Engine started knocking shortly after replacing oil pump

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fjwagon

fjwagon

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I need help diagnosing an engine knock a 1986 22re with IFS. Here's a quick summary:

The oil pressure started fluctuating about a week a ago. So I decided to ran transmission fluid in the crankcase for about 10 minutes to help clean it some. The oil pressure stablized but went back to same problem but not as bad. I also noticed some metal bits when draining oil. Upon removing old oil pump I noticed it's gears were scrorched. Anyhow, oil pressure is a lot better with new one but the engine started knocking. It's loud and was not there before replacing the oil pump. Could it be possible I screwed something up when installing the oil pump? I have no dripping oil if that matters.

I also removed the valve cover to do a visual check and tried looking for anything loose, found nothing obvious. I'm thinking about dropping the oil pan but not sure if have to remove the middle part of the axle to get to it or is there a better way?

What would cause it to do this? Any ideas?
 
Hmmm, there's not much to mess up when changing an oil pump. Does it knock all the time now? If the oil pressure is better than before, any chance of knocking should have been lessened.... Mine used to knock, but is a lot better now with a new pump, and only knocks for a few seconds on start up....
 
the 86 requires a lift kit. best way to get the pan out. :grinpimp:
it is possible to unbolt each motor mount and hoist the engine up as high as you can. for saftey put some wood block between thee frame and the mount.


with metal shaving we hope it was from the pump, but the sound you hear tells elsewhere.
i suspect the crank bearings :frown:

what would cause this?
inferior oil filter, or oil, lack of maintanence, sucking in debris thru dirty air filter.
 
yeah the intial sound when it starts up is normal.

we had a oil pump thread come through a while ago, and the guy asked what the dots were for on the pump. it is nothing more than to confuse you. then he said he was leaking oil all over the place after new one was installed. turns out he installed a seal wrong. but that could easily have been avoided. so what im saying like jerod just said, its a hard install to mess up.
 
Thanks for the responses:). I'm pretty much screwed. Yeah, I was confused about the dots as well. My initial thoughts were maybe I had to set it TDC so I pulled the manual and reread it again to make sure. And yes after removing and replacing the oil pump assy. I've come to the conclusion it's a pretty straight forward install but the engine knocking put a damper my thoughts will quick. However, I did noticed that the drive spline slid out some when I removed the drive gear from the oil pump. Would that have anything to do with it. I put it back in it's place and buttoned up. I also torqued it to 10 ftlbs and the crankshaft pulley to 115 ftlbs

I use wix filters from Nappa or whoever sells them. But on the last oil change I installed a moble 1 filter instead.


I have never replaced the bearings but looks like the next step. Do I replace all the bearings and seals? Is that easy to do? After removing the oil pan is the anything else I have to do before removing the bearings? I have an engine hoist so I will try going that route. Again thanks so much for the help.
 
Once the pan is off, the oil pick up tube is the only thing in the way... It's really not a bad job, but you either have to guess what size bearings are in there, or pull it and check, then get bearings..... Unless you know it's an original engine. I ordered stock and .010 over and just returned the ones I didn't use. You can probably get the pan off without dropping the diff (may have to drop the oil pick up into the pan to get the pan out...), but it'll be a pain to change bearings around it.....

Now go to bed! :D
 
Loose pulley hardware caused the engine to knock.

So it's fixed after I did a partial drop of the IFS's diff. I figured out that the PS pulley that mounts on top of the crankshaft pulley was loose.:doh: Tightened the loose hardware like I was suppose to in the first place. Anyhow, I was releived when I discovered this. And since differential was hanging, went ahead and dropped the oil pan or at least make it look like that was the plan:D. The oil pick's screen was clean and rempoved some metal shavings at the bottom. The shaving seem to come from the old oil pump. I did not remove the main bearings and the piston sleeves looked normal. So I buttoned it up this morning and it is working like it should. Thanks for the help. All I need now is to research the torque values on the IFS's differential.
 
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