FJ62 Alternator

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I went to the shop this morning. They said the alternator is definitely not charging. Parts, which are only ordered on Wednesdays, are at least several days away. I hate having to make quick decisions! Initially I had wanted to have mine fixed locally, but I decided right then to go with a remanufactured unit from Cruiser Dan. I'll have a few days wait for the remanufactured unit because Dan doesn't stock it. Hopefully I will have it by the weekend. I'll post up results later.

Getting the alternator out, as you know, is no small matter! Here's a pic with it out. Big hole down there under the smog pump, where that thing sits:
Alt 001.webp
 
Cruiserdrew said:
Dang...that's quite an epidemic of alternators!
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I agree; it is as though these things all got together and decided to fail all at once! :confused:
 
Cruiserdrew said:
You know, I asked the guy about rewinding for higher output. He discouraged that, since it makes the diodes in the rectifier work harder and run hotter. He said he could do itt, but clearly did not want to. If you want a higher output unit, just run a bigger GM alternator. There is a great thread about a 140 amp GM alternator that almost bolts up.
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FWIW - Northwest Power Products (aka Wrangler NW) built me a 175 amp unit based on a stock 3FE alt case using all new parts (including the case). It is a stock bolt in with no mods necessary (other than requiring upgraded wiring to the batteries - I was already running 1/0 gauge cables though). NW Power Products saw no problem or durability issues with this level of power from a stock case. I worked with Stan, who was extremely knowledgable. I've got about 17,000 miles on this unit. It drives my dual SPAL electric radiator fans, remote tranny cooler fan, aux lights, dual batteries and other electronic upgrades without any issues. It also has better low rpm output than stock. Not as much as I want but much better (and probably about as good as it gets for a v-belt based pulley).

I ran a Mechman Ford 175 amp unit for awhile but it didn't last. The custom mount was a PITA and I think that I killed the bearings by repeatedly tightening (probably overtightening) the belts.
 
Moby said:
FWIW - Northwest Power Products (aka Wrangler NW) built me a 175 amp unit based on a stock 3FE alt case using all new parts (including the case). It is a stock bolt in . . . .
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That sounds great. Do you have a double battery set-up?
 
Rigger said:
Getting the alternator out, as you know, is no small matter! Here's a pic with it out. Big hole down there under the smog pump, where that thing sits:
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It's alot easier if you don't have a smog pump in the way :D

Takes me about 10 minutes to get it out, and 15-20 to get it in (cause of having to line up the holes on the bracket).

Joel, that sounds frackin beefy. Do you know if they used a Denso voltage regulator in it? With my past experiences, I'm a devoted Denso customer now. How much did it cost you? I still have an OEM 80A that sounds tempting to have them upgrade for me, especially with future lighting and winch plans.
 
Rigger said:
That sounds great. Do you have a double battery set-up?
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Yes, I have a dual battery setup using a Painless 250 amp system and 1/0 cables. I do not rely on any stock wiring for the alternator to battery paths. I run the positive cable from the alternator directly to the Painless solenoid (and then to the batteries from there) and I run ground cables from both batteries directly to the alternator's case.
 
Spook50 said:
Joel, that sounds frackin beefy. Do you know if they used a Denso voltage regulator in it? With my past experiences, I'm a devoted Denso customer now. How much did it cost you? I still have an OEM 80A that sounds tempting to have them upgrade for me, especially with future lighting and winch plans.
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I couldn't tell you. Call NW Power Products and see if Stan is still there (I think that was his name, it's been around 3 years now).

I don't remember the price but it was not cheap :D I want to say in the $400 range?
 
Cruiser Dan sent me a remanufactured Toyota alternator. It arrived today, and I installed it this evening. :wrench: It works great.

On the FJ62's, there is a short steel tubular arm that supports the smog pump. It connects down to the block, near the alternator. This arm installs correctly ONLY ONE way. If you install it incorrectly, it rubs against the alternator fins and makes an awful racket that scares the wits out of you when you start the truck. :eek: Ask me how I know this. :o :whoops:

Truck runs great. Took the :princess: to the grocery store after I put it all back together.
 
cruiser88 said:
:rolleyes:and my battery went and that culprit was the ignition switch

:Dits a funny feeling when you turn the car off and the heat keeps running
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Should've bought a cruiser :doh:

:flipoff2:





BTW, your rad is awesome, haven't seen the heat crawl up at all since I put it in this summer.
 
Hey Rigger or CruiserDrew, is there any chance that you had an idle stumble (in drive) as a sign leading up to your alternator going bad? I have been chasing this gremlin through a hundred different things and reading this thread I realize that I have left the lights on several times recently and wonder if I have inadvertantly burned it out.

Thanks
 
Mine went out while I was on Interstate 90, doing 70 mph. No engine stumble, just the two lights in the dash came on. The truck kept on strokin'.
 
When mine went out 2 or 3 winters ago, it would crap out intermittently, then work fine. Worked fine for a month or two, then crapped out again a couple days before a 13 hour highway trip in January. Decided it was time to replace it then. Truck still ran fine on battery alone while I drove around to source a replacement, just left all the extra loads off of it.
 
No stumble or running problems. It was intermittent, then just would not charge.
 
Anyone know of a place that can do this kind of rebuilding in the Los Angeles/Orange County/San Fernando area?
 
Just had the same thing happen to me- Brake light and Battery light come on- for the last month I had noticed that the voltmeter was sitting a little lower than usual but I had just serviced the battery level so I figured that was it.

Anyway read Mud and figured out was going on- so like any pro wrench would do I went out and stomped on the gas- light went out at about 3500 rpm. Fine on the drive to work, about 20 miles. Lights came on again on the off ramp, stomped on the gas again- lights out.

Time to find an new alternator. I am going to pull my AC compressor this weekend, well dealer mechanic is, I dont/ cant want to mess with AC. Seems to be good timing.
 
Never mind the over rev procedure- didnt work for the drive home. Stopped by NAPA- Alternator shot. Cruiser Dan comes through with a Toyota alternator for 190 including core charge.
 
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