Engine RPMs while wenching?

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Engine RPMs while winching?

Putting a Hand Throttle in my 60 tomorrow. Did a search on RPMs while WINCHING could find no info.

I figure 2000 RPM? 2K would have the stock Alternator worked up pretty good. What's the general rule?
 
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flintknapper

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Putting a Hand Throttle in my 60 tomorrow. Did a search on RPMs while wenching could find no info.

I figure 2000 RPM? 2K would have the stock Alternator worked up pretty good. What's the general rule?


If you're a married man...I don't know if you should be out "wenching" at all. :D

Main Entry: 1wench
Pronunciation: \ˈwench\
Function: noun
Date: 14th century
1 a: a young woman : girl b: a female servant
2: a lewd woman : prostitute



But... when I am "winching" I set my hand throttle at 1200-1500 rpm. I run a 100 amp. alternator and have dual batteries. So, your needs may vary.

2000 rpm sounds a tad high to me.
 

REKCUT

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When you use a winch you need to make sure its getting max power. The best way is a good battery and a good gauge to make sure you are putting out the power. I personally find that 12 to 15 hundred work fine with my set up
 

rusty_tlc

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Putting a Hand Throttle in my 60 tomorrow. Did a search on RPMs while wenching could find no info.

I figure 2000 RPM? 2K would have the stock Alternator worked up pretty good. What's the general rule?
What kind of winch?
What is the current draw?
The stock alternator in a 2F puts out 45 Amps, a stock SBC alt puts out around 100Amps.
As an example the 12V Warn XD9000 draws 460Amps at max load (9000#)
330Amps at a more realistic 6000# load.
The battery is where it's at.

Forget the hand throttle and get a good starting battery with the most cold cranking amps you can find. Stay away from deep cycle batteries for winching they are designed for slow deep discharge.
 
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Oh crap..man I know how to speil winch..can't believe I did that, again:eek:..

But note taken about the 15-20 min wenching...If my wife lets me get out...I'm going to edit the first post in this thread..that will fix it for me:grinpimp::flipoff2:
 
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What kind of winch?
What is the current draw?
The stock alternator in a 2F puts out 45 Amps, a stock SBC alt puts out around 100Amps.
As an example the 12V Warn XD9000 draws 460Amps at max load (9000#)
330Amps at a more realistic 6000# load.
The battery is where it's at.

Forget the hand throttle and get a good starting battery with the most cold cranking amps you can find. Stay away from deep cycle batteries for winching they are designed for slow deep discharge.

It's a 8274...My battery is fine. I've read threads and instructions where folks keep the alternator turning enough to put a charge back on while winching...

I don't plan on loading up the winch and running it for any long time spans...not gonna be any body's "winch bitch"..my rigs electrics are stock. Every time I've run the winch up to now I've just shut it down and run off the battery. If a 2min run time over a 10 min time span is gonna kill my battery then so be it. but, if I do get in a situation where I've got to use if for extended time (meaning off and on power for what ever reason, long enough to drain the battery and not re-start the rig) I was asking what to run the RPMs up too to actually do a little good at keeping some juice going into this system..

1200-1500rpm sounds reasonable..

It's late here in OR and I gotta get back to my wench...

HD
 
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alia176

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I concur with Rusty, forget about the Alt helping out much - I'd recommend a huge battery (or two), heavy duty welding cable for powering up the winch and pay out as much winch cable as possible to make the winch work less.
 
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I concur with Rusty, forget about the Alt helping out much - I'd recommend a huge battery (or two), heavy duty welding cable for powering up the winch and pay out as much winch cable as possible to make the winch work less.


Okay, that's all been done from the get go. Battery, Snatch Block, new heavy cables made as short as possible to cut down resistance.

Not going duel batteries unless/until I start using the rig a whole lot more.

Thanks

JON
 

rusty_tlc

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One great thing is batteries are much smaller nowadays. I have a battery with 25% higher CCA than the stock battery and it is lost in my battery tray. From what I've seen most of us will be fine with a stock single battery set up. Unless you get into competition winching.

:idea:Or competition wenching. Theres one we probably won't be seeing in the summer Olympics. :lol:
 
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So my wife reads the first couple of Post where I innocently used the word "wench" instead of WINCH. Of course she reads where you guys were oh-so-politely trying to figure out what I was talking about.

She says "So that's what I get for letting you buy all that crap for that damn jeep, you get winches and lifts and boxes, then your asking you "buddies" about whores and how long it'll take you to get one, and what the charge will be! You can start sleeping in that damn thing!"

So thanks "Buddies" I'll go tuck my self into my "jeep" now....
 
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Bogo

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Forget the hand throttle and get a good starting battery with the most cold cranking amps you can find. Stay away from deep cycle batteries for winching they are designed for slow deep discharge.

Any AGM style battery will do as they all have thin high surface area plates. The nice thing about AGM batteries is they can dish out high current loads better than most other cell structures.
 

Josie'sLandCruiser

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Hi All:

I'm a bit confused here. I use a high CCA rated deep cycle battery because I was under the impression that normal lead-acid automotive batteries were not designed for repeated drain-downs and recharges; that this sort of activity would damage the internal plates of the battery, while deep cycle cells are designed for repeated drainings and recharges.

Regards,

Alan

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<snip>

The battery is where it's at.

Stay away from deep cycle batteries for winching they are designed for slow deep discharge.
 

Bogo

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Hi All:

I'm a bit confused here. I use a high CCA rated deep cycle battery because I was under the impression that normal lead-acid automotive batteries were not designed for repeated drain-downs and recharges; that this sort of activity would damage the internal plates of the battery, while deep cycle cells are designed for repeated drainings and recharges.

That is true except for AGM style lead acid batteries. AGMs get you most of the best traits from of both starting and deep cycle worlds, but flatten the wallet.:) They don't have quite the long term life expectancy of a true deep cycle battery. On the other hand they can put to shame most battery styles in long term high current output like winching would need.
 

Josie'sLandCruiser

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Hi All:

"Bogo," what does "AGM" mean?

Is this like the gel-cell Optima batteries?

Thanks!

Alan

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That is true except for AGM style lead acid batteries. AGMs get you most of the best traits from of both starting and deep cycle worlds, but flatten the wallet.:) They don't have quite the long term life expectancy of a true deep cycle battery. On the other hand they can put to shame most battery styles in long term high current output like winching would need.
 

rusty_tlc

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Hi All:

I'm a bit confused here. I use a high CCA rated deep cycle battery because I was under the impression that normal lead-acid automotive batteries were not designed for repeated drain-downs and recharges; that this sort of activity would damage the internal plates of the battery, while deep cycle cells are designed for repeated drainings and recharges.

Regards,

Alan

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Deep cycle batteries aren't designed for quick discharge. A starter battery has thinner plates which will discharge faster. Winches use a lot of current in a short period of time, just like the starter.

Deep cycle batteries usually have a lower CCA rating for the same size but a higher RC. The reserve cranking amps are pretty worthless for winching.

Optima use to have a nice write up about this on their site but I can't find it now.
 

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