Emergency Brake light won't stay off... (1 Viewer)

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I switched to an 80s series rear axle. The eBrake handle has a single terminal that must ground the circuit. I was able to reuse and modify my 60s series switch and has worked great for years now. Should I run a jumper from the red w/ white tracer from harness to switch and see if that changes anything.
 
When I noticed the problem I first checked the eBrake handle. Set brake and BRAKE light gets bright, release and it dims but still illuminated.
With the E-brake off,
Turning on the 60 the BRAKE lights up but turn over and start the 60 the BRAKE goes out. I can lift the handle and BRAKE goes on but release and it goes out. Once I drive a short distance the light comes on.
 
Having the 60 idle and the BRAKE light stays of but if I rev the engine up and down and the 60 rocks a bit the light comes on. The harness in the kick panel is unattached so that leads up behind the dash or into the engine compartment where the disconnected brake fluid sensor was. Does anybody know if the wires to that sensor are the same? Red with white tracer?
 
Black w/ yellow tracer with ignition off has continuity to ground. Turn ignition and no continuity and after starting. Install bulb and it lights up.
Tested with 12V tester and no power, til second click in ignition then the black w/ tracer lights up.
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i believe the brake handle and the brake pin switch are both adjustable

have you un-pluged the handle pin switch to see if that is the culprit



circuit isolation or device isolation TOYOTA calls the Split Half Search Method
 
i believe the brake handle and the brake pin switch are both adjustable

have you un-pluged the handle pin switch to see if that is the culprit



circuit isolation or device isolation TOYOTA calls the Split Half Search Method
Yes
I’ve unhooked both the harness at the parking brake handle switch and the harness inside the kick panel.
Yes I’ve been working on that split half search method.
 
Last edited:
Yes
I’ve uncooked both the harness at the parking brake handle switch and the harness inside the kick panel.

any change at all ?
 
Turning ignition over 2 clicks and BRAKE light turns on but after starting the 60 the BRAKE light turns off, lift parking brake handle and light came on, take parking brake off and light goes off. Volts were at 14. Rev the throttle up a few times and the BRAKE light comes on and the volts drop to 12.5 volts. Remove the fuse to the BRAKE circuit and volts stay at 12.5volts. The battery was on the 1.5 amp charger all night, battery was fully charged. After pulling BRAKE fuse I see the seatbelt warning light is also on that circuit. I’m wondering what else is tied into this circuit. For some reason my BRAKE light is indicating the problem and when it comes on does not turn back off and is preventing my alternator from charging the battery. Nobody else has experienced this problem?
 
My BRAKE warning light came on last weekend while driving around. I pulled the brake handle to set the parking brake and the light gets brighter. Take the parking brake off and it dims.
If I turn off the 60 then reapply power to the ignition with the parking brake off the BRAKE light will be on. Turn the key and the light goes off. Parked I can lift the parking brake handle and the light goes on and take the eBrake off and BRAKE light goes out. Once I drive a short distance, less than a 1/4 mile the BRAKE light comes on again. Play with the Ebrake handle and it doesn’t do anything. Unplug the connection to the brake and it stays illuminated. My brake fluid float is removed and has been fine ever since the swap. It’s not allowing my alternator to charge the 60 and draining my battery. Help before the weekend would be great to give me places to start or similar issue that somebody solved.
thanks
Jason
Was reading your post, and thinking holy sh*t, I'm dealing with the EXACT same issue on my 87. @Hojack did you get yours resolved?
 
Was reading your post, and thinking holy sh*t, I'm dealing with the EXACT same issue on my 87. @Hojack did you get yours resolved?
I had a short on an ignition wire and my alternator went out in the process.
 
Funny you mention that because my battery charger light is on now, even though the battery isn't very old, so it's obviously not getting the 12v it wants from the alternator. Also, now the motor wants to crap out in 2nd gear unless I gas the hell out of it. Any thoughts or advice?
 

Here’s a video I shot of mine. I converted my 60 to diesel mind you. Starting my 60 it’d idle at ~14.6V. Once I rev the throttle then the BRAKE light would come on and the volts would drop off.
I’d check your alternator before it weakens and damages your battery in the process.
 

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