FJ60 Smog touble

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C

Chris Rapp

Joined
Dec 14, 2016
Threads
19
Messages
107
Location
Surprise AZ
I'm really at a loss. Finally got this thing running and need smog to register the first time. First test failed with HC@8.46 passing is 4.0, CO@259 passing 40, CO2@439. Changed timing, cat converter, has new plugs and wires and fuel pump was leaking. Retest was only a little better HC@7.8, CO@247, CO2@280.

I understand the distributor is vacuum advance but does it have centrifugal as well? It advances without the vacuum lines hooked up. Also noticed 4 vacuum lines just hanging next to cooling t-stat housing and sensors broken. First what are they called and what do they do? How do I test the charcoal canister and solenoid? Not keeping OEM. Thanks for any help.
 
Plug those dangling hoses near the t-stat housing.

High CO is usually caused by insufficient oxygen getting pumped into the exhaust from the air pump. Usually an air injection issue.

Temporarily remove the big air pump intake hose connected the the driver's side air cleaner housing while the engine is running and verify that it's sucking strong. Reconnect. (#1 in pic)

Temporarily remove the big bypass hose that's connected to the passenger side of the air cleaner housing and make sure no air is being pumped out of it. Reconnect. (#2 in pic)

Don't worry about the timing unless the engine is pinging. Retarded timing will lower emissions. The distributor has centrifugal advance as well as vacuum advance.

Read THIS thread.

image.webp
 
Output Shaft said:
Plug those dangling hoses near the t-stat housing.

High CO is usually caused by insufficient oxygen getting pumped into the exhaust from the air pump. Usually an air injection issue.

Temporarily remove the big air pump intake hose connected the the driver's side air cleaner housing while the engine is running and verify that it's sucking strong. Reconnect. (#1 in pic)

Temporarily remove the big bypass hose that's connected to the passenger side of the air cleaner housing and make sure no air is being pumped out of it. Reconnect. (#2 in pic)

Don't worry about the timing unless the engine is pinging. Retarded timing will lower emissions. The distributor has centrifugal advance as well as vacuum advance.

Read THIS thread.

View attachment 1377713
Click to expand...
Thanks. I have to add at idle all readings pass. I did check the inlet side of the air pump and it is sucking but how strong should it be. When I put my hand over it, it pull it in and you tell the pump was working harder. Didn't check the out let.
 
Update so far. Both check valves are working correctly. That vacuum line that was disconnected switches the valve from exhaust header to lower exhaust pipe. It was feeding the header. With it hooked up its going to lower exhaust. Does it make that big of a difference? A good amount of air flow is present but how much is necessary?
 
Does AZ measure %O2 on the test? The %O2 will almost always point to whether or not the air pump is doing what it should.


At 1000 rpm fast idle, the amount of suction you should feel with your hand on the air pump intake hose (that normally connects to the D side air cleaner) isn't super strong like a vacuum cleaner, but when you put your hand over the hose to block it, the impression (thought) should be that "yeah, it's sucking air pretty good...there's definitely air flow going through the system.

I know that sounds pretty vague, but that was my impression when I did it.

Don't worry about the charcoal canister. They don't test it. Just make sure that the vent hose from the canister that leads to the gas tank vapor vent pipe on the firewall nearby has a tight fit on the gas tank vapor pipe. They DO test that when the tank is pressurized to see if there are any vapor leaks.

If the air pump is original it should be replaced ASAP even if it is pumping some air now. Old ones can be ticking time bombs. They can seize, break the belt (which drives the water pump) and take the whole engine down with it if you're hauling down the freeway and not staring at the temperature gauge.
 
Output Shaft said:
Does AZ measure %O2 on the test? The %O2 will almost always point to whether or not the air pump is doing what it should.


At 1000 rpm fast idle, the amount of suction you should feel with your hand on the air pump intake hose (that normally connects to the D side air cleaner) isn't super strong like a vacuum cleaner, but when you put your hand over the hose to block it, the impression (thought) should be that "yeah, it's sucking air pretty good...there's definitely air flow going through the system.

I know that sounds pretty vague, but that was my impression when I did it.

Don't worry about the charcoal canister. They don't test it. Just make sure that the vent hose from the canister that leads to the gas tank vapor vent pipe on the firewall nearby has a tight fit on the gas tank vapor pipe. They DO test that when the tank is pressurized to see if there are any vapor leaks.

If the air pump is original it should be replaced ASAP even if it is pumping some air now. Old ones can be ticking time bombs. They can seize, break the belt (which drives the water pump) and take the whole engine down with it if you're hauling down the freeway and not staring at the temperature gauge.
Click to expand...

I beleive it's original. My parents can't remember what they had done. 146k. Pump moves a good amount of air. CO & CO2 high. After reconnecting the vacuum line switched off manifold supply and does not come on during acceleration. High readings at higher rpm.
 
Output Shaft said:
Then just plumb the air pump like the link above and be done with it. Bypassing the air control valve.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Didn't see the PDF attachment on that, this will help a lot. Ya broke one of the solinoid valves going th the control valve trying to get hoses off, EGR temp sensors gone too.
 
To pass smog should I jump on the 2 temp sensors that mount to the t-stat housing showing hot engine or leave them plugged closed?
 
The top sensor is for EGR. It lets the EGR work when the engine is warm and turns it off when the engine is cold (cold start).

They should definitely be connected to their hoses. Otherwise the EGR valve won't work, unless those two vac hoses that connect to it are connected together.

Be really careful with the plastic pipe nipples on those two BVSV sensors. They are very brittle and can snap off easily. The EGR BVSV is no longer available.
 
Output Shaft said:
The top sensor is for EGR. It lets the EGR work when the engine is warm and turns it off when the engine is cold (cold start).

They should definitely be connected to their hoses. Otherwise the EGR valve won't work, unless those two vac hoses that connect to it are connected together.

Be really careful with the plastic pipe nipples on those two BVSV sensors. They are very brittle and can snap off easily. The EGR BVSV is no longer available.
Click to expand...
They're already broken. Found hoses just dangling there.
 
Then connect the upper vac hoses that lead to the BVSV together in a loop. That's the "warm mode". Warm up the engine for at least 5 minutes before driving it, otherwise the EGR will make the engine sputter on acceleration... Until the engine warms up.

But seeing that you should always warm up the engine a bit before driving it anyway. No big deal
 
Output Shaft said:
The EGR BVSV is no longer available.
Click to expand...

The colors are just different temperatures. If you substitute a different one that is available it will still work, just not exactly as designed.
 
Fast Eddy said:
What jets are in the carb? A federal primary jet is way too big for CA smog. Not sure what your limits are.
Click to expand...

I thought stock but am trying to see if work was done to it. Are they changeable? This cruiser was bought new in 84 and my parents finally gave it to me in 2015. They used a local mechanic for repairs. Not too sure about him though. Limits are HC 4 and CO 40. Last run HC@6.5 and CO@200.
 
All idle readings have been good. Only under higher RPM the readings spike up. Also smells like exhaust leak under the hood after running warm for awhile, no change in noise or smoke.
 
While looking for exhaust leak found EGR tube off exhaust is really loose. That can't help but how by how much?
 
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