Factory lockers

[Big Dave]

I've owned my truck for about 3 months now and the lockers have never engaged and the dash lights just blink at me, teasing me. I removed the front locker assembly today and dismantled it. The insides look like the day they were assembled in 1995 and look like they have never been actuated. Still, they don't work. Has any one had this problem?
I've looked at he FAQ's and I didn't know enough about electronics to determine if it is an electrical issue versus mechanical one. I guess I need some help if someone might have an idea on how to.

Any ideas?

Thanks

Dave

 

[landcruisnman]

Are you on dirt and doing figure 8's when trying to lock them? That worked for me....

 

[JohnGalt]

The actuators have a tendency to sieze, especially if not used regularly.

My (off the cuff) guess is it's mechanical since the lights are working & they commonly seize.

I just had my rear unit rebuilt by inchworm gear (Inchworm Gear) - they did a great job.

In my case (I'm the original owner of a '96!), water had somehow worked it's way inside, the glue on the magnets eroded and gave way, and it seized.......Now both of my lockers engage right away.

All that said, do some figure 8's first (not on pavement, of course) and they may lock after a few laps, as was suggested.......

 

[sdnative]

Is the CDL working? CDL must be engaged before the axle lockers can engage.

Make sure the CDL is working properly first (yellow light solid). If not, keep engaging/disengaging it and hopefully it will start working (CDL button/switch helps here, otherwise you're stuck actually putting the xfer case in low). My previous 80's lockers wouldn't engage and I had all three lights blinking at me. I kept putting it in low,high,low,high,etc and it finally started working. Once the CDL started working, the axle lockers engaged right away.

If you put it in low you should also hear the CDL motor turning (hard to hear, roll the window down when it's quiet out). If you don't hear this, the actuator could be bad. If you do hear the motor, it could be the CDL switch on the xfer case.

 

[DirtyRice Joe]

Similar problem on mine. I did the figure 8's, forward, backwards, clockwise, counter-clockwise, rubbing my stomach & patting my head while jumping up & down... Nothing worked. Finally found it was the relay switch that screws into the transfer case. I think it sends the signal that the CDL is locked Replaced that switch and it now works fine.

 

[Big Dave]

I guess I'm not sure what is or isn't working then. I don't have the CDL switch. I'm not sure I know which light should come on when switching to low. I don't recall seeing a yellow light turn on when engaging low. I need a mentor on this stuff I guess. This is my first Land Cruiser. I had a 92 4Runner prior to this and I guess I just don't know all the secrets to the 80 Series yet. Is there maybe someone in the North OC area that I could by a beer for and give me some pointers?


Thanks guys

Dave

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD

 

[sdnative]

I would help troubleshoot if I was going to Summerfest, but I don't think I can make it.

First step is making sure the CDL is working properly. It is the yellow diff lock light in the dash with the bubble in the middle. You can actuate it by putting the xfer case in low. Again, you should hear the motor spinning. You do not need to have the engine running for this, just turn the key to ON.

Unless the CDL is working, you are wasting your time with the axle lockers.

 

[Cosman]

When I picked up my LC the PO had told me that he had only used the lockers "once, maybe twice" since he had bought the car in 2001. Needless to say they were not engaging when I tried them out on the test drive.

My advice (a repeat of what everyone else is saying)

Pick up a CDL switch (if it's a '95, a hazard switch works great)

Find yourself a dirt/gravel lot

Engage the CDL and both lockers

Do some figure eights.

Mine lock up most the time now. The front almost always locks up as soon as I turn the wheel. The rear locks up most the time now, although it occasionally needs a bit of wiggling back and forth on the steering wheel or maybe a bump from a dip or small rock on the trail to get it locked.

Good luck!

 

[JohnGalt]

....Pick up a CDL switch (if it's a '95, a hazard switch works great)....


Good luck!

quick thread hijack:

I've not read all the threads, but if you install a CDL switch, does that allow you to lock the center in 4-hi? I know my 93 had the switch from the factory, but in 96 when I got my 96 it never had the dash switch and only locks in 4-lo.

I thought you had to install the switch and do a mod under the dead pedal too.....(?)

 

[sdnative]

quick thread hijack:

I've not read all the threads, but if you install a CDL switch, does that allow you to lock the center in 4-hi? I know my 93 had the switch from the factory, but in 96 when I got my 96 it never had the dash switch and only locks in 4-lo.

I thought you had to install the switch and do a mod under the dead pedal too.....(?)

Yep, CDL switch will allow you to lock in HI, pin7 mod will allow you to unlock in LO. By locking the CDL (HI or LO), you also disable ABS which is a good thing in the dirt.

 

[car-car]

Is the CDL working? CDL must be engaged before the axle lockers can engage.

Make sure the CDL is working properly first (yellow light solid). If not, keep engaging/disengaging it and hopefully it will start working (CDL button/switch helps here, otherwise you're stuck actually putting the xfer case in low). My previous 80's lockers wouldn't engage and I had all three lights blinking at me. I kept putting it in low,high,low,high,etc and it finally started working. Once the CDL started working, the axle lockers engaged right away.

If you put it in low you should also hear the CDL motor turning (hard to hear, roll the window down when it's quiet out). If you don't hear this, the actuator could be bad. If you do hear the motor, it could be the CDL switch on the xfer case.

Eric is right, you must do this step first as process of elimination. The center diff must lock, and the truck must know the center diff is locked before you can proceed to the axles (fr and rr). With the engine off, turn the key to on ( but don't start the truck). Listen carefully for the center diff to lock ( you will here the CDL motor on the transfer case) as it locks as you switch from Hi to Lo. If it is quiet, you can here this with the windows down or the doors open. Get a friend to help listen if is loud where you are. Best place to listen is at the transfer case on the PS if you can't hear it from the drivers seat. If you do hear it actuate, that is step 1. That means the center is locked, but the relay switch on the transfer case is stuck or bad, and the truck doesn't know that the center is locked, and therefore will not lock the axles until it thinks it is.

If the center diff motor is actually working, you should then test the relay switch on the transfer case. It is on the top of the transfer case; unhook the connection and remove the switch that is screwed in. Break out the multimeter and test for continuity. IIRC, you should have readings of pretty much zero as you press the switch down and up. I read that some had luck by cycling the switch in and out many times and even helped to clean the contacts. I had to swap in another switch, but that did the trick.

Hope this helps.

Oh, there is a temp fix to jumper the connector with a paperclip to close the circuit and trick the truck into thinking the center diff is locked. This should allow for truck to give the green light to lock the axle lockers as well. Not the best practice, but I have done this as a temp solution on the trail, and it worked.

 

[Big Dave]

Well...... I'm not hearing anything from the CDL and I don't get any light on the dash saying it is engaging. It does go into "Low" no problem. The search goes on

 

[car-car]

Are you listening from inside the cab with the ignition on (but engine off)? Even if it is quiet around you, the CDL diff lock motor is not loud. You or a friend/helper may want to try it with the other person listening for the diff lock to actuate from down near the transfer case to hear it. It is quick, one second actuation.

You can also try the paperclip jumper trick I mentioned in order to trick the truck into thinking the center diff is locked. That won't necessarily rule out your center diff issue, but it should give you confirmation on the front and rear lockers as part of the troubleshooting process.

There are some detailed threads in the tech section, which help me troubleshoot my issue when I got the truck.

Hope this helps.