i adjusted mu E rake per FSM a few years ago and it felt good. For some reason i cant remember i messed with it and it was crap after that. I tried doing it again and it didnt really work out well. Today i did it again and it worked out great.this is what made the difference.
So this is what was wrong with mine. It is hard to diagnose until you get it right. But i had the arm adjusted to tight. So it was always a little "activated". In order to compensate for that i had to have the "star" adjusted too loose. In the end i had drag in the system with not enough activation when the lever was pulled.
What i did was pulled the rotor. I really didnt want to but just could not get it right with out doing this. Now i think it is 100% key for the first time you do it. With the rotor off manipulate the lever and set it up with most of the slack removed. But NO expansion of the brake shoes. then lock it down. Now clean the disk. set it back on the hub. Now is a new problem. The 94 lug nuts will not hold the rotor down. You need to make some type of spacer shim to fit under them. The rotor really needs to be held down true. I used some old large nuts, some crappy rubber gaskets, slices of PVS, What ever. it does not need to be exact. Just put solid pressure n the rotor.
Now spin it and adjust the star nut. That is really about it.
really the key was adjusting the arm. I had mine adjusted all wrong. the other important thing. Turn the Star super loose befor trying to remove the rotor. If not super loose the shoes will hang onto the rotor and bind the s*** out of the whole thing. It will eventual brake the pins and small parts. but the worst part is that it will make it really hard to get the disk off. Just make the star nut supper loose. There is small rust deposit lip on the inside of the disk that likes to grab the brake shoes.
Just loosen the star nut a lot and make sure the shoes dont grab the inside of the disk as it is pulled off.
I dont often have much to contribute to the forum So hopefully this helps somesone.
So this is what was wrong with mine. It is hard to diagnose until you get it right. But i had the arm adjusted to tight. So it was always a little "activated". In order to compensate for that i had to have the "star" adjusted too loose. In the end i had drag in the system with not enough activation when the lever was pulled.
What i did was pulled the rotor. I really didnt want to but just could not get it right with out doing this. Now i think it is 100% key for the first time you do it. With the rotor off manipulate the lever and set it up with most of the slack removed. But NO expansion of the brake shoes. then lock it down. Now clean the disk. set it back on the hub. Now is a new problem. The 94 lug nuts will not hold the rotor down. You need to make some type of spacer shim to fit under them. The rotor really needs to be held down true. I used some old large nuts, some crappy rubber gaskets, slices of PVS, What ever. it does not need to be exact. Just put solid pressure n the rotor.
Now spin it and adjust the star nut. That is really about it.
really the key was adjusting the arm. I had mine adjusted all wrong. the other important thing. Turn the Star super loose befor trying to remove the rotor. If not super loose the shoes will hang onto the rotor and bind the s*** out of the whole thing. It will eventual brake the pins and small parts. but the worst part is that it will make it really hard to get the disk off. Just make the star nut supper loose. There is small rust deposit lip on the inside of the disk that likes to grab the brake shoes.
Just loosen the star nut a lot and make sure the shoes dont grab the inside of the disk as it is pulled off.
I dont often have much to contribute to the forum So hopefully this helps somesone.
