a 30+yr old Sears Kenmore dryer
might be 35+ years...
do i need to go down and check the exact model? I will...
Model number isn't necessary. Probably a 90% chance that the drum rollers are toast - they're kinda like rollerblade wheels that the rear of the drum rolls on. Should be about $15 for the full kit at any appliance repair store.
Here's the quick rundown. This is from memory and I haven't done appliances for a while, but it should be pretty accurate.
Pull the dryer away from the wall at least 8" or so to begin with.
If the lint filter goes through the top, pull it out and remove the 2 screws that hold the ducting to the top panel.
Crouch down level with the top-panel-to-front-panel seam and using a putty knife (or butter knife) inserted into the seam, push in on the two spring clips that hold the top panel down. Then lift the top panel up like a car's hood and rest it against the wall. It sounds more difficult than it is - just feel around with the putty knife until you find the clips.
Before you go any further, start the dryer and watch the drum to see if you can pinpoint what's wrong. Like I said, I'm pretty sure the rollers are bad, but it doesn't hurt to look for other possible problems along the way.
Unplug the power cord.
Look inside along the front panel and find the wires to the door switch. Pull them off the switch. Also: note the position of any wire clips that you remove since you'll want to put them back to keep those wires from shorting out on the rotating drum.
Inside the body, there are two screws (5/16 hex - one on each side) that hold the front panel to the side panels. They should only be about 2" from the top. Remove them.
Now you're ready to pull the front panel off. There are little clips at the bottom of the front edge of both sides that the front panel sits on, so you need to pull the top out and up. The drum isn't retained to the front panel - it just rides on felt sliders around the door. Set the front panel aside.
Now get a flashlight and take a good hard look at the belt and the configuration of the motor pulley and tension/idler pulley. I'd recommend taking a digital picture just for reference. The tension/idler pulley will almost certainly come unhooked from where it sits and you'll have a hell of a time figuring it out without some frame of reference.
Release tension on the belt by moving the tension pulley, and slip the belt off the motor pulley.
Stand up and grab the now loose belt and use it to lift the drum up (to get it off the rear rollers) and slide it out through the front of the machine. Set it aside.
Pick up change from the bottom of the machine.
Now you can see the support rollers that I'm guessing are no longer smooth and round. There are little spring clips of some sort holding them on - don't worry about saving the clips since the new rollers come with new clips.
Put it all back together with new rollers and marvel at how much quieter it is.
HTH,
Eric