finally turboing the 3b. "in progress"
- Thread starter cody c
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- Thread starter
- #22
well, there is still a bit of an exhaust leak, i think i will just weld the the exhaust plate to the turbo sometime. does anyone know if having too little fuel will create high egt's? it seems to run hot but the fuel mileage is about 12-15 litres per 100kms highway. i was continually pulling my foot off the throttle to keep the egts down. i think maybe sealing the exhaust to keep hot air out of the engine compartment will help alot too. the cruiser wasnt blowing any black smoke at all even on the hills, i wonder if having the fuel too lean and high temps increasing combustion would probally be why. also those of you considering doing this my total costs were about $400-500 but i did get the oil lines from work.
My experence is that a exhaust leak were the turbo meets the manifold increases EGTs and lowers boost very quickly. I made my own gaskest the first couple of times out of the hightemp exhaust material and had a hard time getting it to seal. the last time I made one I torqued the bolts and then warmed up the engine let it cool and then torqued the piss out of the bolts and have had no problems since. The local Napa could not come up a T3 inlet gasket so I made do with what I could ge t at the time. I would not weld the turbo to the manifold you could tweak the turbo, plus you would lose a lot of repairablity of the turbo if you need a rebuild.
You will not get the result you want as long as you have a exhaust leak before the turbo.
Good Luck.
You will not get the result you want as long as you have a exhaust leak before the turbo.
Good Luck.
- Thread starter
- #24
maybe welding the turbo on is a little radical but i cant find a gasket material to seal the exhaust post turbo. this part of the exhaust is custom so ordering factory gaskets might not work, i tried an exhaust seal product that looks kinda like cement but i would like a universal sheet of gasket material. as far as repairability goes to get another turbo would be around $200 so it probally isnt that far from a rebuild kit.
Turbo shop I talked to say skip gaskets and use Red High heat RTV silicon. It will dry up to be like a wihite powder and seal nicely. Do it on all flanges.
Have you adjusted the fuel screw at all? try turning it down till even pushing very hard you don't reach 1150 or 1200. Then you never have to really worry about it.
lean mixture(wrong terminolgy) is just less fuel and less heat. Gasser theory does not apply. More fuel more heat.
On my BJ60 when it was naturally aspirated I was consistantly pulling 10.5 liters on the highway, driving conservative.
I imagine having a turbo allows you to drive more aggressively and would use a little more fuel.
As for the alignment you mentioned. This truck is super easy to do a self alignment. There is only two rods. One centres the steering wheel the other sets toe in. With big tires use a quarter inch of toe in. The upper rod to the pitman arm is for centering the steering wheel. simple to adjust but takes mulitple trys to get it just perfect. Then you load the truck up, the suspension goes down and the steering is off centre again. Just the way it works.
Have you adjusted the fuel screw at all? try turning it down till even pushing very hard you don't reach 1150 or 1200. Then you never have to really worry about it.
lean mixture(wrong terminolgy) is just less fuel and less heat. Gasser theory does not apply. More fuel more heat.
On my BJ60 when it was naturally aspirated I was consistantly pulling 10.5 liters on the highway, driving conservative.
I imagine having a turbo allows you to drive more aggressively and would use a little more fuel.
As for the alignment you mentioned. This truck is super easy to do a self alignment. There is only two rods. One centres the steering wheel the other sets toe in. With big tires use a quarter inch of toe in. The upper rod to the pitman arm is for centering the steering wheel. simple to adjust but takes mulitple trys to get it just perfect. Then you load the truck up, the suspension goes down and the steering is off centre again. Just the way it works.
- Thread starter
- #29
i did measure about 1/8 to 1/4 inch difference front to back for the front alignment, when i brought it in it was within less than a degree, so i didnt really need it but the sticky weights on the front tires were missing, 2.5 and 5 ounces for the other to balance 35" mtr's. the exhaust leak like i said is post turbo, it is sealed well to the manifold but the engine temps get too high with just a bit of throttle. if the red high temp rtv will work for sure i will try pulling the exhaust off the turbo and re-sealing it one more time, i filled up yesterday it was about 12litres/100kms, because its not a dd i dont care too much about impairing the mileage, but i havent adjusted my fuel mixture yet so i should take care of the exhaust problem before i do that or it will get even hotter i suppose. there wouldnt be any damage to a diesel from running low quantities of fuel like underlubrication or running hot/lean like a gasser then ill leave it till the exhaust is fixed.
i recently built a turbo for my 96lx450 gas engine. if you want your flanges to seal tight take the 2 surfaces to any machine shop and have them refinished-dont pay a lot of money for the actual machine but just have them use their big belt sander. the local shop by me charges $5 a surface. Then go buy the actual metal gasket. dont use red rvt sealant. if your surfaces are flat you dont need any sealant (or gasket for that matter). if you are going to use any sealants use the copper spray.
add an intercooler to cool it down-way easier than you think. dont use all that aluminum, just use plain old exhaust tubing.
wrap everything up and add shields to reduce underhood temps. especialy wrap your turbine.
If you want to have a real easy seal between your turbo and exhaust use a v-band clamp like this:
add an intercooler to cool it down-way easier than you think. dont use all that aluminum, just use plain old exhaust tubing.
wrap everything up and add shields to reduce underhood temps. especialy wrap your turbine.
If you want to have a real easy seal between your turbo and exhaust use a v-band clamp like this:
cody c said:
Think of the fuel delivery like this: The injection pump adds more fuel to raise the rpm, more fuel more rpm. less fuel less rpm.
But there is a certain point that the engine will not raise in rpm but will have all the heat from excess fuel.
The engine does not have a mixture. On a gasser the mixture trys to stay consitant with rpm changes and fuel flow increases. There will always be a certain amount of fuel to air.
Where as a diesel has completely variable mixtures so to say. At idle the air to fuel is huge. I read somewhere(could be wrong) but the engine has 600% more air than needed at idle for combustion. And at high power we can't get enough air to fuel. Or we are over injecting fuel to get a raise in rpm but the engine can't pick up quick enough. thats why turbos are important for diesels.
The theory in my head is easy to think about cause I work on gas turbines, and they are just add more fuel and the engine spins faster. But when you add more fuel and the engine hasn't had time to build up speed yet the temps go up fast.
Try turning down the fuel on your injection pump. See if that helps.
One more twist just hapened to me, My 80 bj40 has been gaining h2o and egt temps, I have been focused on fuel so much that I overlooked the basics. this was kinda slow in happening that without egts, I would have not really noticed until it might ahave been too late. With the truck warmed up an temps higher than normal after climbing a incline, I pulled over and found I could stop the radiator fan very easly with my hand.
I am glad I caught this since it is going to a new owner 1300 miles away.
Myrle
I am glad I caught this since it is going to a new owner 1300 miles away.
Myrle
- Thread starter
- #34
the exit side of the turbo isnt cylindrical its a machined surface with threaded holes, i think that getting the fabricated part machined is probally a good idea due to possible warping during welding. i think one of the bolt holes might be a little stripped as well which would affect proper sealing. i'll find a machine shop and then a tap and bolt that will repair the damaged thread hole, and then ill find some of this copper spray. would you know of any specific places that carry this product? i also think the heat shields are a good idea but probally wont have time to do this properly till i get back from nz.
I turbo'd my rabbit p/u and was in the same boat as you. I used the factory exhaust manifold and a garret t3 which was also used stock on some of the early vw's. From the factory they have no gasket, only milled flat mating surfaces. I've used RTV and it just burned off. I put it back together with clean flat surfaces and have had no problems whatsoever so far. Its been 3 years since I did this...Bow-Wow was able to supply some turbo (silicone) connecting hoses for me as well. www.bowwow.ca or 604-594-4300
Cool rig, great job on the conversion!
Cool rig, great job on the conversion!
- Thread starter
- #36
also i havent adjusted the fuel at all since it has been installed, i had the injector diaphram replaced and had wayne adjust fuel prior to the turbo, which is why i think the high egt's is from leaking hot exhaust air getting sucked into the intake not from overkill fuel adjustment. i'm guessing intercoolers would lower engine temps and increase power therefore hot intake air would increase egts and lower hp.
copper spray is available at most any auto chain auto parts store. it specifically says on the can that its made for exhaust manifolds, its not as good as a flat surface or a metal gasket. my flanges warped big time durring weld up. took almost 1/8 of steel off to get em flat.
compression
This is somehow likely not an issue b/c it's not been mentioned during this thread but .........
there's a local guy I know who's brother worked for Toyota for several years and he said the comp ratio for a NA 3B is 20:1 and on the 13BT (same block) it's 17:1.
I'm planning on adding a turbo to my 3B as well.
Do we not risk detonation with the higher compression in a NA 3B when a turbo is added due to incresed comp. , is it somehow just not an issue or is that just not correct about those engines having different compression?
Aaron
This is somehow likely not an issue b/c it's not been mentioned during this thread but .........
there's a local guy I know who's brother worked for Toyota for several years and he said the comp ratio for a NA 3B is 20:1 and on the 13BT (same block) it's 17:1.
I'm planning on adding a turbo to my 3B as well.
Do we not risk detonation with the higher compression in a NA 3B when a turbo is added due to incresed comp. , is it somehow just not an issue or is that just not correct about those engines having different compression?
Aaron