euclid's 80
- Thread starter euclid
- Start date
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Gold package (Memphis/Jackson bling) was almost as much as lockers....interesting.....
Nice job.
Bomar
SILVER Star
Great start! I love that truck. Great combo blue/grey.
Why does sway bar look purple?
Good work Greg.
Good work Greg.
euclid
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #48
Just about finished with a basic tuneup. Holy s*** that fuel filter is a PITA. Removing the DS front tire and going in through the wheel well is what finally worked for me.
Waiting on the right o2 sensor for downstream, a thread in the 80 forum lead me wrong on those.
It's been years since I really enjoyed wrenching. This thing seems so much more straightforward than my 100 was when wrenching. Maybe because it's a straight 6 and therefore feels more familiar.
Waiting on the right o2 sensor for downstream, a thread in the 80 forum lead me wrong on those.
It's been years since I really enjoyed wrenching. This thing seems so much more straightforward than my 100 was when wrenching. Maybe because it's a straight 6 and therefore feels more familiar.
I have a new 80 fuel filter came with tune up kit
I started and gave up.
I started and gave up.
euclid
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #50
Got to use the 80 last week. JG and I spent 5 nights on our friend's sailboat near Mobile. We used the canoe to paddle around Dog river and to some restaurants near the Marina. Working on refinishing the Teak on the boat. Nice to be able to haul all that gear, tools and materials in such comfort in the 80.
How did the truck do?
euclid
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #53
I have new o2 sensors on and now I'm getting a code for the knock sensor. Those things are pretty damn expensive and I haven't sorted out a direction. Used is the direction I'm leaning now. What say y'all? OEM and Napa are way expensive. I want the check engine light off and I think it could get better mileage than it's getting, 9.
Still need to correct the castor. @Land Speeder and @beno told me the castor plates I had were too much. @FJ60Cam said no to bushings. Plan is to have 49 press in the yellow bushings that came with the truck and see what happens unless y'all change my mind.
Still need to correct the castor. @Land Speeder and @beno told me the castor plates I had were too much. @FJ60Cam said no to bushings. Plan is to have 49 press in the yellow bushings that came with the truck and see what happens unless y'all change my mind.
Yellow bushings should work good. They just won't last that long if you wheel it regularly.
Does it have any caster correction now? A little too much is better and safer than not enough.
If you have Chris put it on his alignment machine, it will give you the exact degree of caster you have now - that will tell
you which method of correction will provide enough.
If you have Chris put it on his alignment machine, it will give you the exact degree of caster you have now - that will tell
you which method of correction will provide enough.
I always had good luck with the bushings.
I've got a set of control arms here if that would save down time.
I've got a set of control arms here if that would save down time.
First, are you sure the CEL is not as a result of the most common reason they come on on an 80 (RE: EGR issues? P0401, I think?)
Second, the yellow ARB bushings I installed on my green '95 didn't do a whole lot to correct things. Many recommended either the Slee blue bushings or the caster plates.....and I think the caster plates would be preferable. Cam's also correct: take it to 49T and let Rob tell you what needs to be done. He's never steered me wrong before (see what I did there?
)
Second, the yellow ARB bushings I installed on my green '95 didn't do a whole lot to correct things. Many recommended either the Slee blue bushings or the caster plates.....and I think the caster plates would be preferable. Cam's also correct: take it to 49T and let Rob tell you what needs to be done. He's never steered me wrong before (see what I did there?
)
My reason for avoiding bushings was based on seeing the pics of mangled bushings in the 80 section (which means spending the money a second time to replace them), and complaints of still having twitchier than stock steering.
The OEM bushings are typically a lifetime part for most of these
vehicles.
My logic: the plates retain the OEM bushings and will put you firmly in the safe zone as far as having enough castor for a 2-3" lift. I have 4" of lift up front, and still wish I had a just little more caster than the plates provide, but I'm picky and like to drive fast. They'd provide rock solid steering for a 3" lift.
The price is pretty much breakeven (if you have to pay to press the bushings out).
The OEM bushings are typically a lifetime part for most of these
vehicles.
My logic: the plates retain the OEM bushings and will put you firmly in the safe zone as far as having enough castor for a 2-3" lift. I have 4" of lift up front, and still wish I had a just little more caster than the plates provide, but I'm picky and like to drive fast. They'd provide rock solid steering for a 3" lift.
The price is pretty much breakeven (if you have to pay to press the bushings out).
heckler
SILVER Star
I agree, go with the plates. The bushings are a pain and you are going to wish you had the rubber OEM ones back.
As far as the knock sensor, I broke one in the past while doing the PHH and ended up buying one form cruiseryard.
As far as the knock sensor, I broke one in the past while doing the PHH and ended up buying one form cruiseryard.
euclid
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #60
Need some advice here, folks.
I smacked the catalytic converter on a rock at the crawl. Busted both of the rubber isolated thingy's that hold the exhaust to the truck, no big deal.
Also made an exhaust leak between the cats. I hoped that a new gasket would fix it, but no-go. It looks like the front catalytic, which is part of the y-pipe exhaust manifold that bolts to the engine, had some rust on it. On the top side of the flange on the front cat where the gasket goes the flange crushed down just enough to make it leak, even with a new gasket. I don't have the cheddar for a new y-pipe and front cat. I tried some red gasket maker at the last meeting but it blew out pretty quick. Maybe I didn't let it sit long enough.
Anyway, I've replaced the rubber isolator thingys. My plan is to put another new gasket in and try to fill in the gap with a strip of this stuff by JB Weld.
Anyone used that stuff? Work? Another product that will work better? The gap is only about 1/16th of an inch. I'll be applying it in a little roll like play-dough just above the exhaust gasket between the cat's and then bolting the catalytics together.
I smacked the catalytic converter on a rock at the crawl. Busted both of the rubber isolated thingy's that hold the exhaust to the truck, no big deal.
Also made an exhaust leak between the cats. I hoped that a new gasket would fix it, but no-go. It looks like the front catalytic, which is part of the y-pipe exhaust manifold that bolts to the engine, had some rust on it. On the top side of the flange on the front cat where the gasket goes the flange crushed down just enough to make it leak, even with a new gasket. I don't have the cheddar for a new y-pipe and front cat. I tried some red gasket maker at the last meeting but it blew out pretty quick. Maybe I didn't let it sit long enough.
Anyway, I've replaced the rubber isolator thingys. My plan is to put another new gasket in and try to fill in the gap with a strip of this stuff by JB Weld.
Anyone used that stuff? Work? Another product that will work better? The gap is only about 1/16th of an inch. I'll be applying it in a little roll like play-dough just above the exhaust gasket between the cat's and then bolting the catalytics together.