Build Euro 1HD-FT Turbo Diesel/H151F 5 Speed Manual LHD 96' USA Swap

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Were BEB's still problematic in the 24 valves? I know a lot of HDT owners have to replace them.
 
Anyone can chime in here but I think that was one of the many things that Toyota addressed when they came out with the 24 valve. For what it's worth, I'm planning on having all the crank bearings checked once this engine is installed. If they're OK, I'm not going to mess with them.
 
OK, I just read the torque spec for the crankshaft pulley and it's 362ft/lbs!!! How in the world is the average person supposed to remove that?

I have a 1" drive air impact which I believe is rated to 450ft/lbs but I'm having doubts about even having success with that based on how frozen (I suspect) the bolt to be.

Does anyone have input on how to proceed here? I obviously can't pin a breaker bar between the frame and bump the starter since this is out of the truck. Heat?? I'm not too concerned about damage to the pulley as it's junk already. DON'T want to damage the crankshaft or break/round off the bolt though.
 
Disclaimer: I am a total hack and destroy more stuff than I fix...

Heat and a mega impact might work...I dunno if anyone else does this but I have removed quite a few similar condition bolts by drilling a small hole in to the center of the bolt before hitting it hard with the impact. Also if the head of the bolt snaps off there is a hole already in the bolt to continue drilling for an easy out or etc., vs. attempting to drill in to a snapped off ragged bolt head. It seems like drilling may make the bolt more prone to the head snapping off, and it may, given the circumstances it may be a good option?

Another option is welding a nut on top of the bolt head, I have read it is effective but never tried it.

I just don't have much luck with the repeated cycles of heat and penetrating lube. Keep us posted and congrats on the acquisition!
 
The pulley is toast so weld a chunk off round bar to it with a long piece off water pipe for leverage. A good quality 6 sided impact socket with a 3/4 or 1 inch breaker bar with more water pipe for leverage. Also give the bolt a couple good smacks with a hammer to jar the thread you can heat the pulley putting heat in the crank and freeze the bolt with the presser can type dry ice.
Good Luck :)
 
Rock40 said:
Anyone can chime in here but I think that was one of the many things that Toyota addressed when they came out with the 24 valve. For what it's worth, I'm planning on having all the crank bearings checked once this engine is installed. If they're OK, I'm not going to mess with them.
Click to expand...

That is what some say, but, from my research, some 1HD-FTs had BEB failures in OZ. If I was you, I'd pull the oil pan and replace them while it's out. A set of TaiHos is $60.00, it's not worth the risk of a top-end rebuild at minimum in my opinion to not do them, especially when the engine is out.
 
I can recommend the taihos too. Great quality Japanese bearings. I have used these in my 1hdfte and my mechanic uses them in his 1hzs, 1hdts, 1hdfts and 1hdftes.

Good score on the engine and trans but looks like oil changes and pm wasn't to high on the POs list of things to do.
 
Rock40 said:
Anyone can chime in here but I think that was one of the many things that Toyota addressed when they came out with the 24 valve. For what it's worth, I'm planning on having all the crank bearings checked once this engine is installed. If they're OK, I'm not going to mess with them.
Click to expand...
STQOD (stupid question of the day): why would you wait until the engine is installed? Seems it would be a helluva lot easier to check the rod and crank bearings with the engine in a stand rather than installed in the truck.
 
To add to my post above you need to feel this one out rather then rattle gun it. Welding a nut on after the s*** hits the fan also works well from my experience with broken exhaust, waterpump studs etc.
 
Rock40 said:
View attachment 1143206

Rather embarrassing looking water pump......
View attachment 1143207
Click to expand...

You ought to call your local dealership and try to explain what kind of WP that you need without using a part #...

Also on a more serious note, I did not reinstall the foam on my 12ht swap. I guess Mr. T put it on to help with vibrations but I don't believe it is critical. Plus it looks kinda grungy.
 
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elkaholic said:
STQOD (stupid question of the day): why would you wait until the engine is installed? Seems it would be a helluva lot easier to check the rod and crank bearings with the engine in a stand rather than installed in the truck.
Click to expand...

No question about that. I for one, just don't feel very comfortable in my ability to mic that kind of stuff out with any kind of accuracy. I do however, know several people "somewhat" locally who build high end racing engines/or are expert diesel mechanics. The idea was to bring the engine in for an inspection. If that doesn't make practical sense, I'll find another route.

Thanks for the bearing suggestions too. My understanding is the current bearings need to be checked and the correct kit (size wise) needs to be ordered. Is that correct? Again, I'm rather new to this foreign diesel stuff.
 
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mcguirejohnson said:
You ought to call your local dealership and try to explain what kind of WP that you need without using a part #...

Also on a more serious note, I did not reinstall the foam on my 12ht swap. I guess Mr. T put it on to help with vibrations but I don't believe it is critical. Plus it looks kinda grungy.
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LOL, I have a replacement pump already, I was just remarking that the unit looks suspiciously "penis like". Sorry, childish I know ;)
IMG_1477.webp

ozcrusier said:
To add to my post above you need to feel this one out rather then rattle gun it. Welding a nut on after the s*** hits the fan also works well from my experience with broken exhaust, waterpump studs etc.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the suggestions on the frozen bolt. I'm going to first try the oxy/acetylene heat route followed by giving it a few sharp raps with a hammer followed by a large impact gun. If that doesn't work or the head rounds off, I think welding a large nut on will be a next step. I need to source up a 31mm or 32mm 6 point impact socket though in a least a 3/4" drive first
 
Realize it may be a major PITA, but loading up the engine and hauling to someone you trust to check the bearings will be significantly less time consuming and costly than going through an install, then having to pay someone to at least partially take apart all your hard work to check the bearings ... and IF the crank bearings need to be replaced, it likely all comes back out of the engine bay.

My $0.02 worth of web-wrenching ;)
 
elkaholic said:
Realize it may be a major PITA, but loading up the engine and hauling to someone you trust to check the bearings will be significantly less time consuming and costly than going through an install, then having to pay someone to at least partially take apart all your hard work to check the bearings ... and IF the crank bearings need to be replaced, it likely all comes back out of the engine bay.

My $0.02 worth of web-wrenching ;)
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OK, point taken. I'll alter my plans and get this taken in sometime in the near future.

And here's a pic of the foam which is packed all round the engine. It's gross, it's getting tossed out
IMG_1478.webp


Also on the list to do: the turbo intake and intake manifold are fairly gunked up with carbon deposits from the EGR circuit. The parts are going in this week to be hydrojetted and cleaned out. After that, no more EGR....
IMG_1480.webp

IMG_1479.webp
 
STOP!!!!!! Do not heat up the crankshaft bolt!!

Get the engine upside down on a stand, some failures of the big end bearing have been documented but nowhere as bad as the 12 valves. Remove the sump and wedge wood between a crank throw and block.

Now get a 'proper' hardened six sided socket and then tear up pieces of your best porn mag, lay a piece over the crank bolt and push the socket over it, keep laying on the paper until you have to tap the socket on with a mallet, only now use your rattle gun, or very long bar and of course hurl foul language at it, then it will undo but, if you use heat it tends to anneal the metal in the bolt head and it softens and rounds or snaps off...not advisable right? When all tightened up now replace the big end bearings, they are so cheap it would be IMO foolish not to do it right now.


Next, the UK version got a serious clutch and as per my PM the 24 valve got a larger version than the 12 valve, the pressure plate takes some serious effort to release, UK versions had a servo on the clutch pedal, a smaller version of the brake servo, with the engine off it will be quite an effort to operate the clutch comfortably, with the servo and the engine running it is as easy a typical saloon car.

regards

Dave
 
Dave 2000 said:
STOP!!!!!! Do not heat up the crankshaft bolt!!

Get the engine upside down on a stand, some failures of the big end bearing have been documented but nowhere as bad as the 12 valves. Remove the sump and wedge wood between a crank throw and block.

Now get a 'proper' hardened six sided socket and then tear up pieces of your best porn mag, lay a piece over the crank bolt and push the socket over it, keep laying on the paper until you have to tap the socket on with a mallet, only now use your rattle gun, or very long bar and of course hurl foul language at it, then it will undo but, if you use heat it tends to anneal the metal in the bolt head and it softens and rounds or snaps off...not advisable right? When all tightened up now replace the big end bearings, they are so cheap it would be IMO foolish not to do it right now.


Next, the UK version got a serious clutch and as per my PM the 24 valve got a larger version than the 12 valve, the pressure plate takes some serious effort to release, UK versions had a servo on the clutch pedal, a smaller version of the brake servo, with the engine off it will be quite an effort to operate the clutch comfortably, with the servo and the engine running it is as easy a typical saloon car.

regards

Dave
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Thanks Dave, I will try this method first. I have a correct 32mm, 3/4" drive impact socket on order, it should arrive this week some time. I'm also not a fan of heating the bolt and I will try other methods before I resort to that. With the large amount of torque the bolt was originally set to and the fact that it has likely welded itself in place at this point, that may be the only way which will work. Thanks for the suggestion on blocking the crank in place with wood, that hadn't occurred to me.

The 24 valve clutch/flywheel assembly is much larger that the 12 valve stuff. I have all those parts new currently, they're just sitting on the shelf waiting to be installed. I did notice that the 90' HDJ81 my buddy imported from the UK has the small vacuum booster on the clutch master cylinder. It's a very "normal" feeling shift. When I purchased my clutch master, I referenced a VIN from OZ and apparently those truck didn't use a vacuum booster. They were equipped with the same sized clutch components a the UK trucks though. We'll see how it goes when it's all done and ready to drive.
 
Glad to be of help, the clutch weight will only make itself felt when sitting in traffic for example but, the difference with and without the booster is like night and day, and you may have become a namby mamby sissy having been spoilt with auto trans? :D

regards

Dave
 
I find it hard to believe you have a 1'' impact with only 450 lb ft of torque. My 1/2'' drive IR has something to the tune of 550-600 ft lbs and would probably bust that crank bolt loose without having to wedge anything. On a gas motor you would leave the spark plugs in and make it fight against the compression in order to break that bolt loose. Not sure on a diesel but it should work the same. Of course the last two I took off were on automatics and i just jammed the flywheel with a 14mm socket then cracked the big bolt with a breaker bar. As for your BEB's, if its only $60 for a set, why not just replace them while the motor is on the stand ?
 
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