Expensive ($5.5k) repairs proposed – looking for advice

[tominboise]

CHeck the condition of the water and the oil. Take an oil sample and send in for analysis. If antifreeze is present, then consider head gasket replacement. But I wouldn't do any of that unless I had proof that the gaskets were bad (steam from exhaust, milk shake oil, bubbles in coolant reservoir, oil analysis).

If the oil sample comes back clean, I'd find a new dealer.....

 

[art5519]

Unless there is something else in the history of your LC that would have damaged the engine, I have a really hard time believing a 5.7L needs head gaskets. For sure get a second (non-dealer) opinion before investing that kind of money. Some of the engines had cam tower leaks, and some LCs have needed starters, radiators, and water pumps. But not head gaskets, or at least extremely rarely.

I got it at Carmax when it was 3 years old and 60k miles, according to records had 1 prior owner. Nothing in records that would suggest any type of over heating etc. Since I had it, replaced: starter, radiator and water pump. With all the feedback I am definitely getting a second opinion. Thanks!

 

[quikag]

5.7 engines are very plentiful between the Tundra, Sequoia, and our rigs. For that kind of money, I’d look at engine replacement at a non-dealer way before spending $5k+ on attempting a rehab on a 150k+ mile engine.

 

[2001LC]

LC200 – 2009 with 150k miles


Came in for an oil change and tire rotation. Also mention to the tech couple symptoms: (1) burning rubber smell by the rear driver’s side, noticed it couple of times and (2) following radiator replacement in spring 2018 I had to add some coolant to the overflow reservoir once. They kept the car overnight, did some tests and sent me a video with technician’s recommendations. Basically, they proposed to replace head gasket along few other items. You can see the video in below link, and I am also attaching a picture for the estimate.

As I am not very savvy in the area, looking for help with below questions:

- How serious is this?

- Do I need to take it in for a second opinion?

- Was planning to take the car for a road trip (Texas to Colorado) in about a month, bad idea?

- Proposed $5.5K seems excessive, should I consider a non-Toyota shop? Perhaps recommendations in Austin, TX?

- Anything else I should be considering done if I am having this done?

Video link: https://photos.app.goo.gl/dJapR5fwLHLUMLyK9


Thanks!!

View attachment 1828031

Am I missing something in video. I just see the engine with cover on. I was expecting to see signs of head gasket leak like dry pink crusty coolant build up, a leak down test and radiator pressure lose test?

Edited: I did see and hear more once clicked on video. But not what I'd want to see before doing such a big job!

 

[art5519]

Am I missing something in video. I just see the engine with cover on. I was expecting to see signs of head gasket leak like dry pink crusty coolant build up, a leak down test and radiator pressure lose test?

Edited: I did see and hear more once clicked on video. But not what I'd want to see before doing such a big job!

Unfortunately that's all I got from the dealer. Based on all the feedback I will take it for a second opinion and will ask for radiator pressure test and leak down test. Thanks for feedback!

 

[2001LC]

Meantime there is a little trick I read about in mud. I've not tried this but would be very interested to hear your outcome and compare to all test you have done.

Here's the trick:
After full 8 hour cool down, remove radiator cap, stretch a balloon over its radiator opening and start engine. Theory is, if a leaky head gasket is allowing coolant in, compressed air should also be force out on each compression stroke. Balloon will start expanding.

Now this video below shows a very obvious blown head gasket. Gases are blowing out heater coolant hose at TEE. I did do compression test just to see what that looked like. It did show cylinders next to each other was main points gasket was blown at, similar to what was said about your #3 & #7 cylinders.

Also when head gasket is blown at/near a coolant port compression gases entering coolant system. This leaves a traceable chemical. The shops and parts stores have a kit to test coolant for this condition.

I'd like to see many confirmation before doing such a major. Who knows, you may get lucky and find a bad coil missing firing.

The smoking at start-up is very common with value guide seal leaks. It would smell like burnt oil. Not ideal but livable for now.

These guys in Dealerships see this stuff daily and may have just made the correct assumptions, feeling no need for further testing (shop time). But they may be wrong. Really a very quick compression test would have been so easy when they first pulled the plugs. I don't understand why they didn't do that, as they suspected something to pull plugs in first place. But if head gasket is/blown. Then I'm in favor of R&R head gaskets, and not just using a head gasket sealer like BlueDevil. Not that a sealer will not work, it's just I don't care for that kind of remedy. Many may say, "you've recommend ATP 205 Reseal". Yes I have, but that is a plasticize that adds back what time has depleted from rubber seals. Heck, I'd even try that on bad value guide seals, not that I have. Problem with value guide seal leaks, is they don't go bad so early in life without extend cause and effect generally. Like not keeping up with oil/filter, air filter PM or overheating.

The thing you said that concerns me the most, is the radiator failure. Whenever I see coolant issue my attention goes into checking for warped heads and heat damage.

Good luck and please keep the broad informed.

 

[2001LC]

Unfortunately that's all I got from the dealer. Based on all the feedback I will take it for a second opinion and will ask for radiator pressure test and leak down test. Thanks for feedback!

You'll want:

1. Dry & wet compression test.
2. Leak down test
3. Short term and Overnight leak test on coolant system
4. Chemical test of coolant.
5. Oil test for coolant

 

[linuxgod]

I'd definitely get a second opinion. Especially if your coolant is clear (or red) and not milky

You mention needing to add some coolant to the radiator overflow once. That's pretty normal after a radiator replacement. The dealer will refill the radiator and even top off the overflow, but there can be some air in the system that has to get "burped" out. I checked my overflow a week or two after mine was replaced and it was nearly empty. I didn't have any coolant handy but I put in a pint or so of water and it's fine now. 50/50 mix would've been better but given the capacity of the cooling system I figure I'm at 48/52 or something. Unless you need to keep adding coolant this is just a red herring.

I suspect the burning rubber smell is a small oil leak somewhere (could be engine oil, could be diff oil, etc). It only takes a drop or two of oil onto a hot exhaust to stink like mad. Easiest way to find it is to degrease the engine.

 

[2001LC]

I'd definitely get a second opinion. Especially if your coolant is clear (or red) and not milky

You mention needing to add some coolant to the radiator overflow once. That's pretty normal after a radiator replacement. The dealer will refill the radiator and even top off the overflow, but there can be some air in the system that has to get "burped" out. I checked my overflow a week or two after mine was replaced and it was nearly empty. I didn't have any coolant handy but I put in a pint or so of water and it's fine now. 50/50 mix would've been better but given the capacity of the cooling system I figure I'm at 48/52 or something. Unless you need to keep adding coolant this is just a red herring.

I suspect the burning rubber smell is a small oil leak somewhere (could be engine oil, could be diff oil, etc). It only takes a drop or two of oil onto a hot exhaust to stink like mad. Easiest way to find it is to degrease the engine.

Sorry for high jacking thread.

I agree topping coolant level is always needed after any work where coolant has be drained and is so important. I really push on everyone to check coolant level in radiator and top, after 8 hour cool down from full operation temp with cabin heater full hot and run engine at 2K RPM for 3 minutes or more.

I've got my neighbors Land Cruiser in my driveway now. I did a Full Flush along with radiator & hoses, thermostat, heater Tee & hoses replacement job, finishing 2 days ago. But I know he's the type that will not check coolant so I'm keeping until I'm sure it's completely burped.

The video I posted above, I'll never know why the engine overheated and blew for sure. But I've evidence it was due to a Toyota Dealership flushing and air was not burped completely by OP. A Toyota Dealership then wanted $13K + to replace the engine 20K miles later at 127K miles.

Using de-minerleizled water like distilled water or just Toyota coolant (best). But never using tap water not even as a flush, is a big pet peeve of mine. If I suspect a coolant system has had "any" tap water, I flush and start over again. For the Toyota LL (red) used in the pre 2003 models, 50/50 mix of de-minerleizled water & 100% red is recommended by factory. In the Toyota SLL (pink) which only comes in pre mix 50/50 from 2003 +, they just say do not add water. But IMHO de-minerleizled water is ok in pink provide dilution is no more the 5% (45/55%) if topping is needed.

 

[art5519]

Sorry for high jacking thread.

I agree topping coolant level is always needed after any work where coolant has be drained and is so important. I really push on everyone to check coolant level in radiator and top, after 8 hour cool down from full operation temp with cabin heater full hot and run engine at 2K RPM for 3 minutes or more.

I've got my neighbors Land Cruiser in my driveway now. I did a Full Flush along with radiator & hoses, thermostat, heater Tee & hoses replacement job, finishing 2 days ago. But I know he's the type that will not check coolant so I'm keeping until I'm sure it's completely burped.

The video I posted above, I'll never know why the engine overheated and blew for sure. But I've evidence it was due to a Toyota Dealership flushing and air was not burped completely by OP. A Toyota Dealership then wanted $13K + to replace the engine 20K miles later at 127K miles.

Using de-minerleizled water like distilled water or just Toyota coolant (best). But never using tap water not even as a flush, is a big pet peeve of mine. If I suspect a coolant system has had "any" tap water, I flush and start over again. For the Toyota LL (red) used in the pre 2003 models, 50/50 mix of de-minerleizled water & 100% red is recommended by factory. In the Toyota SLL (pink) which only comes in pre mix 50/50 from 2003 +, they just say do not add water. But IMHO de-minerleizled water is ok in pink provide dilution is no more the 5% (45/55%) if topping is needed.

Thanks for all the advice man! Really appreciate it. When I added water last time I used it from my home's reverse osmosis filtered system, should be ok.

I've made few calls today to schedule a second opinion and will likely get it done this week. Will update the thread when I get some info.

 

[AnthonyLC]

@art5519 how did this all go? I'm looking at a newer model that had the head gaskets replaced at 110k. I'm guessing over zealous dealer?