Fairey OD help needed

Joined
Feb 27, 2013
Messages
76
Location
Oakesdale WA
I can't believe it....I actually got the roll pin driven in without pulling the OD or lowering the transfer case!!! It actually went better than I expected. First off, the roll pin is 5mm. It isn't as tight of a fit as I was expecting but I think that definitely worked in my favor when I installed it. I used a pair of locking forceps to get the pin lined up with the hole and the drove it home with a long punch.

I still have to install the 2 O-rings and circlip on the cross shaft and cut a new gasket, but I can definitely see the light at the end of the tunnel.

Looking back, I think the problem occurred the first time I tried to engage the overdrive. Because that upper shaft is above the oil when sitting I think it caused the detent to freeze up or at least get very stiff. I guess, if I could do it over, I could've dropped the OD lower half and freed up the detent from below with a screwdriver. That little 5mm roll pin just couldn't handle the force it took to free the detent.

I used a liberal amount of white lithium grease on the detent during assembly. The detent still feels pretty stiff, but I'm shifting it withe the 2" lever on the side of the OD. When I reconnect the linkage I'm guessing it will shift much easier with the actual shift lever.

Thanks again for all the info and advice. I hope I'll have her back together by the end of the weekend. I'll post a final update once it's on the road and working. Then I can start posting pictures of her all polished up with new tires. 😁
 
Joined
Feb 27, 2013
Messages
76
Location
Oakesdale WA
It's taking me longer than expected to get things buttoned back up. When I went to install the lower half of the OD I found one of the bolt holes had stripped threads. I repaired those and got the OD back together and filled with oil.
The water pump was going out so I replaced it. While it was off I flushed the engine coolant passages with a hose until the water looked clean. I also flushed the heaters until clean water came out the other line. I got new stainless original style hose clamps for every hose under the hood and am currently getting all the hoses installed. The previous owner had all new factory Toyota hoses in a box that he gave me so that made things much easier.
I did drive it out of the shop to flush the block so it would appear that my OD repair was successful but I won't know for sure till I get everything buttoned up and take her out on the road. I'll post a final update when I verify all is good.
 
Joined
Apr 21, 2005
Messages
22,313
It's taking me longer than expected to get things buttoned back up. When I went to install the lower half of the OD I found one of the bolt holes had stripped threads. I repaired those and got the OD back together and filled with oil.

Curious was the aluminum thread stripped or the steel bolt? Bolt is easy fix. Not sure if Fairey used a softer steel? Certainly would be upgrading to case harden bolts.
 
Joined
Feb 27, 2013
Messages
76
Location
Oakesdale WA
Curious was the aluminum thread stripped or the steel bolt? Bolt is easy fix. Not sure if Fairey used a softer steel? Certainly would be upgrading to case harden bolts.
It was the aluminum threads in the upper half. It was one of the long bolts next to the TC. I was going to install a Time-Sert but the machine shop suggested a heli-coil since the bolt won't be taken out regularly (or ever again hopefully). It was an easy installation and seemed to hold well. Time will tell if my home-made gasket will leak.
 

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