F Engine & The Wednesday 13 Jan 16 Meeting (1 Viewer)

[rambomanor]

As you all know, my FJ 45 is my daily driver. It "died" recently and needs a replacement F engine (the current problems are in the bottom end of the block). So, I have two "asks":

#1 Is anybody who is attending the Wednesday meeting going to be in the Charlottesville/Barboursville/Ruckersville area right before the meeting and able to give me a ride?

#2 Do any of you know of a "healthy", well-maintained F engine I can put in my 45? Ideal would be one with low mileage and no problems that was pulled for a V8 or diesel swap.

* Regarding #1 - even if someone IS able to pick me up, I would need to be dropped off at home (Barboursville) after the meeting by the same person or some other club member.

Thanks in advance.

Reid

 

[matzell]

As you all know, my FJ 45 is my daily driver. It "died" recently and needs a replacement F engine (the current problems are in the bottom end of the block). So, I have two "asks":

#1 Is anybody who is attending the Wednesday meeting going to be in the Charlottesville/Barboursville/Ruckersville area right before the meeting and able to give me a ride?

#2 Do any of you know of a "healthy", well-maintained F engine I can put in my 45? Ideal would be one with low mileage and no problems that was pulled for a V8 or diesel swap.

* Regarding #1 - even if someone IS able to pick me up, I would need to be dropped off at home (Barboursville) after the meeting by the same person or some other club member.

Thanks in advance.

Reid

What happened? Have you pulled the pan? I do not know of any "F"s out there. Maybe Vince might with all the swaps he has done. Might be able to check Craigslist for a FJ60 and swap in the 2F.

 

[rambomanor]

Driving back from Charlotte, NC right after Christmas. I had two cases of stall out. One from rest (at a rest stop) on the way down, and another, after being at rest at a stop-light on the way back home, four days later. In each case, the only noticeable problem was oil pooling in the bottom of the air filter "holder". the air filter itself was NOT clogged/filled with oil. This could have been related to the PCV issue we addressed earlier (I had purchased and installed a new PCV right after the temporary repair we did at your shop. In each of the two stall cases squirting carb cleaner into the carb "helped". In the first case, the battery was already so weakened by the time I tried that (from repeatedly trying to turn the truck over) that this was insufficient. I needed a jump. After I got under way there were no further symptoms of any kind for 300 miles and 4 days. The second time, four days later, I AGAIN sought a jump but the jump was not enough to get me turning over, but the combination of that plus carb cleaner being sprayed in at the same time got be back under way. That was in Lynchburg, on the way back north on Rt. 29. In Lovingston, about 45 or 50 minutes later there was white smoke billowing out of the exhaust and a tapping sound coming from in front of the firewall. I immediately pulled over and got towed back to Charlottesville. AAA towed me to Chris Cole's shop. He checked blow-by, the air filter (with the pooled oil in the base of the filter holder) issue and removed the valve cover. No damage and nothing out of the ordinary. That led him to conclude that the problem was rod, bearing, or piston related, in the "bottom end" and that it would be cheaper at that point to consider the existing F engine a write-off -- without even opening it up to see what was going on -- and to look for a replacement.

So, I still can't say exactly what went wrong. Once I pulled off the road on 12/27, and once it was in Chris' shop (he inspected it on 12/31), it continued to turn over and start, but the metal on metal banging sound coming out of the engine signaled that something was clearly amiss, so we turned it off again quickly each time.

Is a 2F an exact drop-in or are motor mounts or other mods necessary? I have heard that the oiling architecture is better in a 2F (and a bit better power I think), but otherwise, are there other things one would gain with a 2F? You know me, I'm inclined to stay stock unless there is a good reason not to. I did get about 340,000 miles out of that motor so I can't really complain, though I still don't know what failed. I would like to know if there was anything maintenance-wise that I could have done to avoid the engine failure. I would welcome your thoughts. Reid

 

[Jakes40]

That Sucks! When it's time to go it's time to go!
A 2F is a direct bolt in. Get one off a 60 and you get rid of your points distributor aswell.
I'm waiting for my F to die and I have a 2F waiting to go in.

 

[matzell]

Reid, I remember it being low on oil. Have you been checking the oil level? Ever notice low oil pressure? Sounds like it may have been low and lost pressure and flow which would take out the lower end if driving at speed. I will keep an eye out for a F or 2F for you. Want to upgrade to a fuel injected 3FE, might know where one of those is out of a FJ62.

 

[BlueCruiser84]

I know someone trying to sell an fj60 for cheap. I think like $1500? I haven't seen it, but it has 135k on it and a little rusty in the back. You could take what you need and part the rest.

 

[BlueCruiser84]

you might be able to pull off the pan and see something from the bottom. Maybe it just needs some new bearings tapped in there and shell be good for another 200k!!

 

[rambomanor]

Rob, I would really prefer to stick with an F engine, though I am willing to consider the 2F.

BlueCruiser84 -- in what city and state is the FJ60 located? Is it currently driveable? That would be an indication of the engine's health. Something that is in a currently operating truck is more trustworthy than something that has been sitting in a junkyard rusting for 10 years... As for my oil, yes, I knew I was burning oil so I checked it VERY regularly. At the time of the engine's death, it had NOT seized (well, not totally anyway... It still "ran"... even when turned off then on again, several times). Engine level was "F" -- normal. The only anomaly there was that I was using a mixture of synthetic and natural 10W40. As for oil pressure, according to the gauge it had been wavering between "low" and "normal" for about a year. It had not actually been tested. There had been no change -- such as a sharp decrease in pressure -- in the days , hours or minutes immediately prior to the engine failure.

I would still like to hear a bit more about any possible downsides to swapping in a 2F: "available space" in front of the firewall? Oiling system? Torque? Horsepower? I am trying to stay close to stock, but this may be the right time to re-think that commitment.

I want to make the correct decision about the model to buy (F vs 2F) and the individual motor -- so I don't have to first pay for the motor and then, find myself having to pay for a total overhaul before it is usable...

Thanks!

 

[BlueCruiser84]

I'll check into it. I think it has a new inspection. 132k miles. I'll see if it's running/driving.

I'm pretty sure the 2f swap is as straight forward as it gets. Might have to change the transfer case cross member. I had an fj40 with a swapped in 2f. I didn't do the swap though.

There is a TON of info on the fj40 board.

 

[BlueCruiser84]

Welp. Looks like the fj60 that was for sale sold in 12 hours after it was put on craigslist. So that's off the table. Sorry.

You should be able to find a used 2f for pretty cheap if you keep your ears out. Unless you'd rather just ditch that old fj45 boat anchor - I'd come pick it up today!!!

 

[rambomanor]

This 45 is NO boat anchor! If you saw it, you'd understand:

Aquilu aluminum body parts replacing all rotten steel (quarter panels, running boards, bed...)

Steel room - pre-fiberglass

Aqualu aluminum tailgate with storage.

Dolphin gauges

Strike First 5 lb. dry chemical fire extinguishers

Pioneer model KEH-P4020multi=CD control high power cassette player with FM/AM tuner

Pioneer model CDX-P1280 (12 disc) multi-compact disc player

Pioneer tape casette & AM/FM dash unit with 5.25" speaker self-powered sub woofer & kenwood kick panel speakers

Kenwood model KSC-SW10 Sub-woofer

Custom Stainless steel muffler

FJ 40 skid plate/crossmember

New Hella driving lights with IPF covers and rear reverse light on roll bar (single rectangular flood lamp with special wiring harness suited to
this purpose)

new amber front marker light covers

CB

New custom steering box (cut down & tapped) for the power steering is from an FJ60,

31x10.5 Bridgestone Dueller Revo II tires. (LT245/75R17)

new chrome door handles

new chrome billet hood spear

custom fuel gauge/float mated to the tank and calibrated correctly

Longfield Axle super set in front axles (30 Spline 4340 Chromoly Super sets. Turns 40 degrees. 2 birfields & 2 inner axles)

Premier Power Welder that includes its own alternator with an internal regulator

New Power Steering pump

New 650 A alternator for the welding system

15" diameter powder coated rims

The intake and thermostat housing are hi temp ceramic coated aluminum finish

The exhaust manifold was given a flat black hi temp ceramic finish.

The clutch master cylinder was stripped & painted aluminum silver.

New water pump

On-board air(Power-tank)

All new hoses

Window cranks serviced and overhauled

New fuse box (bayonet type)

Custom rear bumper with pintle and 2-5/16" ball, along with 2 recovery points and 3/4" D-Ring shackles.

ARB lockers installed (RD33 carrier bearing & RD124 C-clip)

ARB High-output on-board air Compressor/air activation system S/N # CKMA12 (2102MA12)

All new wiring. (15 Circuit Wiring Kit, complete panel and full wiring kit with heavy 8-Gauge alternator power feed wire and
high heat and abrasion resistant XLPE wire. (Wire withstands -60oF to +275°F) Model: AAW-500703 manufactured by American Autowire

60" Hi-Lift Extreme cast iron jack

Warn M8274-50 winch with 150 ft. of 5/16" cable

Line-X bed (T-335 color code -- blood red), floor, tool box, speaker frames, head liner (no fabric)

Showcase Autobody paint job

IPOR Rear bumper with late model tail lamps and rock guards so the lights are not damaged.

Rebuilt Aisin front axle 4WD locking hubs

new transfer case & input gear as part of 5-speed conversion

new transmission, split case

H55 5-Speed 19 spline output shaft Overdrive Transmission

new emergency brake

new axles: replacing original "ball and claw" axles replaced with the later -stronger-
fine spline side gears mated to the ARB air locker has) and ASAIN lock
outs.

New bearings with 50mm ID to mate with air lockers

ROPS - roll over protective structure -- "roll worthy headache rack"


Media blasting with etching primer followed by rubberization for undercoating.

FJ60 gearbox conversion. Remanufactured FJ60 PS Gearbox

FJ60 PS Conversion (GM Saginaw power steering pump & pully, GM Saginaw PS pump bracket,
GM Saginaw PS pump and cap, High pressure line, Low pressure line and clamps, V-belt and correct width v-belt Pulley,
Steering Column support bearing

78 FJ 40 front disk brakes

FJ60 split transfer case

FJ60 rear spring pack plate/seats

Make me an offer I can't refuse over $100k

 

[BlueCruiser84]

Haha!!! Holy moly! I was razzing you a little bit man. I would trade any vehicle I have ever owned for an fj45. I absolutely love them. There is no way you should ditch that thing!!!

I'd even be happy to drive over the mountain and help you work on it when you find a motor! Seriously. I think it's awesome that you daily drive one.

Brian

 

[rambomanor]

Thanks for the offer. Unfortunately, I don't have any indoor (snow-free ??) place in which to work. I'm going to have to out-source this project. If you hear about another motor in good condition, let me know. I admit, I would be interested in pulling the oil pan and seeing what I can see in the bottom of the engine. I would rather rebuild mine than swap in an unknown one in unknown condition... I know you were only joking about "boat anchor". I just had to defend my pride & joy.

 

[BlueCruiser84]

I would definitely pull the pan. You aren't going to break it any more than it is. Maybe you'll get lucky. Can you still turn it over by hand?

 

[rambomanor]

Yes. Well, I don't know about turning over "by hand" but it turns over using normal keyed ignition. The racket it makes, though, makes it imperative to turn it right back off... Keep the rubber side down!