Enigmatic Crank no start

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Joined
May 6, 2024
Threads
6
Messages
33
Location
Queensland, Australia
Hi,


I got an issue with the 80 series and it seems that I can't find the origin of it.
Long story short:

Toyota Landcruiser 80 series 1991
Engine: 3-FE 4.0L Petrol
Transmission: Automatic


The vehicle started to have difficulties to start, I had to turn the key completely and maintain it for several seconds, and this happened randomly for a while, like one month.
Since two days, the car doesn't want to turn in. The engine light is lighted up on the dashboard as it should when i turn the key once.
The battery is fine, the crank is strong. It doesn't smell petrol when i insists.

I replaced:
- Fusible cables
- Fuel pump
- Fuel Pressure Regulator
- Igniter

Those are parts I had already in the shed, they didn't improve the situation.
I assume if the engine light is on on the dashboard, it can't be the EFI fuse.

I took a paperclip and did the OBDI diagnostics which gave me:
- 12, 51

The 51 issue should be connected I assume to an other old air intake issue I had since always with the rig, so from there I assume it's the 12 one.

I reckon then it could perhaps be the distributor ?
I trying to check the pickup coil right now but the connector is a hell to unplug.

What do you reckon it could be ?
 
I reckon then it could perhaps be the distributor ?
I trying to check the pickup coil right now but the connector is a hell to unplug.

What do you reckon it could be ?
Codes 12 and 13 point to the pickup coils in the distributor, but I would also check continuity from the distributor connector back to the ECU.
Is there corrosion in the distributor under the cap?

1764248545120.webp
 
I reckon then it could perhaps be the distributor ?
I trying to check the pickup coil right now but the connector is a hell to unplug.

What do you reckon it could be ?
Codes 12 and 13 point to the pickup coils in the distributor, but I would also check continuity from the distributor connector back to the ECU.
Is there corrosion in the distributor under the cap?
1764248591442.webp
 
Hi,

here's an update:

-I've tested both G and NE on the distributor terminal and I got: 240ohm for both
-I've opened the distributor and this is how it looks like:
20251204_130626.webp

20251204_130444.webp


Also,
I've tested my ignition coil because it was easy to access, it was a bit off on the multimeter, so I replaced by an OEM tested succesfully I got for free when I bought the igniter on Cruiserparts.
 
Here is the interior of the cap
20251204_154129.webp


I just noticed the engine light is now off when I turn the key on. I have an EFI relay somewhere, I'll change it to see if it changes anything.
 
Here's my dashboard now.
20251204_161203.webp

I changed the EFI relay with a old one I had in the toolbox, didn't change anything.
I checked the EFI fuse, it was still ok.
 
Ok I tested with the multimeter the relays and fuses:
- EFI fuse: perfect continuity
- EFI Relay 1: between 1 and 3 terminals: 95ohms
- EFI Relay 2: between 1 and 3 terminals: 284ohms

edit: I went back to test the accessories, horn is good, wipers good, but headlights dead somehow
 
Last edited:
Ok in this thread, jonheld shared this schema:
1748897524040.webp


What I understand now is that I just fried my new fusible link I just installed one week ago while playing around the electrical.
 
I finally managed to fix it this morning.
I installed the new OEM Fusible link and now the car is happier than ever. The issue I was circling around since one year (rough idle) disappeared too,
I finally idle below 1000rpm this is marvelous.

It was the ignition coil.
It was a Repco spare part, I excluded it because it was not older than one year, but it was already gone, if we trust the multimeter.
The new one come from Cruiserparts. Changing the igniter with an OEM one helped it too I believe.

I'm happy it wasn't the distributor, it looks like pain to deal with. May it stay where it is forever.
 
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