E-locker Third removal

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Broski

Broski

I love Wheelin my 80
SILVER Star
10 Year
Joined
Dec 3, 2015
Threads
89
Messages
10,939
Location
At the edge of the Pacific ocean
I trying to remove the front third, everything is disconnected and all nut removed.
I can get about a 3/8" away from the housing but then it just stops, it's seem to stuck on the two long studs that go through the e-locker.
I have it two previous times over the years, But I can't seen to figure out what's holding it.
I don't want to Damage the mating surfaces prying on it. and honestly I been prying on it harder then I like already.
Is there something I'm missing ?
All thoughts and suggestions appreciated.
Thanks Broski
 
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Don't you have to lock the thing to get it apart? Or something similar? Never worked on one, just recall something about that from reading old threads.
 
greentruck said:
Don't you have to lock the thing to get it apart? Or something similar? Never worked on one, just recall something about that from reading old threads.
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Good Call.
I stabbed the axles back in locked the locker, pulled the axles back out and the third came out. Did not want to admit my mistake but hopefully this might help someone else. ;)

Cheers
 
This is why it needed to come out.
1625539239452.webp
 
OGBeno said:
Pay to play..
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Yep, It's my first major brake in five years of wheeling the 80. And I'm OK with it. Have more trips planed so gota get it fixed. ;)
 
-Spike- said:
Factory gears? Do you know what caused the failure? Reverse under load?
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No, 5/29s and I'm on 39s
I think it happened pulling my friend that snapped his rear drive shaft at the Rubithon
I pulled him from before the little sluice to Buck 🤷‍♂️
 
Broski said:
No, 5/29s and I'm on 39s
I think it happened pulling my friend that snapped his rear drive shaft at the Rubithon
I pulled him from before the little sluice to Buck 🤷‍♂️
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I personally don't think you exceeded the capabilities of the truck, especially since we're talking about the front diff- unless you tried to pull him in reverse. I'd say it was more likely that you didn't have enough preload on the carrier, either due to the install or worn components. Either way I'd pull your rear diff and assess it/have it assessed at the same time as the front.
 
-Spike- said:
I personally don't think you exceeded the capabilities of the truck, especially since we're talking about the front diff- unless you tried to pull him in reverse. I'd say it was more likely that you didn't have enough preload on the carrier, either due to the install or worn components. Either way I'd pull your rear diff and assess it/have it assessed at the same time as the front.
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I think it's great that you have so much faith in our trucks.
My friends Reg is a 80 also both truck were loaded for a 4 day excursion. My friend Shoppy truck is set up more as a OverLander with all the bell and whistles and easily weighed in at 7500 to 8000 Lbs.
Then there the shock load, it was extremely difficult to keep the strap tight over the rough terrain of the Rubicon. I will be looking into getting a Kinetic rope.
The Gears were set up by a professional shop that specializes in Gears only (American Gear) and they both have less then 4K miles on them 🤷‍♂️
Most people on the board think that 39s with 5/29s are enough to grenade the 8" Ring and pinion.
And no I did not pull him in reverse.
There's no way to really know what happened to break the gears. I didn't even know there was a issue tell I got back to the pavement. Just guesses.
 
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Broski said:
I think it's great that you have so much faith in our trucks.
My friends Reg is a 80 also both truck were loaded for a 4 day excursion. My friend Shoppy truck is set up more as a OverLander with all the bell and whistles and easily weighed in at 7500 to 8000 Lbs.
Then there the shock load, it was extremely difficult to keep the strap tight over the rough terrain of the Rubicon. I will be looking into getting a Kinetic rope.
The Gears were set up by a professional shop that specializes in Gears only (American Gear) and they both have less then 4K miles on them 🤷‍♂️
Most people on the board think that 39s with 5/29s are enough to grenade the 8" Ring and pinion.
And no I did not pull him in reverse.
There no way to really know what happened to break the gears. I didn't even know there was a issue tell I got back to the pavement. Just guesses.
Click to expand...
It happens. Not too bad to set up the front gears yourself if you need to DIY by the way
 
Broski said:
I think it's great that you have so much faith in our trucks.
My friends Reg is a 80 also both truck were loaded for a 4 day excursion. My friend Shoppy truck is set up more as a OverLander with all the bell and whistles and easily weighed in at 7500 to 8000 Lbs.
Then there the shock load, it was extremely difficult to keep the strap tight over the rough terrain of the Rubicon. I will be looking into getting a Kinetic rope.
The Gears were set up by a professional shop that specializes in Gears only (American Gear) and they both have less then 4K miles on them 🤷‍♂️
Most people on the board think that 39s with 5/29s are enough to grenade the 8" Ring and pinion.
And no I did not pull him in reverse.
There's no way to really know what happened to break the gears. I didn't even know there was a issue tell I got back to the pavement. Just guesses.
Click to expand...
I do have faith in the trucks, but that's not where I'm coming from. Most of the strain is on the rear axle when moving forward. It is entirely possible that everything was set up correctly and you managed to break the front (weaker) gears, but that type of damage often occurs when the ring and pinion flex away from each other, which can happen when the tolerances are loose. Pro shops can make mistakes just like anyone else, and they hire people to do the work, not robots, and they don't all have the same skills, have off days, forget stuff, whatever. Also, whenever something breaks, you have to look for the simplest explanation. You just had new gears installed. A poor setup is the main reason gears fail.

There are ways to figure out what caused the gears to fail. A good tech can check the tolerances and determine if the setup was loose, bolts were not torqued properly, etc. If that's the case, the shop should take responsibility. But, it's your truck, I'm just here to give advice on things I have some experience with. Take it or leave it, doesn't matter to me.

If you want to discuss this with an expert, contact Ken (Zuk) at gearinstalls.com. I'm not saying you need to use him, but he's very good with differentials and is willing to share his knowledge. He may be able to tell you what to look for.
 
-Spike- said:
I do have faith in the trucks, but that's not where I'm coming from. Most of the strain is on the rear axle when moving forward. It is entirely possible that everything was set up correctly and you managed to break the front (weaker) gears, but that type of damage often occurs when the ring and pinion flex away from each other, which can happen when the tolerances are loose. Pro shops can make mistakes just like anyone else, and they hire people to do the work, not robots, and they don't all have the same skills, have off days, forget stuff, whatever. Also, whenever something breaks, you have to look for the simplest explanation. You just had new gears installed. A poor setup is the main reason gears fail.

There are ways to figure out what caused the gears to fail. A good tech can check the tolerances and determine if the setup was loose, bolts were not torqued properly, etc. If that's the case, the shop should take responsibility. But, it's your truck, I'm just here to give advice on things I have some experience with. Take it or leave it, doesn't matter to me.

If you want to discuss this with an expert, contact Ken (Zuk) at gearinstalls.com. I'm not saying you need to use him, but he's very good with differentials and is willing to share his knowledge. He may be able to tell you what to look for.
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I get it and I'm always open to hear what others have to say.
And I'm taking it back to the shop that did the work.
I did not just have the gears installed the were done in 2015, my Reg is a street legal trail Reg not a DD and I wheel the piss out of it taking to places like JV (the hammers) Sand hollow, Dusy Ershim and all the trails in the Sierra's and I tow it to the trails
In short all the miles are wheeling miles with 37s or 39s with the low range gears and under drive gear sets plus the 5/29s
I think Matt (the owner of the shop) is a honest Guy. I well ask him to check the setup and see what he thinks !!!
Thank you for you input that's what the board is all about. I also think it hard to know from one Picture and a few post to know what caused the damage
Cheers
 
It would be interesting to see them gears cleaned up and then brush on that yellow gear set up paint to see what the pattern is now...
 
-Spike- said:
If you want to discuss this with an expert, contact Ken (Zuk) at gearinstalls.com. I'm not saying you need to use him, but he's very good with differentials and is willing to share his knowledge. He may be able to tell you what to look for.
Click to expand...

I had Zuk setup my front gears 7 years ago and they're still holding up. Here's his write up on my install: FZJ80 Nitro Gear Install Toyota - http://www.gearinstalls.com/jose.htm

I had the rear gears done locally but I wanted the front done by Zuk given his expertise and how delicate the front R&P can be. But just how my luck goes, I bet next trip I grenade them like Broski did haha.
 
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