Drivetrain issues

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I was wondering what could be the cause of a slight bucking/ jerking in my drivetrain while making slight right turns (¼ turn on wheel) on the highway under throttle? This doesn’t happen at low speeds or if the wheel is turned hard over.

Thanks
George
 

LandLocked93

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I was wondering what could be the cause of a slight bucking/ jerking in my drivetrain while making slight right turns (¼ turn on wheel) on the highway under throttle? This doesn’t happen at low speeds or if the wheel is turned hard over.
So holding the wheel straight, under throttle, @ highway speeds...no bucking/jerking?
 

LandLocked93

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I’ll give it some grease but I pretty sure it’s been done in the last 6-8 months
Last 6-8 months??
Son we're talking a grease before every outing how U derin?
This ain't no Prius you're piloting.

edit:admittedly this is a bit macho-mechanically-sympathetic...mms for short.
 
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Dave 2000

Not all Land Rovers are useless!
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A 1/4 turn of the steering wheel could be a driveshaft sticking in the CV, or a dry CV, or even a buckled wheel/tyre damage. I would get under there and check the lower and upper bolts on the hub knuckles and look for loose wheel bearings. I don't think the prop shafts would notice the rotational difference with such a small movement of the steering wheel and straight ahead under load?

Regards

Dave
 
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A few months later and my drivetrain bucking is even worse, now it’s noticeable on all right hand turns even at low speed like turning a corner. I’ve eliminated the drive shafts as I have pulled out one at time and locked my CDL no difference at all. Could this be a dying transfer case I do have a leak but I keep topping it off? Other than that the wheel bearings, knuckles, steering components all look fine. At low speeds it’s like a jerking with a little hesitation, there is nothing felt in the steering wheel and no abnormal noises. This only effects right hand turns only so wouldn’t a bad transfer case effect left and right hand turns in the same manner?

Thanks
George
 

Dave 2000

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Do you have the viscous fluid coupler in the transfer box? as these start to seize it gives the same symptoms, It can be removed with some simple tools and a pair of IIRC circlip pliers? Don't drop it on your foot though.

Once out reassemble the back of the transfer case and your job done. You can if you wish simply buy a new one and replace whilst in there, of course this will mean giving up your first born, or missing a couple of payments on your mortgage!

Regards

Dave
 
Joined
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Messages
565
Location
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Do you have the viscous fluid coupler in the transfer box? as these start to seize it gives the same symptoms, It can be removed with some simple tools and a pair of IIRC circlip pliers? Don't drop it on your foot though.

Once out reassemble the back of the transfer case and your job done. You can if you wish simply buy a new one and replace whilst in there, of course this will mean giving up your first born, or missing a couple of payments on your mortgage!

Regards

Dave
Dave thanks for the information. The viscous coupler is still in there as far as I know, I’m a third owner and it doesn’t look like anyone has been inside of it. If I remove the VC what will I be missing, I mean Toyota put it in there for a reason. Could my transfer leak from the transmission input shaft seal contributed to its failure?
 

Dave 2000

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Dave thanks for the information. The viscous coupler is still in there as far as I know, I’m a third owner and it doesn’t look like anyone has been inside of it. If I remove the VC what will I be missing, I mean Toyota put it in there for a reason. Could my transfer leak from the transmission input shaft seal contributed to its failure?

OK just to clear up some misconceptions, the 80 is only four wheel drive when ALL four wheels have traction, lift just ONE wheel (for example a rear wheel), the vehicle will not move, power will be lost through the three differentials....unless there is a VC or viscous coupler or you engage the centre differential, then as the lifted wheel starts to spin the silicone in the coupler (or locked CD) causes the lost drive to be transferred to the front axle where there are two wheels on the floor, the drive is not 'solid' if it is the VC it is more like a slipping clutch to drag the vehicle onto firmer ground/allow the ABS to work/reduce drive line shunt and so forth, whatever the reason take your choice. Engaging the CD will turn off the ABS but will give you solid front wheel drive. Remove the VC and you will probably never notice it to be honest, you could as mentioned fit a PT kit, but why, I have yet to have seen any advantage to having one?

If you can get one (VC) cheap and simply want your 80 as it should be then buy and fit it....job done.

Regards

Dave
 
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You will loose all wheel drive.

It semi connects the front drive train to the rear.

I have a couple of vc if you need one.

You can also remove it and add a part time kit.
Id be interested in the VC’s that you have if it is indeed my problem. Are they new or used?

Thanks
George
 
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Currently I have my rear driveshaft removed and CDL locked so by that fact I can eliminate the VC from being the problem because the rear transfer output is locked to the front and not attached to the rear axle, or am I missing something? I noticed today that when I get that bucking in the driveline I can feel movement in the Hi/Lo selector and the motion is front to back none side to side. I’m at a total loss of what this could be!
 

Dave 2000

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No you are not quite right there, leave the CD unlocked and try to pull away, the VC will transfer 'some' drive to the remaining connected axle, but it will feel like you have a serious transmission slip if the VC is working correctly but the vehicle will move albeit slowly, by using the CD you have defeated the VC or if you like bypassed it? If the car seems to pull away pretty much normally without the CD then you have found your problem.

Regards

Dave
 

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