at a loss otherwise!

TYIA

BTW - this is how I broke the plug wire. It took hours to fund due to the inches of mud. IH8MUD

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I found and replaced a broken +12 wire at the plug under the rear driver's side door.

Today I was driving and the engine died suddenly. No sputter. It will crank but that is it.

I cracked the cold air injector and had what seemed like low pressure gas coming out. Not a spray but a good dribble.
The harness under the B pillar on the left is the fuel pump harness.
The banjo fitting on the cold start injector should have full fuel pump pressure while cranking the starter. If you're only getting a "dribble" while cranking the starter, then the fuel pump is not developing pressure to the rail.
 
Thank you jonheld. I will check the fittings and then check pressure.

I checked pressure while jumping F1 and B+ as I didn't have a helper last night in the target parking lot. I'll try testing while it is cranking it shouldn't make a difference though I never know.
 
Thank you jonheld. I will check the fittings and then check pressure.

I checked pressure while jumping F1 and B+ as I didn't have a helper last night in the target parking lot. I'll try testing while it is cranking it shouldn't make a difference though I never know.

I assume you mean B+ to FP (pin 8 to pin 1).
If that's the case, then the FP should run with the key in the ON position.
Fuel pressure should be 37–46 psi at the CSI banjo fitting.

CheckConnector.jpg
 
Yes. You are correct FP and B+ jumped with key on. It really did not seem like 37 - 46 psi spraying out. Ill do some more testing.

Thanks for providing the psi.

Despite the wisdom of many to only use OE I replaced my fuel pump with a Delphi last week. My old pump tested good but my buddies had everything apart trying to find the broken wire when we were stuck in the woods. I figured why not replace the OE pump while the seats are out. It is 31 yrs old.

I'll be frustrated with myself if it is the new pump and I did not go OE to save $100.

Ill do some testing and post results in the next few days.

Thanks again Jon
 
I cracked the cold air injector banjo bolt and jumped FP and B+ again just to make sure the pressure was low. Fuel just poured out as a small streem. Not even close to 37+ psi. Thinking it is the fuel pump I pulled the fuel pump back apart.

I found a fairly soft and pressure ruptured connection line. This section came new with the Delfi fuel pump. UUG! It was installed about a week before it failed.

I bought some high grade fuel line and reinstalled everything. It fired right up.

Fuel connection line rupture. Huhh!

Thanks again @jonheld for chiming in with advice. It put me on the right path.

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