- Thread starter
- #21
I’m thinking that because the rear cylinder on the RH rear wheel was not hooked up hydraulicly, this started the leak from the front cylinder on the RH rear wheel.
Fj45 wheel cylinders
- Thread starter DJ45
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I believe the R (and L) were to indicate which side of the vehicle they went on to ensure proper orientation. Do you have a FSM? It shows that orientation.
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- #23
I do have a manual I got from Specter a few years ago. It doesn’t give me year coverage. It shows all the wheel cylinders for the LPB at 1 1/8” bores.
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- #25
Indeed a wealth of information.
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- #27
Yes sir. I’ll have to read it again. Thanks for pointing it out. What I really want to know is what size bore is factory for the ‘67. I’m going to call Spector to see if they can shed some light on that. The Chassis and Body manual, I got from them, does not say what years it covers. It just states that the front and rear cylinders are 28.5 mm, or 1 1/8”. It may not make any difference, but I want this truck to be as factory as possible. I’m going to pull the RH rear back cylinder, the one that’s not hooked up hydraulicly, and see if it will come apart. So I can compare sizes. It’s a ‘67. Who knows what’s is on this truck. And if it’s correct. The cylinder cups that came out of the first cylinder I disassembled. Fit a Toyota Crown. Maybe they are the same?
Yes. Stock is 1 1/8” both ends.
@cruiseroutfit and I decided to do 1 1/8” front and 1” rear on mine since it was not going to run around loaded up.
I think I covered all that in the thread. Again. I waded into that deal blind and lots of folks got me through it. It’s all documented
@cruiseroutfit and I decided to do 1 1/8” front and 1” rear on mine since it was not going to run around loaded up.
I think I covered all that in the thread. Again. I waded into that deal blind and lots of folks got me through it. It’s all documented
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- #29
I have been reading your thread off and on since Friday. Still have a few pages to finish. There is a lot that you have done to Goat that I will have to do to mine down the road. I will be referring back a lot. Thanks for documenting so much.
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- #31
I am in the early stages of figuring out what to do. My plan is to remove all of the rear cylinders and see what I have and what’s reusable. If I need all of them, just wondering, has anyone updated the rear brakes by using later model backing plates and whatever else that would require?
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- #32
Ok, looks like when going from period correct wheel cylinders, 67 fj45, to like 6/76-7/80, you need to change 9mm brake nut to 10 mm. Does anyone know what thread size that is? Or is this the thread size?
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This is the size.
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- #34
Thanks cult45. Here’s my update. All 4 of my rear cylinders. Are 1 inch bores. All 4, I believe, are marked w/the old Toyota mark. What did they come off of in order to get cylinder kits? What do I measure for the 9mm vs 10mm size? It does not make since to me to measure the brake line nut. They do not thread into the cylinders. Don’t they thread into the banjo bolts, one at the RH rear cylinder? The other at the LH rear cylinder? My RH rear cylinder is not hooked up hydraulicly because the banjo bolt is broke off in that cylinder. I used a 10mm flair nut wrench to, break off, the supply line to the LH rear cylinder.
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- #35
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- #36
The supply line on the RH rear actually went to the front cylinder .
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- #37
This is a pic of the rear LH rear banjo bolt. The supply line nut is on the right side. The banjo fitting/line goes from this bolt to the front cylinder on the LH rear wheel. I’m assuming the rear RH side is the same set up. It had the supply line going to the front cylinder on the rear RH side. The rear RH rear cylinder is not being used because of the banjo bolt is broke off in the cylinder. Does this set up seam stock, except for the mess on the right rear? Is the 9mm x 1.0 <8/71 vs 10mm x 1.0 >9/71 the measurement of the male threads on the banjo bolts? The info I read stated this measurement was for the brake pipe nuts, if you were updating to later wheel cylinders. But the brake pipe nuts do not attach to the cylinders. They attach to the banjo bolts. So what’s the difference in early vs late cylinders?
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- #38
A light bulb just turned on. Could this be i? When you go with later wheel cylinders, you must change the banjo bolt. Thus making you change the brake pipe nuts. I think that’s it. Early cylinders have 11mm threaded holes for the banjo bolt. Late cylinders have 10mm holes for the banjo bolt. Is this correct?
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- #39
Well that’s not right. The 9/71 and later wheel cylinders don’t use banjo bolts! So if I go that route, I’ll need to split the fluid feed line at each rear wheel. Does anyone have pics of the original and later set ups?
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- #40