FJ62 - Delete the LSPV for less then $2

[cruisermatt]

DISCLAIMER/FOREWARNING - Modifying the brake system on a street-driven vehicle has certain legal and safety ramifications. Is this a modification that law enforcement or even a seasoned Toyota technician are likely to notice? Probably not, but this is still something to consider.

Now that we are past that, this thread is not about what an LSPV is, why you would want to get rid of it, or why a semi-truck full of nuns and kittens is going to tumble down a ravine because you modified Toyota's holy design. Just tech on how to get rid of it.

The two brake lines from the master cylinder go to these fittings, the two lines going right go towards the rear of the truck and the line on the left go towards the front. As you can see on the three-way connector, there is a line with a nice crimp that I put it in. That is the return line for the LSPV. Undo just this fitting for now. Our first step is going to be plugging this fitting. Yes, you can buy the fitting from an FJ60 which is what I'd recommend, but that makes this more then a $2 mod .

 

[cruisermatt]

Cut the line where indicated from the previous picture and take the 1" section of brake line and the fitting to the workbench. Since the fitting doesn't seal, the flare in the line does, we will need a short flare. I cut of the flare with about 1/4" of line past it, you don't want the line to protrude from the back of the fitting. Then, weld up the rear hole in the fitting. You now have your plug. Also, make sure to thoroughly clean up these parts afterwards, you don't want to get any debris in your brake system.

 

[cruisermatt]

After that, pull out the rest of the rest frame-mounted brake lines and LSPV. Use lengths from both long lines to make on line going straight the rear axle soft line from the 90-degree fitting in the engine bay. You should need a single M10x1.00 double-female connector, this is also the only purchase I made during this project, should be available at any corner parts store. Then put the line back using all the original frame mounts, nice and easy. All done! Shouldn't take more then two hours including setting the welder up, flaring lines, beer, etc.

(I still need to take my rearmost line out and flare it where the connector is, and install the fitting)

 

[bentonrover]

Interesting

 

[Output Shaft]

Since 99% of the 62s on the street today are incapable of skidding on dry pavement anyway, getting rid of the LSPV is a non issue as far as safety goes. 60s don't even have them.

Nice info.

 

[cruisermatt]

It's nice to be in control, especially if you have further mods like I do (FZJ80 rear discs). Plus the LSPV is ineffective as soon as you do a suspension lift. Without any valve I can lock up the rears, which is is a bit scary especially in the rain on mud tires, so I will be installing one of these or something like it. Not getting too fancy as I have future hydroboost plans anyways.

 

[wheelin62]

It's nice to be in control, especially if you have further mods like I do (FZJ80 rear discs). Plus the LSPV is ineffective as soon as you do a suspension lift. Without any valve I can lock up the rears, which is is a bit scary especially in the rain on mud tires, so I will be installing one of these or something like it. Not getting too fancy as I have future hydroboost plans anyways.

View attachment 1257351

I have the same proportion valve. Since I deleted my LSPV years ago, I'll be adding this in for my loss of rear weight.

 

[Komanche]

FZJ80 rear discs

could you tell me more please? Buildup?

 

[cruisermatt]

Somewhere in here.

Cruisermatt's FJ62 Build-up

 

[Komanche]

Thanks

 

[60Works]

City Racer now carries new 60 proportioning valves. Might be an option instead of using the Wilwood.

Brake Proportioning Valve for '81 to '87 Land Cruiser FJ40 FJ60

 

[Spook50]

It's nice to be in control, especially if you have further mods like I do (FZJ80 rear discs). Plus the LSPV is ineffective as soon as you do a suspension lift. Without any valve I can lock up the rears, which is is a bit scary especially in the rain on mud tires, so I will be installing one of these or something like it. Not getting too fancy as I have future hydroboost plans anyways.

View attachment 1257351

That's what I use. 4Runner calipers up front, and Monte Carlo calipers on Chevy rotors in the back. Eventually I want to put an FZJ80 rear axle on the back and do the Tundra brakes up front. I run a 1 1/8" bore MC so I hopefully won't have too much pedal travel once I do that, but we'll see.

Complete FZJ80 rear ends are getting harder and harder to find I've noticed. I should just have @orangefj45 source one, rebuild it, throw in a Harrop locker then drive my 62 to his shop in Stockton and have him do me up. While I'm there we could talk about engine conversions

 

[cruisermatt]

That's what I use. 4Runner calipers up front, and Monte Carlo calipers on Chevy rotors in the back. Eventually I want to put an FZJ80 rear axle on the back and do the Tundra brakes up front. I run a 1 1/8" bore MC so I hopefully won't have too much pedal travel once I do that, but we'll see.

Complete FZJ80 rear ends are getting harder and harder to find I've noticed. I should just have @orangefj45 source one, rebuild it, throw in a Harrop locker then drive my 62 to his shop in Stockton and have him do me up. While I'm there we could talk about engine conversions

1-1/8 should be perfect for that future setup.
And yes they are getting rare. I have started to stash a few of them in the backyard.

 

[Skniper]

It's nice to be in control, especially if you have further mods like I do (FZJ80 rear discs). Plus the LSPV is ineffective as soon as you do a suspension lift. Without any valve I can lock up the rears, which is is a bit scary especially in the rain on mud tires, so I will be installing one of these or something like it. Not getting too fancy as I have future hydroboost plans anyways.

View attachment 1257351

Not the point of your thread, but when you lift the vehicle the LSPV needs to be lifted a proportional amount with a spacer to be effective.
I could tell when my lspv was overworking or underworking based on the different conditions of my worn or new suspensions. What stops better....a 60 or a 62? Meh, who knows.

Either way, interesting info.

 

[cruisermatt]

Not the point of your thread, but when you lift the vehicle the LSPV needs to be lifted a proportional amount with a spacer to be effective.
I could tell when my lspv was overworking or underworking based on the different conditions of my worn or new suspensions. What stops better....a 60 or a 62? Meh, who knows.

Either way, interesting info.

You are correct, and that’s fine for a regular 2” lifted 60... this thread is not really aimed at those owners. My flexy suspension would rip the LSPV off the frame if I still had it.

 

[Adam Scherm]

@cruisermatt sorry to revive this old thread. But I’m trying to confirm something before I yank my stuff out.

In this pic, your saying plug the port that is circled in red? And then make a new line (re-use old long hard line) from the port circled in yellow, all the way back to the rear soft line?

I just got the Summit adjustable prop valve, but now don’t know what port the lines should run to? After the prop valve is mounted off the MC, where are the hard lines running to?

 

[Cruzerman]

I'm curious if the proportioning valve is needed? I only ask because on my FZJ80, I deleted the ABS and the LSPV and didn't use any kind of proportioning valve. I am very happy with the brakes on that rig. I understand that the FZJ80 has rear disks, but am wondering if perhaps these rigs don't need the valve either?

 

[cruisermatt]

I'm curious if the proportioning valve is needed? I only ask because on my FZJ80, I deleted the ABS and the LSPV and didn't use any kind of proportioning valve. I am very happy with the brakes on that rig. I understand that the FZJ80 has rear disks, but am wondering if perhaps these rigs don't need the valve either?

I needed a proportioning valve especially after I went to rear discs. Id wager it’s not really issue on an 80 as they are heavier and also might not experience as much nose dive under braking (less dive means more weight on rear axle which means less chance of locking rear brakes up)

 

[cruisermatt]

@cruisermatt sorry to revive this old thread. But I’m trying to confirm something before I yank my stuff out.

In this pic, your saying plug the port that is circled in red? And then make a new line (re-use old long hard line) from the port circled in yellow, all the way back to the rear soft line?

I just got the Summit adjustable prop valve, but now don’t know what port the lines should run to? After the prop valve is mounted off the MC, where are the hard lines running to?

It’s simple. You want a single line from each master cylinder port to either the front axle, or the rear axle. Proportioning valve gets plumbed into the rear circuit.
Just make sure you pay attention to which master cylinder port goes to which axle.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

The wilwood valve I bought with M10x1.0mm is bubble flare. If I had to do it again I would have bought the U.S imperial threads version which would have kept the inverted flare (same tool) instead of the need for the metric ISO bubble flaring tool. Not an issue if you have a good master flare tool set that covers everything.