Exhaust manifold pitting thoughts?

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Joined
Nov 21, 2015
Threads
73
Messages
548
Location
Needham ma
Hi everyone. This little bit of pitting going on here is a little bit of a concern to me. I ordered the OEM gasket which I think will be fine. Do you guys think I should order a remflex as a backup just to have in case it leaks? That way I don’t have to wait another five days for it to arrive. What do you guys think?
Separately, I ran a straight edge across the whole thing. Everything looks nice and straight.

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The previous advice is solid, I would not use that until it's been machined flat.
My thoughts after chasing leaks in a factory manifold is to consider using a new header. Factory manifolds are 50ish years old and leak through the ears on the end, through the heat riser bushings, have old bolts that the down pipe secures, are brittle from so many heat cycles, and in your case rusty. Just a throught before you go spending money on a 50 year old piece, consider replacing it.
 
The previous advice is solid, I would not use that until it's been machined flat.
My thoughts after chasing leaks in a factory manifold is to consider using a new header. Factory manifolds are 50ish years old and leak through the ears on the end, through the heat riser bushings, have old bolts that the down pipe secures, are brittle from so many heat cycles, and in your case rusty. Just a throught before you go spending money on a 50 year old piece, consider replacing it.
Have you all had good luck running header? What about the flapper valve that heats up the fuel on the OEM set up? I keep hearing that they run rougher and have a harder time warming up with a header. How true is that?
 
I made a fluid heat riser to replace the flapper. No more carburetor ice in the fog. You could plane that manifold with sand paper on a big sheet of glass. I install the gasket after I soak it in warm water for like a half an hour - lets the high spots dig in easier. Let engine heat up to dry it. Retorque then after several heat cycles retorque it again.
+1 for a curtain in front of the radiator. Easy to move up or down to adjust.
 
There is some evidence of rust jacking going on there. Over time along with all the heat cycling a manifold goes through, I'd bet my lunch that manifold is warped. Its certainly pitted enough that if used as-is, those gaskets probably aren't long for this world. That manifold needs to be surfaced to be reused if you want it to reliably seal. With this shared design like a lot of uniflow inline engines, the intake needs to be surfaced with it. Probably more cost effective to replace it or put a header on it. You could put a heat blanket on a header but I wouldn't wrap it unless it is stainless. Header wrap will rust a mild steel header fairly quickly.
 
Is it an issue always or only during really cold weather?
In my case it was many years ago in Colorado at single digit or very cold days.. ice would actually form on the venturi (SD40). I made mine out of a block of aluminum. If you never drive below freezing or very much you would probably be fine as long as you have a manual or automatic choke that works.
 
my header is the SS header from sor.... I don't know if they still make it.... but trimeki? that is a Mark A/Downey header is also SS

I highly recommend a SS header.... been through several steel ones over 30 years... they all rot


just checked and no more sor SS headers.... but here is Trimeki:


 
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Wow I didn’t even check the price… that is crazy

The sor one is ceramic coated steel … but you can get the header pipe muffler and tail pipe and everything a complete system for less … almost half that price … how times have changed when Sor is the cheaper option :meh:
 
I done know about these guys …but… this one is also SS it looks like and only 500

 
I've been running the Downey header for about 25 years now. Maybe more, I forget exactly. My original exhaust manifold cracked and broke in 1989, I tried a couple different headers before I got the Downey, I find it superior to the others available at the time. If it showed any sign of failure I would replace it with the Trimeki. Had it surfaced, along with the intake, when I got a valve job couple years back. Still solid.
I have not had a problem with cold weather operation. Naturally, I block off some of the radiator with a piece of cardboard in the wintertime. I always leave time to warmitup and don't move it until the temp gauge needle moves.

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