Builds Finally got my own...Meet BeBe (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

what about license plate holder screws? Thread pitch on those?

Nevermind figured it out.. Ended up that I have an M6x1.00 bolt hanging around and that is what she was (unfortunately too short though). So she is now complete!

Oh and new tailgate is on, pics are uploading now!.
 
Last edited:
Thought this was a cool shot from the other morning... Was about 5:30am and all of 20* outside.

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

And from this weekend....
New Smittybilt....

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

New upper hatch struts!!! The glass finally stays open!

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

New JimC allen plugs for the air rail (finally completed desmog!)

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

Hard to see AC Idler Pulley with new bearing!! No more random noise from it or screaming..

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

And finally, the new tailgate bought from Finny!

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr
 
Have to say that the truck definitely drives a bit differently since I did the oil change on Friday and finalized the desmog.

I have been running mid-grade that last month or so as really the realization that the difference in cost on a FULL tank would be a maximum of like $3 (cheap stuff currently $3.16/gallon and mid is $3.27/gallon) and thus is pretty negliglible even when going from E to F.

When I was taking the air rail off I found that the connector nuts (piece that holds the rail pipes to the block valves) on the front 4 (cylinders 1-4) were all so loose that I spun them off by hand, no wrench needed. Then the actually block valves (or whatever they are called) were loose enough that I could do a quarter turn with a socket and then unscrew by hand, the #1 cylinder was actually loose enough that I just did it by hand. This was in GLARING contrast to the back to which the #5 cylinder I had to use my 1/2" drive socket and BFH to get it loose enough to turn by hand with the wrench and the #6 had to be cut at the pipe and then the socket actually took both the small section of pipe, nut for the pipe to valve connection and the valve all came out after some major grunting and cussing as one piece.

This is all after it soaking in PBBlaster for 2day (enough that on the first start up all the excess PBBlaster smoked for a good 30 minutes.

Now she just seems to idle better, run a lot better, and has a bit more giddy up to her from the stop light. Glad that I finally got a good amount of time to dedicate to work on her since the misses was out of town for the weekend.

Next on the list is to drop the manifold to exhaust pipe so that way I can actually weld up the J-pipe connection instead of just having a piece of rebar stuffed in there. From there, this summer I need to pull the manifold to fix a busted J-pipe stud and see if she is good and flat (check for warpage, which I dont think is there).

Hopefully this year I will be able to;
- rebuild knuckles on both sides (told my dad to bring my 12yr old nephew up to get dirty for a couple days)
- pull manifold to check, replace studs, and remount
- pull valve cover and run valves
- possibly see if a carb rebuild is needed
- paint the truck (still debating Monstaliner or actually try my hand at painting?!)

if time permits (or more like money)
- replace all bushings
- replace shackles with 1.5" JT Outfitter anti-inversion greasable shackles
- add in long AALs (all four corners)
- new shocks (will depend on money but looking at Pro Comp ES9000)
- add longer braided stainless brake lines if needed
- replace drivers side lock (will have to see about getting rekeyed)
 
Good job on the desmog, it's good to consider something DONE!
But dude, knowing how much you love tan, like really fxxxing love tan, that nice looking tailgate will either kill you to cover up with a different color, or, wait a minute... I like where this is headed. :grinpimp::beer:
 
LOL... Yeah I know... when I was headed out of the office yesterday I just kinda sat and looked at the tailgate and thought to myself "damn I love that color!" Still debating on Monstaliner or paint, since I don't have a compressor I would either have to find someone with one that is large enough to borrow and use or have it professionally done. Leaning towards the Monstaliner still, but really it is like a 60/40 split at this point.
 
What she could look like ;)


ForumRunner_20140123_095409.webp



ForumRunner_20140123_095425.webp

ForumRunner_20140123_095409.webp


ForumRunner_20140123_095425.webp
 
Well, you have the tailgate from those pics already... You're 10% of the way there!!
 
Dont know if the 464 Beige would look funky with all grey interior... And NO I do not want to swap out my interior while I am at it... :flipoff2:
 
Dont know if the 464 Beige would look funky with all grey interior... And NO I do not want to swap out my interior while I am at it... ************

Tint the windows limo black.. never roll down the windows or open the doors again and you'd be ok... Or pray for color blindness.;)

HA!

J
 
LOL @ J.... I think I am too anal-retentive to do that and the color difference would bother me. Think I am going to order a Pyroclastic ML repair kit next weekend to paint the inside of my lower tailgate. This will give me a good idea of how it holds up (to my dogs nails and then also let me see that color in person.
 
LOL @ J.... I think I am too anal-retentive to do that and the color difference would bother me. Think I am going to order a Pyroclastic ML repair kit next weekend to paint the inside of my lower tailgate. This will give me a good idea of how it holds up (to my dogs nails and then also let me see that color in person.

Ok G.. I can say after 2 ML installs and will continue with another on Goss.... the ML is hard as hell when it sets up.. Therefore, it will be hard for the dog's claws to gain purchase on the tailgates new surface... Believe it or not the ML product does have some limitations.... My golden had issues getting in the back of Marley sometimes due to slippage...

Just my .02... Not trying to talk you out of the ML, just a heads up...

:cheers:

J
 
Thanks J... Yeah I figure the inside of the tailgate will be a good test. If I dont like it for one reason or another then I am no worse for the ware. I will probably go a bit more aggressive with the texture in that area just because.
 
Thanks J... Yeah I figure the inside of the tailgate will be a good test. If I dont like it for one reason or another then I am no worse for the ware. I will probably go a bit more aggressive with the texture in that area just because.

Yeah... worst case scenario... you hate it and have to call KR for some WagonGear products...

:grinpimp:

J
 
Dont know if the 464 Beige would look funky with all grey interior... And NO I do not want to swap out my interior while I am at it... :flipoff2:

Keep your interior and dye it black :bounce2:
 
Ok I am going to start preparing for things once that weather gets warmer (though Punxsutawney Phil believes we have another 6wks of winter)..

Short order list:
- Adjust valves
- Remove downpipe to weld shut J-pipe connection
- Remove intake to test for flatness and to fix broken J-pipe stud
- Replace suspension bushings
- Replace TREs
- Possible new shocks and shackles (to afford some lift)

I know pretty much what I need for everything but the gaskets for the manifold and the down pipe. Is it better to go with Toyota OEM for these or will the FelPro from NAPA(whereever) work?
 
As for shackles you can get em for 10 bucks each (you need 8) from ruffstuff specialties. I have some rear main springs (lift) that should work for you that I can build into a matching pack. Yours for near free. Just need enough to cover gas if I drop em with you in reno or something. Let me know
 
Thanks dude I may take you up on that...

I found that JT Outfitters has custom anti-inversion shackles that will add ~1" of lift over stock (and another set that adds ~1.5" over stock) and can come in greaseable. The standard 1" ones are $30/pair plus $15 for addition of greaseable. Figure that should be a decently cheap way to get a little bit of lift, add greaseable shackles and not affect my angles too much to require shims or anything.
 
Greg,
You mentioned in my thread that one of your manifold J-pipe->exhaust pipe studs broke off and that you were going to pull the whole manifold. If you unbolt the manifold studs holding just that j-pipe, you can get it out of there without pulling the whole manifold.

I had the exact same problem and dreaded pulling the whole thing but I gave it a shot and 15 minutes later I had the j-pipe in my hand to get at the broken stud. I had to make some room by removing heat shield and unlinking the throttle mechanism. Hope this motivates you to get it done. That leak was making my whole rig stink, can't be healthy.
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom