Build FJ60 1-ton Superduty build

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It probably wouldn't hurt.... I could also use the dimension of the distance from the pivot point to the booster rod & from the pivot point to the bottom of the pedal. Then the distance of the deal to the floor... or you could drop by my office on your way home & I could get that info ;)

Thanks
 
I'll just stop on by ;)
 
Well its been ahwhile since my last update. I have the whole doubler rebuilt & together, clocked & installed in the truck. Last night I finished the cross member. This is one HEAVY, long combo (probably 250lbs+).

The crossmember is built using 1-1/4" schedule 40 pipe using fj60 spring bushings at the frame. It mounts to 3 points; the trans adapter, the doubler adapter & the side of the 205. hopefully its strong enough to hold the combo firmly without bending. I need to replace the rubber bushings in the motor mounts with Poly to hopefully sychronize the engine/ trans combo movement.

Anyone know where to get Poly bushing to fit the crappy AA motor mounts?

The 205 is tucked to within 1/4" of the body (after clearancing of about 1" couretesy of my BFH) & the 203 hangs below the frame by 4". I would have had to cut the body to get it any higher.

The front driveshaft is going to be a HAD 1-ton CV @ 42" long & the rear is the same but only 29" due to the long pinion on the Sterling & the long drive train. one thing I found out, is that the Sterling is passenger offset by about 1.5" (roughly 3 degrees) so hopefully it will not give me a vibration.

Now I need to pull everything out & clean things up. Then I need to fab tripple shifters since the trans is costing 2x what I had anticipated ($1150, so prefabbed cable shifters will be out of the question).

I'll also be pulling the Sterling to clean it up & install the detroit.

I almost have the steering together & I should be able to post pics tommorrow. its pretty funky (the same as lifted Superdutys) but should work ok. This is the area where balljoint 60's suck because ther is no real reliable way to get highsteer. Tera makes some knuckles that may work but they are $800+, for that price I'd buy another 60 & install the parts on my axle from the 'C's" out.

Here's the pics:
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DSC02181.webp
 
Nice pipe :D
 
Here's a pic of my front Diff slider... Err a Tie rod :D.

the drag link is pretty steep but is not as bad as it looks since it has the bend in it. all of the parts are VERY solid so I don't think I'll have a problem with bending but bump steer will hopefully be negligible. You can see the custom link (1"X16 LH & RH threads) that Mace's buddy built for me, Very beefy & nice. I still owe him bigtime!

I was pretty worried about the geometry but there are Superdutys all over town with 6" lifts that have the same geometry & low tie rod so I think I'll be ok.

Unfortunaly there is no good way to get highsteer on balljoints 60's so some day I may have to convert over to kingpin.

Let me know what you guys think!

I have the shifters together & figured out a way to have a mechanical linkage tripple shifter on the passenger side with driver side linkages. I build it all with too light of componenants so I'll be rebuilding much beefier this weekend. I should be able to post pics next week.
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Nice shiny linky thing :)
 
Got the shifters together last night. Since I wanted to keep my shifters on the passenger side, this is what I came up with.

Its built using the following:

5/8" rod for the shifter arms welded to machined 5/8" plate that bolts to the 3/4" rod that I used for pivots. The pivots are made using 3/4" schedule 40 (I love pipe :D) bored to 7/8" with oil impregenated bronze bushings. The links are made with 3/8" rod ends and the mounting plate is made of 1/4" plate cut on the plasma to bolt to the 208 adapter.

They work flawlessly and are super strong so I should not have any problems later. I may have to massage the trans hump to clear everything.

Should have the rebuilt trans & everything bolted in by tomorrow or Monday, then its time to install the Detroit in the Sterling.

in total it will cost around $150 in parts (I screwed up and had to redo it all to make it stronger) instead of the $450+ for a cable shifter setup.
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Nice :)
 
BTW, thanks for letting me come over.

Annie was so impressed with your plasma she got me one for Xmas :D
 
Single voltage parker.

He gave me the scratch and dent price on a brand spankin new one...

I am tired of moving welder/thingies all over the place.
:)
 
I like the fabwork on the shifters. I might be missing something in the pic but are you supporting the handlever end of them at all? If not is that part of the reason for the beefier material on the redesign? I have to do a similar setup with my TH350/203/Ford205 to get my shifters where I want them. I hope to end up on the passenger side of the trans hump with room for an Art Carr style shifter. Nice work, keep it up.
 
Hank said:
I like the fabwork on the shifters. I might be missing something in the pic but are you supporting the handlever end of them at all? If not is that part of the reason for the beefier material on the redesign? I have to do a similar setup with my TH350/203/Ford205 to get my shifters where I want them. I hope to end up on the passenger side of the trans hump with room for an Art Carr style shifter. Nice work, keep it up.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the compliments.

I used my plasma to cut out a piece of 1/4" plate that bolts the the face of the adapter where it bolts to the 203. Then welded a flat plate on top of that to create a "T". It is very rigid & supports the full length of pipe. Fff the top of my head I cannot remember exactly how the TH350 adapter mounts to the 203 so I'm not sure it you could make it work exactly how I have it. If I had more time (leaving in a few minuites) I'd go out to the shed & look at hte TH350 adapter I have out there.

The main reason for the beefier material was the connection of the shifter handle to the 1/2" pivot rod I was using. It was no rigid enough & I was afraid if I welded the joint I would never be able to change the bushing and would most likely kill the bushings from the heat. also the shifter arms were 1/2" rod and had too much deflection causing a spring effect when shifting that would tend to over shift. I would definately not go any smaller than what I ended up with.

This setup worked great & ended up clearing the trans hump fine. Now I have to order a shifter boot & custom bend the shifters to how I like them.

last week I installed the newly rebuilt trans & doubler combo & pulled the sterling to install a detroit. I'm coming down with a cold so I'll probably be putting the rear axle back in next week. I should have the drive shafts by the end of next week, then all thats left to do is run new brake lines, exhaust, finish up my brakes & about a million small things & she'll be running.... I can finally see the light at the end of the tunnel!
 
After taking 1.5 weeks off for a cold then a nasty ear infection I got back to work on the cruiser. I got the rear axle permanently bolted under the cruiser & then went about tweeking the shifters to work well with the interior. I used the JB Fab triple shifter boot & stainless shifter knobs. Heres a pic of everything installed, I like how it turned out:
Shifters.webp
 
The tall shifter on the left controls the front output, the middle controls the rear output, & the short one on the right controls the doubler.

I should be getting the shafts back from Jess next week, then I have a bunch of cleanup work to do, run brake lines, and a bunch of other misc. thing then its off to get the exhaust done. I should be ready to go in a few weeks.
 
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