I bought a 93 fzj80 and I’m in the process of fixing the few things that needed fixing. Mainly bodywork. But the AC does not work. Previous owner said the compressor went out. I bought a compressor and dryer but the guy I bought them from said some 93s are R12 systems and some are 134. Can anyone help me figure out what I have? Toyota dealership was not much help. They said if the fill port has threads on the inside it’s 134 if threads on the outside then it’s R12. I’m not sure where the port is. If it’s on the compressor then those threads are on the inside. I’m posting pics. If anyone could take a look and let me know I would greatly appreciate it.
First time owner AC question
- Thread starter Dstngc74
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Look like 134a fittings to me.
And you might need this too:
And you might need this too:
- Thread starter
- #3
Would it be possible for someone to put 134 fittings on a R12 system? The only reason I ask is I thought when they made the switch in 93 to go from r12 to r134 they relocated the air dryer from the battery are to behind the bumper. Mine appears to be in the R12 area.
Yes, you can convert an R12 system to 134a.
Your's appears to be a standard 134a system, consider your self luck to have the drier up out of harms way.
Your's appears to be a standard 134a system, consider your self luck to have the drier up out of harms way.
- Thread starter
- #5
Is the port in the picture the high side or low side? Are they both on the compressor if so is the thing with the orange cap the low side?
- Thread starter
- #6
Also are the ports normally removable? This one comes off which makes me think there is an R12 port underneath and this is just an adapter. If it is an adapter is there any risk of refrigerant leaking if I take it off to see what’s under it?
They are both on the compressor. The Low side is on the line that comes from the firewall and into the compressor, the High side is on the tube that runs from the compressor out to the condenser in-front of the radiator. (on yours it appears to be on a fitting just to the side of the High side line)
The Low port is significantly smaller than the high port, you can tell by looking at them.
I would not remove the port, the schrader valve is in the port and if its an adapter, the original schrader valve was removed.
There should be sticker, under the hood, or on the radiator bulk-head that tells you the refrigerant used.
The Low port is significantly smaller than the high port, you can tell by looking at them.
I would not remove the port, the schrader valve is in the port and if its an adapter, the original schrader valve was removed.
There should be sticker, under the hood, or on the radiator bulk-head that tells you the refrigerant used.
Your's was originally R12. Those are adapter fittings to convert to R134a.
- Thread starter
- #9
So would I need to buy another R12 compressor and swap the adapter over?
Fj80oregon
GOLD Star
No if your system was swapped to 134a you want to go with a new 134a compressor. That’s a good thing. Are you going to recharge yourself? Or shop?
Fj80oregon
GOLD Star
What is your production date? Should be on drivers side door sticker.
Just as an FYI, R12 systems used mineral oil to lube the compressor, and 134A systems use PAG oil to lube the compressor. Mineral oil and PAG are not compatible with both types of Freon, but there is an oil that'll work with both types of Freon, and that oil is called Polyol Ester Oil (POE).
Since your AC system started out as a R12 system, and was converted over to 134A Freon, you'll want to make sure you install your new compressor with Polyol Ester Oil.
One other thing, the manifold connections in you're photos have mud and dirt all over them, make sure you clean them BEFORE you hook up you're manifold gauge set to refill your system.
Since your AC system started out as a R12 system, and was converted over to 134A Freon, you'll want to make sure you install your new compressor with Polyol Ester Oil.
One other thing, the manifold connections in you're photos have mud and dirt all over them, make sure you clean them BEFORE you hook up you're manifold gauge set to refill your system.
If you buy a Denso compressor (471-1166) it comes with PAG 46 oil. Since you'll want to replace the drier as well and frankly, since you don't really know what the condition of the rest of the system is, I'd replace all the o-rings and the expansion block as well. Once you've got it that far apart it's easy to flush the lines and the condenser to remove whatever oil was in there.
- Thread starter
- #14
Ok I was just wondering since this was a R12 compressor with an adapter, if I need to stay with a R12 Compressor and just swap over the adapter. I just want to make sure that I don’t have to return it because the lines don’t fit or something.
The compressors for R12 and R134a are identical, the difference is just the oil that comes in the compressor. You'll need to re-use the 4-bolt plate from your existing compressor which is where the hoses attach. The new compressor will come with just a flat shipping plate.
If it were me, here's what I would do with a new-to-me-rig in which the AC doesn't work. In fact, I was in the exact same boat when I bought my '93.
Just because the guy you got it from says the compressor is bad doesn't make it so. If it is low on refrigerant (leak or just low), it will not click on. I would test the compressor before blindly replacing it.
For me, even though it came with R12, I'd recharge with R134a. It is cheap and easy to find. I used R134a in my '93 and have been happy with it. Seems to get very cold but I don't live in AZ either.
Replace all the O-rings. Again, cheap and easy. I use Nylog blue on all fittings / O-rings (as suggested by someone here). Seems like good stuff.
I'd replace the expansion valve. Again, cheap and now is the time to do it since you are opening up the system. Also gives you a chance to clean the evap unit which is undoubtedly in desperate need of cleaning.
And of course the dryer gets replaced.
All the tools you'll need can be "rented" (i.e. borrowed for free) from the auto parts store. You can get the AC manifold and a vacuum pump. Also, the parts are all available on Rockauto for a reasonable price.
Good luck. There are lots of threads here on AC, so do some research here. I have repaired both my '93 and '95 and they both work great. And I had never worked on AC before doing the '93.
Just because the guy you got it from says the compressor is bad doesn't make it so. If it is low on refrigerant (leak or just low), it will not click on. I would test the compressor before blindly replacing it.
For me, even though it came with R12, I'd recharge with R134a. It is cheap and easy to find. I used R134a in my '93 and have been happy with it. Seems to get very cold but I don't live in AZ either.
Replace all the O-rings. Again, cheap and easy. I use Nylog blue on all fittings / O-rings (as suggested by someone here). Seems like good stuff.
I'd replace the expansion valve. Again, cheap and now is the time to do it since you are opening up the system. Also gives you a chance to clean the evap unit which is undoubtedly in desperate need of cleaning.
And of course the dryer gets replaced.
All the tools you'll need can be "rented" (i.e. borrowed for free) from the auto parts store. You can get the AC manifold and a vacuum pump. Also, the parts are all available on Rockauto for a reasonable price.
Good luck. There are lots of threads here on AC, so do some research here. I have repaired both my '93 and '95 and they both work great. And I had never worked on AC before doing the '93.
- Thread starter
- #17
How does one test the compressor?
I got this suggestion for my 91 JDM from Dave Stedman at Japan 4x4. Apparently Toyota does not package a reseal kit. He checked around with his buddies at the local shops where he lives in Japan and told me they recommend this kit from Amazon. I have not bought it yet so I have no experience other than the suggestion from the land of the rising sun. Dave also pointed me to this handy looking o-ring chart.
Santech MT 2580
AC O-ring Chart
Santech MT 2580
AC O-ring Chart
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Lets try this again...
Start at step one and work your way through.
You will need a set of manifold guages to tell anything. Rent, beg, borrow, steal, buy....
Start at step one and work your way through.
You will need a set of manifold guages to tell anything. Rent, beg, borrow, steal, buy....
Denso part numbers for your vehicle:
Compressor 471-1166
Receiver/Drier 478-2004
Expansion valve 475-2002
O-ring kit Santech MT2581
Given the condition of those adapter fittings, I'd just replace them.
59976 Low side and either 59977 (1/4") or 59978 (3/16") on the high side. 4Seasons part #'s.
Compressor 471-1166
Receiver/Drier 478-2004
Expansion valve 475-2002
O-ring kit Santech MT2581
Given the condition of those adapter fittings, I'd just replace them.
59976 Low side and either 59977 (1/4") or 59978 (3/16") on the high side. 4Seasons part #'s.