FJ62 Output Shaft / Drive Gear - Destroyed

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M

minium

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Jun 16, 2010
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6
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86
Location
Bend, OR
I am posting this with the pictures as my searches on this didn't yield anything this dramatic, hopefully if you are experiencing a "shuttler" and think this is your problem that you are able to correct it before it gets this bad.

Bought my truck about 5 months ago with 205k miles on it, it had a "shutter" while power applied at 55-60mph, the last month it got noticably worse, I thought it was a u-joint and before I could prove that wrong all the splines on the tranny output shaft and teeth on the input gear sheared off completely. Here are the pictures, note the "heavy duty" gear that I could have used before the problem grew to mammoth proportions, this is the gear going into the new tranny.

I opted for the long haul option, purchased and ordered the "Rodney Extreme A440F" Transmission, billet TC and this massive new gear w/ extended splines. Banking on the anticipation of a long term investimate.
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Youre the first Ive seen this happen to! Ive heard of the splines in the gear or shaft getting really worn, but havent seen one stripped yet. Great pics!

Where did you get the gear? When I rebuilt my transfer case I followed Georg's DIY McNamara gear thread and built my own. If you sourced it form other than McNamara (like somewhere stateside), Im sure lots of guys would be interested.
 
I have heard of it happening, more than once. Mine was close to that point when I figured out what was causing the nasty CLUNK when shifting from D to R or back.

That gear in the bottom pic looks a lot like the infamous McNamara Gear, but a bit different. Here's a pic of mine, but this was purchased direct from McNamara way back in 2002:

NewGear1.jpg


New gear on the left, old one on the right with the spacer & PTO gear.
 
I am in Northern California, so I ordered the Extreme transmission, torque converter and this gear from West Coast Cruisers out of San Diego, who imported from Wholesale Automatics in Australia.

The gear was $377, shipping was all included w/ the cost of the transmission, total was about $5200 to the door, not counting the $800 core that I still have to return.
 
KLF said:
I have heard of it happening, more than once. Mine was close to that point when I figured out what was causing the nasty CLUNK when shifting from D to R or back.

That gear in the bottom pic looks a lot like the infamous McNamara Gear, but a bit different. Here's a pic of mine, but this was purchased direct from McNamara way back in 2002:

NewGear1.jpg


New gear on the left, old one on the right with the spacer & PTO gear.
Click to expand...

Don't forget that if the new gear replaces the old gear/spacer/pto gear you cant run a pto because there is no gear to drive it... there MAY be a replacement gear the is only the same length as the original plus spacer.... it would be weaker than the full length unit and stronger than the original but at least you could run a pto... :cool:
 
I had the option of getting either gear, same price. I needed to specify if I had/wanted PTO and whether it was a 32 or 34 tooth gear.

I have no intention of running a PTO drive so I went w/ out it.
 
ozwallaby said:
Don't forget that if the new gear replaces the old gear/spacer/pto gear you cant run a pto because there is no gear to drive it... there MAY be a replacement gear the is only the same length as the original plus spacer.... it would be weaker than the full length unit and stronger than the original but at least you could run a pto... :cool:
Click to expand...

Will the PTO work in a FJ62 with stock exhaust? I haven't looked at mine in a while but I thought the inside CAT was in the way. Always thought it was funny Toyota installed the PTO gear in the FJ62 but went with a spacer in the 74 and later FJ40 when up thru 78 it was a straight bolt in:hhmm:


Even though my FJ62 only has 121K miles on it I need to reseal the transfer case. When I do a McNamara Gear will go in at that time.
 
I also found it funny that it had a PTO gear. I didn't even know what a PTO gear was until I split the TCase and refferenced a schematic to tell me how to reassemble it and then googled PTO gear.

The main reason for this post was that hopefully anybody out there reading this will install that heavier duty gear before they have unreversable problems. I didn't/don't have the cash to do this project but wasn't left with many other options so I took the investimate.

Also, after reading the "How long does my tranny last" post I obviously bought a vehicle driven under harsher conditions or not properly maintained to have this substantial problem at 214k, hopefully I will be just as happy w/ the truck and transmission at 500k :o

If you have the gear, put it in, far less costly and less work that any other alternative.
 
Thanks for sharing the pictures of your failed output shaft. Lots of us have the clunk and this shows the end resulting catastrophic failure should we choose to ignore it.

For $377 I'll be doing the DIY welded version...
 
minium said:
I also found it funny that it had a PTO gear. I didn't even know what a PTO gear was until I split the TCase and refferenced a schematic to tell me how to reassemble it and then googled PTO gear.

The main reason for this post was that hopefully anybody out there reading this will install that heavier duty gear before they have unreversable problems. I didn't/don't have the cash to do this project but wasn't left with many other options so I took the investimate.

Also, after reading the "How long does my tranny last" post I obviously bought a vehicle driven under harsher conditions or not properly maintained to have this substantial problem at 214k, hopefully I will be just as happy w/ the truck and transmission at 500k :o

If you have the gear, put it in, far less costly and less work that any other alternative.
Click to expand...

I'm thinking the same way. I just received my new McNamara gear. I've been experiencing increased overheating on my 210k-mile FJ62. I've installed a large cooler, but after noticing sudden leaking from the back of the T-Case and then checking the fluid, I find that it was overfilled because the tranny is leaking to the T-Case. I suspect that when the T-Case is really full, the T-Case lube then leaks back into the tranny. Others have suggested that this can cause overheating. I'm not experiencing any shudder yet. I'm just trying to buy some time before I have to replace the tranny, so the first thing I did was put ATF in the T-Case, then hopefully in the next month or two I'll split the case, change the seals and install the McNamara gear as a precaution. I'm not experiencing any clunking yet, but from what I'm reading, what happened to you on the output shaft is inevitable, so I figured I might as well do the upgrade now.
 
I would agree, and here is some background from my standpoint and what I saw:

I bought the vehicle this year in June with 204k on the odometer. The P/O had it for 13 years as an alternate vehicle putting about 40k on it, but those miles were driven up to Tahoe from the valley w/ a 'small fishing boat'; he had installed a tranny cooler due to heat.

When I bought the rig, I did notice the slight shuttler/vibration at 55-60 range and it was minimal, I thought it was a u-joint going out that I needed to attend to. Shortly after buying the truck I bought a 2300lb Tent Trailer and hauled that around a few distant trips all including grades up to 11%, which caught me going 6 MPH uphill w/ the thing; temp was an issue. I did also overheat going through 299 from Eureka -> Redding, 3 hours up to 5k ft from see level and back down again, I drove at night in cool temps and had to pull over twice as I overheated (no trailer load).

Shortly after my last haul w/ the trailer up some grades I noticed the vibration/shutter never got more prominate, but it would kick in at much lower speeds, then I was actually en route in town to buy 2 U-Joints when it all went out.

I was at a disadvantage having never owned or driven any 60 series until I bought this one, test drove it once and brought it home. I didn't know the kinks it would have and chaulked the vibration up to it being 20 years old w/ 200k+

I won't be ignoring anymore warrning signs in the future. I also bought the Rodney recomended Allison TranSynd fluid ($233 *cough*) that will be going into the new tranny later this week when we get it hoisted back up.
 
Yeah, I flushed and filled mine with Amsoil Syn about nine months ago, it was over $200. Damn it, I think I ruined that precious stuff with contamination from the T-Case, so I'm going to bit the bullet and buy another batch of Amsoil or the Allison after I change the seals. I wonder if I'm doing the right thing dumping this much money in an old tranny. I'm afraid that I may be on my last legs, but the truck runs and shifts so well with no noises or shudder, so I'm hoping that it's still in reasonable condition before I have to replace it.
 
I know this is an old thread, but pretty sure this is what's plaguing me at the moment as well.. cruising along 60mph or so, let off the gas, get back on it.... really bad shuttering. i have to sort of play with the accelerator to make it stop.

i do NOT have the park to reverse clunk or reverse to drive clunk like i've read about in other threads.

is this worth proactively addressing? if so, what exactly should be done? thanks for any advice-
 
tstockto said:
I know this is an old thread, but pretty sure this is what's plaguing me at the moment as well.. cruising along 60mph or so, let off the gas, get back on it.... really bad shuttering. i have to sort of play with the accelerator to make it stop.

i do NOT have the park to reverse clunk or reverse to drive clunk like i've read about in other threads.

is this worth proactively addressing? if so, what exactly should be done? thanks for any advice-
Click to expand...
I’m in no way an expert on the subject but that sounds more like an issue with the torque converter and lockup. The clunk the OP had is caused by play in the gear and output shaft splines, could be a handful of other things but the OP’s clunk was that guessing from the end failure anyways.
 
$377 is a steal for that gear...
 
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