Fj45 + hzj80 + ls1

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while the cab is off i looked at the shifter. It is about 150mm too far back so something has to be done.

I have been thinking on the best way to mod it and move it forward, but utilising the factory shifter and moving it forward 150mm was just too complicated.

So I decided to make a twin stick setup, basically copying the Advanced Adapters sticks or Valey Hybrids setup for the H55f.

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The 20cent coin is my preferred radius when im fabbing lol 10 cent comes out in tighter situations!
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Pivot point moved forward 150mm. might need to strong back that 5mm plate although there wont be any sideways force on it since the shifters will just be forward back now.

THe other thing that concerns me is wether the FJ45 radiator can cool the LS1 and 4l60E.

There are alloy Mustang radiators all over ebay for less than $170. Im sure they are cheap chinese jobs but they should be able to cool the LS1?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FORD-Fal..._Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a85218224&_uhb=1

Ideally i wanted something OEM toyota but i just cant find anything the right size, with auto cooler, and the right inlet/outlet position. HZJ75 is a good size, but no auto cooler and outlets are wrong...

theres a couple hilux ones that would work, but there from small 4cyl petrol powered hilux's or surf's and i dont think they have the capacity?
 
I converted my HT six from manual to auto and went with a separate cooler. It was $100+ from Super Cheap for a nicely TIG'd up alloy one that I mounted up front. No pics sorry, but kept the traumatic cool. Then you can try your HZJ75 rad.
 
I converted my HT six from manual to auto and went with a separate cooler. It was $100+ from Super Cheap for a nicely TIG'd up alloy one that I mounted up front. No pics sorry, but kept the traumatic cool. Then you can try your HZJ75 rad.

My original plan was to keep the FJ45 radiator and just put the biggest auto cooler infront of it i can find.

This must be the one your talking about, but $159 is alot when you consider i can get a complete mustang 3row alloy radiator for $155.

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/on...-4Wd-679.aspx?pid=305359&menuFrom=50505#Cross

I have considered getting the FJ45 rad modified with a full width bottom tank and a auto cooler added to it, but that means if i ever need a replacement radiator the process is alot more involved and expensive than just ordering another OEM or mass made radiator.
 
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picked up some 50x25mm bar and put my pedestal drill to work.

Just need to pickup a 19mm bit from my old man to make the pivot holes larger which will take the toyota OEM pivot bushes.
 
WOW!! Amazing skills!!!
If I were to do another build, it would be EXACTLY this, minus the RHD conversion. Can't wait to see how this comes out!! Beautiful, so far!

Keith
 
Yeah mine was rectangular, but had all the same mounting hardware, so I think it was a Davies Craig one. Either way it should be enough. Personally I'd add a trans cooler to every auto I have.

Nice build too Shadow. Though you seem to have stolen my idea.. ;)
 
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Its great having an old man with a full morse taper drill bit selection.
3/4 is 19.05mm which is perfect for the oem nylon pivot bushes.

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Thats 14mm rod, need to do some bending but I think some heat will be required.
 
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THe heim joint ontop of the pivot block (shifts HI-N-LO) was maxed out on its travel between the bolthead and normal M10 washer. So I made some dodgy misalignment spacers out of 13mm rod I drilled a 10mm hole in on the drill press. Not the most beutiful spacers but it worked. I will grab some proper spacers on ebay.

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Bent the 14mm rod cold with my pipe bender.

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I need to strengthen the mounting plate for the pivot bolt, as it moves about 10mm sideways when you shift the 4wd/2wd lever. I will just add a 30mm plate along the top edge i think.

Then i just need to suss the bends in the shifters when the body is back on and I'm done.
 
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Added a 40mm plate to the top of the pivot mount plate, which took most of the movement out of it. just moves a few mm now.

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This is the lever arm I made for the HI-N-LO shift mechanism. I gave myself 3 threaded holes for different leverage points. The M10 bolt on the side locks up tight on the flat machined section of the shaft.

Im also going to cross drill the top shaft coming out of the case, and put a split pin through it, this will set the depth correctly and also stop the shaft dropping into the transfer case if the bolt comes loose.
 
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Wasn't happy with the arm I made for the transfer case HI-LO mechanism.

The pivot rod that comes out of the transfer case has a flat on one side, and a groove on the other.

The OEM arm uses the flat to engage the rod, and the clamping bolt shoulders into the groove on the other side. This means that even if the bolt comes loose, the rod cant fall back into the case, which would require a tear down of the transfer to rectify. i did plan on drilling the pivot rod and installing a split pin, but the rod is case hardened and a major pitta to drill in situ.

So I cut the OEM arm up and modified it to suit the forward back shifter, I plan on using a nyloc nut instead of the oem nut and spring washer.
 
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Started welding the firewall, got a bit of warping to deal with as i got a bit too trigger happy on some sections.

The 20x20 RHS frame ties the firewall into the body mount and should strengthen it in a similar way to the OEM strengthening rib that is now in the scrap.

The frame is also spacer for the 80 series booster to suit the FJ45 pedal.

Lots of grinding to make it pretty but it should be strong and fireproof.


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This is my other Cruiser. Just fitted some 35" cooper STT's on OEM steel rims. need to do a little work to make these 35's fit properly though.
 
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Nice work Shadow.
 
Anyone have pictures???? hate that these old threads lost images....

looking for ideas on pushing firewall forward for my Vera project.
 
I don't think it ever got finished. It was posted on another website but it seems to have shutdown.
 

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