Final Decisions For Next Weeks Build (1 Viewer)

KNR

Joined
Aug 18, 2020
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SF Bay Area
Hi All, first want to thank everyone on here. Such a huge amount of knowledge. I have my 2017 premium going into the shop next week for a full set up. I’ll post a build later but am down to just a couple choices. I tend to be very OCD and often come up to analysis paralysis. I like doing it once right (buy once cry once) as it seems most are the same way. In summary I’m getting CBI covert front bumper, CBI under body. SSO skids, BMC Dobinsons long travel MRA, with front UCA, did drop, Panhard rear upper lowers etc.

Question. Same one as everyone else, but haven’t found this size for GX’s discussed here. I’m down to 3 tires. Mechanic is recommending 285/70/17, days he knows they can fit. I was wanting 285/75/17, little taller and a little narrower which is great but was told about the Kenda Klever RT and am really wanting the 35/10.5:17’s. I’m ok with heat gun stuff, fender liner trimming pinch welds etc. at this moment my only full stop is trimming the rear bumper (will eventually move to a ronin bash bar, but not until high mount exhaust is ready for 460’s). I’ve done my research, due diligence and read through everyone’s builds. Do you think 34.8”x11.1” tires will work and not bind? Wheels are alpha equips echo’s 17x8.5 +10.

Second question is about on board air. I was pretty set on a non on board compressor for utilities sake, but seeing the RAGO wifey system has me re-thinking. Any thoughts on on-board /this system vs portable other then it’s more useful to have I portable?

Last is the Diff breather. Install now or just wait until the e-lockers, and 4.88 gears next year. Thanks again and I will put together a build summary shortly
 
Joined
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SoCal
I just installed on board air. I used the ARB dual compressor and the slee mounting plate. The slee was easy to install and fit really well with one exception. The wiring harness makes contact with the brake booster/reservoir. I plan to wrap the wiring up in some fuel hose to reduce abrasion.

I helped a friend install the same dual using the Rago mount in his 4th gen 4Runner. It was not nearly as easy to install, and it didn’t seem to fit as well. This might be different for the GX460, but helping my friend install it steered me away from the Rago.

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Jacket

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Boulder, Colorado
 
 
No idea on the tires, but if you're pushing toward 35's I'm guessing you might need to do some metal trimming work. 285's are the same width, so you're just talking about a height difference in the 70 vs 75 height ratio.

OBA - depends on your budget. You can get a simple air compressor that you carry along and clamp to your battery when you need to fill your tires. Takes a bit more time but works just fine. You're already letting someone else do all the build out of your truck, so if you want the convenience of a mounted compressor and lines already taken care of, then go ahead and add it now. The dual ARB in the previous post is one of the best for efficiency and reliability.

Breathers - Nothing to do with lockers/gears. If you plan on driving across deep water regularly, then its a good thing to do - and it's as simple as buying some rubber hose and moving the port higher in the vehicle.

Just go have some fun man - and when you need something ask the guys you're wheeling with.
 
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I have the exact same setup as @KJ6IRM and I love it. I ran the same thing in my last 5th Gen 4Runner as well. The Rago Wifey system while cool in theory, seems like a silly gimmick if you ask me. You'll have the added plumbing, a second manifold and you still have to go and connect/disconnect all four hoses at each tire/corner and lets not forget the fact that the compressor is now working to air up all four tires at the same time. To me it seems just as easy to air up each tire individually and at $350 plus install I'll gladly air up each tire myself in order to keep it simple and that scratch in my pocket. BTW, it only takes me a little over a minute to air up each one of my 285/70/17's from 15 psi to 36 psi.

285/75/17's are about as large as most will go on the GX460, any bigger and you'll certainly need to do some major cutting and trimming or you'll have to add a 1" body lift, yuck. I wouldn't recommend going to 35's without regearing either. I understand wanting a larger tire, I suffer from the same affliction. You'll retain decent fuel economy with the 285/70/17, any larger and you'll definitely start to notice it at the pump. That said, once these tires are worn out I plan to move to either a 295/70/17 or a 285/75/17. Don't forget to look at the BFG KO2 34x10.50x17 as well, tall pizza cutters.

 

KNR

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Aug 18, 2020
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SF Bay Area
Thanks everyone that’s the common sense that helps. I had that feeling with the wifey... Just had bad experiences in the past with airing up as of course I was the tag along and shared the air lol. I’m going to go with a non OBA system. Seems to fit my needs, and Feels just a little more versatile. For tires, I’ll go the safer route on the first go 285/70/17’s, Just need to decide between the Toyo at3’s and Falkens. I’ll re-evaluate the tires Size when I work on phase 2. The falkens seems to be the hot ticket,, but here if some inconsistencies. I’m kinda feelin the at3’s. Thanks Everyone again for all the input. I’m beyond excited to get out there and will get into more detail of the build in a different post in the coming weeks. Thanks for the insight.
 
Joined
Mar 14, 2013
Messages
339
 
Not a fan of putting an air compressor under the hood.

I fabricated the mount and routed the air chuck along the receiver hitch.

I just measured the noise level yesterday, 65 db in the drivers seated position.

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r2m

Richard
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Nov 1, 2007
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San Clemente, CA
 
 
Tires:
One thing you didn't mention was what lift, meaning how high are you going with your suspension? That will weigh heavily on tire size.
I have the 3" Icon kit and run the BFG M/T KM2's, LT285/75R17
Amazon product
I had to do the body mount trim and some trimming/heating of the inner wheel well (minimal). But I'm also very heavily loaded with steel bumpers, sliders, steel roof rack, RTT and all my overland gear, AND that's not including any of my other overland camping gear (refrigerator, galley, chairs, table, etc.) when I load-out for a trip!
With this setup, I don't get any rubbing.

Compressor:
I also did the dual ARB under the hood, but with a twist. I keep my air hose and hose fittings under the hood also!
This has worked out GREAT! Any time I ever need air, it's all right there! I don't need to dig out bags, boxes or wherever people keep their air accessories. I just pop the hood and BAMM, it's all there! Note the "reusable" cable tie (zip tie) that I use to keep my hose coiled on my compressor. These reusable cable ties are great to have on board for so many uses!
Amazon product
You can see that setup here starting at post #79: Builds - R2M 2013 GX460 Overland Build
 

KNR

Joined
Aug 18, 2020
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SF Bay Area
Tires:
One thing you didn't mention was what lift, meaning how high are you going with your suspension? That will weigh heavily on tire size.
I have the 3" Icon kit and run the BFG M/T KM2's, LT285/75R17
Amazon product
I had to do the body mount trim and some trimming/heating of the inner wheel well (minimal). But I'm also very heavily loaded with steel bumpers, sliders, steel roof rack, RTT and all my overland gear, AND that's not including any of my other overland camping gear (refrigerator, galley, chairs, table, etc.) when I load-out for a trip!
With this setup, I don't get any rubbing.

Compressor:
I also did the dual ARB under the hood, but with a twist. I keep my air hose and hose fittings under the hood also!
This has worked out GREAT! Any time I ever need air, it's all right there! I don't need to dig out bags, boxes or wherever people keep their air accessories. I just pop the hood and BAMM, it's all there! Note the "reusable" cable tie (zip tie) that I use to keep my hose coiled on my compressor. These reusable cable ties are great to have on board for so many uses!
Amazon product
You can see that setup here starting at post #79: Builds - R2M 2013 GX460 Overland Build
Hey there, I've followed your build and gained a lot of knowledge and lots of notes. Great rig!! If I went with a OBA system, I was definitely going to do what you did for the inflation stuff. For suspension, I've got the Dobinsons MRA long travel kit. It's adjustable from 2.5" to I believe 3.5" I have the Treaty oak KDSS spacers as well, not sure that makes a difference other then lean. I keep reading it's not "recommended" to go above 2.5, just like 285/70/17 is the consensus max without major cutting lol" so I was starting at 2.5" For my needs I'm approaching what may be a little different of a route for this build. I'm trying to go as light as possible while maintaining everything needed for being extremely trail worthy. "Lighter" front and rear bumpers, aluminum where available or makes sense etc. For travel I will be pulling an M416 style trailer. Keeping that small but will house the battery system, fridge, storage, RTT, Spare etc. Trying to keep the rig unburdened during the week, but be able to go at any moment. Anyways, it's good to hear it wasn't too much trouble for those tires. I liking the Toyo AT3's since it comes in a 285/75/17 as a class C.

Thanks for the input! and will follow up with the final decisions.
 
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r2m

Richard
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Virtual "high-five" on keeping the weight down!!!
If I were to do it over again, I would have gone with the Coastal Offroad aluminum front and rear bumpers (Lexus GX460 High Clearance Front Bumper Kit - Coastal Offroad ). But when I started my build there weren't a lot of bumper vendors out there. In fact, that's why I have a 2013. It was the very last year before the "spindle" front end and at the time there wasn't anyone make bumpers for 2014 and newer.
I would also do 3/4" polypropylene sheet for some of the under carriage instead of steel or aluminum. Lighter and will slide easier off obstacles.
Maybe even an aluminum rack too, but I do love my Gamiviti rack!
Probably the only thing that would be made out of good 'ol 4130 chrome moly, would be the rock sliders. Just can't compromise on that.
 

KNR

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Aug 18, 2020
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SF Bay Area
I almost did the coastal aluminum! It was my preferred choice So so close, but the in house discussion was it was a little too aggressive (for now) This will be a daily driver for the house (not mine) lol and needed to keep it a little more covert (for now), hence the CBI bumper and aluminum under body armor looks good with it. (these poly under body you speak of..... link? home made???) Most importantly with all of this, is it's gonna get used (we see it as a 300-400K vehicle for us), want the best set up to start with and am gonna cry with the first ding and racing stripes, then smile cause it's all so much more fun from there on out.
 

r2m

Richard
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Even better would be UHMW polyethylene. No one makes anything like this so, yes, it would be a custom fab. But I don't think is should be too difficult. It's an easy material for machining (cutting, drilling, tapping).
I think a sheet or two of 2' x 4' x 3/4" would be all you'd need.
Look at McMaster-Carr: McMaster-Carr
You should be able find it cheaper from other vendors.
 

KNR

Joined
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SF Bay Area
Next question. I’m still going to build the truck ‘lighter‘ as a daily driver, but I’m curious. What is rougher on our trucks. Weight over the wheels (fridge tire drawers tent spare secondary battery etc) or pulling that equipment with a very small trailer? I see our rigs getting really loaded, but also talk of tranny temps with towing. If all is equal with weight (except for the trailer and say 800#) would you rather carry a heavy truck or tow a ’light’ trailer?
 
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Next question. I’m still going to build the truck ‘lighter‘ as a daily driver, but I’m curious. What is rougher on our trucks. Weight over the wheels (fridge tire drawers tent spare secondary battery etc) or pulling that equipment with a very small trailer? I see our rigs getting really loaded, but also talk of tranny temps with towing. If all is equal with weight (except for the trailer and say 800#) would you rather carry a heavy truck or tow a ’light’ trailer?
Difficult to answer but I'll give it a shot. Are you going to tow the trailer offroad? If not, then a lightweight trailer would be a great alternative to putting a ton of weight on the GX. I know people do it but I wouldn't tow any trailer offroad unless it was on basically a dirt road. If not using a trailer then I would just keep the weight below the vehicles GVWR. As far as tranny temps, I've never monitored them on any tow rigs I've owned. I feel that if a rig has an advertised tow rating then the manufacturer designed it to do just that. That said, if I was towing at the limit on a regular basis out here in the Western states then I'd probably monitor tranny temps (I'd also be doing other things too like air bags/heavy duty springs, heavy duty brakes, once a year tranny flushes). Much like towing at the limit, if you're going to be at or over the vehicles GVWR, then I would treat the vehicle like you're towing at the limit because the vehicle is still working hard.
 

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