finding TDC
- Thread starter decavo
- Start date
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buy a new one and shop around i got mine for $60 and the used one will only cause you more money and a big headache down the road.
They will all eventually have the same problem, I would spring for the new one....if you can swing it.
- Thread starter
- #44
limited time I need this thing on the road by tuesday at the latest.. gotta take it to school next week... have to have a little exhaust work done, and tow points on it to drag it back to school next week behind the motohome the 80 at 10mpg is killing me for school
i am checking but i think straight up?
yea it looks like up. and the dot or mark on the crank sprocket should be at the bottom then the mark on the cam sprocket should be up. that would be top dead center on compression stroke.
- Thread starter
- #48
that is what i think i saw in the fsm... now the valves you adjust will have the round side up not the point side up.. me and my mechanic buddy are having a controversy about all of this.... gotta have my ducks in a row.... woulod really like to hear this thing run again soon...
I think you already asked this, but make sure to pull rear driveshaft and unlock front hubs before towing....
you will not regret spending the money. the first one i rebuilt spilled 3 quarts with in minutes. it is funny though it never went more than 3 quarts. but i tried other things (sleeve and seals) they did not work for me so i bought a new one and have no oil leaks so my .002 is to buy a new one!!
look back at the post of the pics from my fsm and it has arrows buy the ones you adjust at tdc and at 180, also before adjusting if every thing is lined up right you will be able to move the ones that need adjusting.
- Thread starter
- #53
so if I am looking at this correctly set the crank at TDC lining up the notch with the 0 on the oil pump cover.. adjust those valves... move the notch to the 6 o'clock position then adjust the rest of the valves...
The same mark that is used for TDC, is used for BTDC...
If the two valve rockers are loose ON THE #1 CYLINDER, or lobes down, it's at TDC... There will be no tension on the rockers to the valves... That's why you can adjust them.
If the they are not, or the lobes ON THE #1 CYLINDER are up, it's at BTDC... And the distributor will be at #4 b/c it's at TDC for the #4 piston.
It's b/c it's on the compression stroke of the #4 cylinder.
Rotating the crank another 360 degrees (cam will only do 180) will bring the compression stroke back to the #1 piston and the distributor firing on the #1 cylinder.
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yes that is correct adjust only the valves with arrows on tdc, then turn your crank one revolution that putst your cam at 180 and then adjust the valve with arrows. so in other words #1 is on tdc exhaust on the second step and tdc on compression on the first step.
decavo some one used to make a full floater kit for the rear of toyotas and they used locking hubs like the front but i can not remember who and i am not sure if they still do. how far you towing it? you should be able to just put your transfer case in neutral(not sure about autos if it has one) and be alright. i am not sure about that i was towed from Clarksburg MD to Charles Town with a regular tow truck back in june 08 and have not noticed any thing different.
well i have chores to do but if i get them all done i might be able to.
You mean, manual hubs.....like full floating axle style?