Also, does anyone have a link to the vise grip method of collapsing the rivets?
FJ40 Roof Cap RIVETS
- Thread starter sandsfj40
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Holes would be an owner-modification IMHO - Uncle Toyota originally cut some "dips" in the lip at the rear to let it drain. I'd lean to welding those shut.
My vice-grips were traveling around from rig-to-rig as I no longer needed them, but I'm not sure who had them last...if you find that thread, they'd probably pass them on. My vid a few posts back shows the install/usage, or the 40-Channel has a good video as well.
Edit: looks like @derail might have em'
My vice-grips were traveling around from rig-to-rig as I no longer needed them, but I'm not sure who had them last...if you find that thread, they'd probably pass them on. My vid a few posts back shows the install/usage, or the 40-Channel has a good video as well.
Edit: looks like @derail might have em'
The top on my '72 that I bought as the second owner in '78.
RevISK
SILVER Star
I think the drain holes are a PO modification as well.
- Thread starter
- #25
Those are stock. Here is the pics of mine from a 1966 FJ40. I also checked on another roof cap I have that is attached, and they are there as well. Good luck on the re-rivet. Cant wait to hear and see how it went.
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- Thread starter
- #26
Try that one.
Also here but will have to type rivet tool into the search.
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Strange - wonder if it might be year and/or market specific? Our original-owner '76 does not have those. Seems like they'd be problematic too, as they'd be very prone to allow water-ingress between the cap and rail.
I still have @zerotreedelta 's vice grips if anyone needs them. Pm me and I'll pass them on down the line.
RevISK
SILVER Star
My 4/80 rain gutter didn’t have them.
Interesting - maybe they're a '75-back kind of thing that Toyota revised out with other changes in the 76MY upgrades.
Thanks all, great help.
Stock or not, I am leaning towards filling the holes. Hmmm
Stock or not, I am leaning towards filling the holes. Hmmm
Message sent, thx!
- Thread starter
- #33
Put me on the waiting list for the vice-grips. Say 3-6 months from now.
Dear Mud,
The post man delivered the magical rivet squeezers to me today.
Thank you @derail and @zerotreedelta
Give me a couple of weeks and then they are up for grabs.
I noticed there isn't a drill mark/ indentation where the already formed head of the rivet goes (as the original video had)
Was it left out for a reason?
I assume they work well as is?
but I was wondering if I should add that indentation to hold the head of the rivet?
The post man delivered the magical rivet squeezers to me today.
Thank you @derail and @zerotreedelta
Give me a couple of weeks and then they are up for grabs.
I noticed there isn't a drill mark/ indentation where the already formed head of the rivet goes (as the original video had)
Was it left out for a reason?
I assume they work well as is?
but I was wondering if I should add that indentation to hold the head of the rivet?
I ended up with more of a flat style rivet head by accident when I ordered from McMaster, can't recall the P/N but it was listed in the other thread if I recall. Since they were flat, I only needed one side dimpled. Not sure what others ran for rivets as they've bounced around, but that's the origin story.
Easy enough to add the second dimple if needed, I recall just using a rounded carbide.
Can see the flatter style I had in the photo.
Edit: found the P/N for reference/comparison. OEM was definitely a rounded head, I just mis-ordered and it wasn't worth swapping.
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Copy, thanks.
I have rounded head rivets.
I will do a few tests and see how they come out as is and if I can do anything non invasive to make them work
I didn't want to make changes to a tool that isn't mine without checking in.
I have rounded head rivets.
I will do a few tests and see how they come out as is and if I can do anything non invasive to make them work
I didn't want to make changes to a tool that isn't mine without checking in.
It's good to run a few rivets in some scraps anyway to get it dialed in and get a feel for things. I'm guessing a dimple wouldn't bother anyone using it for flats...dimple away as needed. 
(They're MUD's at this point, I definitely don't need them back)
(They're MUD's at this point, I definitely don't need them back)
You can put a shoe on that jaw and the put the dimple in the shoe. Or you can dimple the jaw and someone else can stick a flat shoe on the jaw. +1 for test/adjust it on some scrap of correct thickness first,
If anyone needs the rivet vice grips, I am done with them.
I did add a recess on the other side for round headed rivets. No photos of the install but all went well.
One issue I had was squeezing them too tightly trying to get the heads formed uniformly and the larger factory formed side of the rivet partially pulled through the fiberglass as some of the holes were in the area where the flat section of the glass started to curve upwards.
There were also a couple of rivet holes on the rear corners where the fiberglass was just gone and nothing for a river to grab.
Not a big deal as I also used a healthy bead of panel adhesive to hold the fiberglass to the steel, and the SEM seam sealer on top. I am confident it is solid and waterproof.
Now to fill the holes POs put in the fiberglass, sand it all down for primer and add the windshield metal back into the fiberglas.
I just added photos of my test pieces as I was fine tuning the vice grip indentations
I did add a recess on the other side for round headed rivets. No photos of the install but all went well.
One issue I had was squeezing them too tightly trying to get the heads formed uniformly and the larger factory formed side of the rivet partially pulled through the fiberglass as some of the holes were in the area where the flat section of the glass started to curve upwards.
There were also a couple of rivet holes on the rear corners where the fiberglass was just gone and nothing for a river to grab.
Not a big deal as I also used a healthy bead of panel adhesive to hold the fiberglass to the steel, and the SEM seam sealer on top. I am confident it is solid and waterproof.
Now to fill the holes POs put in the fiberglass, sand it all down for primer and add the windshield metal back into the fiberglas.
I just added photos of my test pieces as I was fine tuning the vice grip indentations
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The CCOT heads are larger than the factory ones I have removed and the lip does not offer any wiggle room. The first top I did, a 1979 one I believe, looked to have a wider flat area. It may be possible to extend the flat area to accommodate the larger heads. After I finish the metal drip edge, I will set the two pieces together and see if that is possible.
Anybody doing a gel coat on the fiberglass?
Anybody doing a gel coat on the fiberglass?