F engine help

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Joined
Aug 26, 2004
Threads
33
Messages
145
Location
Edmond, OK
I need some help/advice. I'm trying to get my f engine that the PO had sitting for years to turn over. I tried putting Marvel Mystery Oil in the spark plug holes for a long time and got frustrated so I just took the head off today. I put more MM oil on top of the cylinders to see if it will seep down past the rings. I read that if the oil will not pass then that piston is seized and needs to be removed. I also read today somewhere that a bad starter will not allow me to turn over the engine by hand.
1. Does anyone know if this is true?
2. Am I missing something that might cause the engine to seem seized?
3. Any other ideas to get this engine going?

Thanks for your help,
Brian
 
" I also read today somewhere that a bad starter will not allow me to turn over the engine by hand. "


I would avoid any further insite from wherever you read this crap...



" I read that if the oil will not pass then that piston is seized and needs to be removed. "

This is accurate...




So you have the head off now...


Is the engine still in the truck, with the trans/tcase/driveshafts/ etc in place?

could you pull the vehicle and get it rolling, depress the clutch, and put the trans in top gear, third I would imagine, release the clutch and try and bump the engine?

Do not do this at a very high rate of speed.




Typically, if you are not able to free the engine by hand, you will end up needing to tear it down and replace the rusted/stuck pieces.

Good luck!

-Steve
 
Remove your starter, to eliminate that low possibility.

It might just take a long lever to turn it over by hand if it has been sitting. You've done the usual. Now get a socket that will fit your crank nut and a longhandled wrench (breaker bar), a bit of iron pipe to fit over that, and see if you can turn it over by hand.

I guess if that doesn't work, you need to drop the pan and see why it isn't working.
 
And what Steve (Poser) said, too. ;)
 
The engine is still in the Cruiser but I am unable to move it out of the garage. I've tried and tried the breaker with a steel pipe on the end and it doesn't move. So far I can tell that cylinders 3,4,6 are probably fine because MM oil passed through. Cylinders 2 and 5 are at the top so it hard to say if the little amount of oil is passing through. Cylinder 1 looks to be my problem, no to little oil has passed through. I'll let it sit overnight or so and then drop the pan.

I'm planning on replacing the rod bearings and rings while I'm this far apart. Of course a head rebuild and valve job as well.
-Any other things I should do while I have this far apart?
-Best place to get parts from, $OR, CCOT? I looking for quality so that I don't have to do this again any time soon.
-What's the best way to clean the carbon off the pistons with out damaging them?

Thanks for all your help.
Brian
 
Oh,

If you are going to tear it apart anyhow, then drop the pan, and knock the pistons out, and be done with it.


Good luck!


-Steve
 
Here's another vote for CDan for parts. And, I'm sure he'll come to your house to help clean off the carbon, because he is such a great guy!



















OK, well, maybe Seafoam applied directly and light rubbing with one of the 3M pads for taking carbon off.
 
f motor

i had this problem when i got my 72. the owner said the motor still turns over,that was a lie.

as soon as it came i tried to start it up and nothing. so i took it one step at a time. i

droped the pan and removing pistons one at a time. the first and second cylinder spun

a rod . right there i knew why it wouldnt turn over dont know how it melted those bearings but it was bad. depeding on your budget it cost my about 1000 dollars to rebilud the motor, of course it helps if you assemble the motor yourself like i did. here a tip for you or who ever builds the motor do not use the freeze plugs provided in the rebuild kit they suck a** trust me go to toyota a get them there it takes a day. if you do take out the pistons make sure to mark the piston and the cap or put it back on after pulling each piston. overall it took 3 months to get the 40 cruising. another tip dont rush yourself. while the motor is out sand the frame paint it check your motor mounts of course it really is worth all the work. it all looks great once it all comes togther. good luck reply if you have questions :cheers:
 
It's almost NEVER pistons; it's almost always BEARINGS! :eek:

The good news is that if you hang out on the boards, there's almost always another cheap engine around the bend, as there are so many guys doing conversions. IIRC, somebody was offering an engine and 4spd trans together for like $400 just within the last week.

Good luck.
 
Not sure if this would help much, but you might want to pull the dizzy and spin the oil pump with a screw driver minus the handle and a drill. This should put a little lube on the bearings. MIGHT help a bit, but I'm taking a shot in the dark. How long have you let the oil sit? The longer the better. The thinner the oil the better. I've heard diesel works well. I'm not speaking from any experance though, so all advice is suspect :)

Dave
 
Ditto BEARINGS.
I'm pulling apart an F. Had been sitting a long time, unknown history. Tried all the oils and a big breaker bar, wouldn't turn over until I pulled the main bearing caps. Major siezure there.
 
More questions:

-Has anyone honed the cylinder walls while the block is still in their Cruiser?
-Could I just use 400 grit or finer wet sand paper with oil to remove the glaze?
-How do you protect the crank from tiny metal "dust" ?
-And what should I wipe down the cylinder walls and crankshaft with when I'm done to make sure they are clean and ready for the new rings and rod bearings?

Again thanks for your help,

Brian
 
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