Drawer setup

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Joined
Sep 13, 2003
Threads
109
Messages
2,149
Location
Wichita, KS
I have had several inquiries about the drawers in the back of my 80. They're not quite finished but here are some pics and info for those interested.

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The latch pulls are being replaced with welded "T" pulls. Much of the countersunk hardware will be replaced with aircraft hardware (100* countersinks vs. 82*) because of final fitment issues.
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The drawers are setup for removable partitions. One item I will need to add a pic is the easy setup I came up with to keep the drawers open when the nose is pointed down hill. Once I get another pic I'll stick it in here.
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This stuff is essentially like aircraft seat track and works great for tie-downs.
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Pitposse has the best prices for the seat track, tie down anchors and quick disconnect feet. The best part is that this stuff is adjustable to suite the load size and they're good to 2000lbs if installed well. The only down side about these tie down systems is that they use 100* countersunk fasteners which cannot be found at HD or Lowes, hence the need for aircraft hardware. This is not to say that it won't work but the fasteners just won't be completely flush with the track or anchors. In the first pic you can make out some of the round anchors, four per box on the outside edge.

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After trying a couple different ideas to keep the box latched and closed I settle on swing gate latches. These things have been very secure and positively retain the drawers even on steep inclines. The 3/8" bolts worked out well for the fixed side of the latch. As mentioned above the cable latch pulls are being replaced with welded "T" handles, first because they will look much nicer and secondly they will make for a cleaner opening procedure.

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The 36" 250lb. drawer slides are from Lee Valley and have worked very well and support any weight I have dumped in the drawers. The price was excellent and when I had to return the extra set they were a pleasure to deal with.

If there are any questions this is the place to ask. I'm certain that some of the questions asked so far are ones that others have on their minds, this way all of the info is available.

Cheers,
Kris
 
Great design and fab job!!! I would like to see how you integrate a mechanism to keep the drawer(s) open when the rig is nose down; that would be useful on my AO drawers!
 
very cool! I like the use of the gate latches. For a simple way of keeping them open drill a hole in the top through and into the top edge of the drawer when its open and then you pull the drawer out and drop a pin in. simple and effective.
 
Thanks guys.

Chet,

You're on the money. I did just that and capped the section with aluminum "C" channel, it can sort of be made out in the 2nd pic on the OB side of the drawer. I will take a pic and add it.

The seat track and small round anchors can be used on just about anything. They are a good size to fit between the corrogations in the cargo floor sheet metal, that way they don't stick up too much.
 
Live to Ski,

I used the existing nutserts for the 3rd row seating floor latch points, four bolts per box.

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Socalfj,

I'll have to put something together because I didn't keep track for fear of the wife finding out. Once she saw the prices for pre-made boxes she was suddenly ok with whatever I wanted to do. I would guess somewhere in the $300 - $400 range but I'll try and narrow it down.
 
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Here is how the drawers stay open when nose down an incline. There are two locations to pin each drawer, half open and full open. It's simple and works well.

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Live to Ski said:
Well, I don't think the floor mount technique will work for the 60 crowd. Anyone out there have any mounting ideas that don't involve drilling/mod's to the floor for the 60 rigs?
Drill it, bolt it with fender washers, a little silicon seal....no worries.

We won't tell anyone. ;)

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Here's scary flashback circa 1997 ???
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Check out my roll out drawer write-up from the good old days
 
Drill the floor, prep and paint it. You could even make some gaskets from a tire tube or silicone seals. If it weren't for the existing nut plates I would have drilled. It's not like it's a brand new truck or a 10 point show truck (well maybe it is), just go for it.
 
Well, I don't think the floor mount technique will work for the 60 crowd. Anyone out there have any mounting ideas that don't involve drilling/mod's to the floor for the 60 rigs?

I believe if you pull back the carpet you'll see where the sheet metal is stamped to receive a bolt down or bolt through, they may not be in the right location based on your drawer design but they might. I don't know the purpose of these bolt down locations, somebody else may know that answer. HTH
 
I couldn't find all my receipts but they were consistant with the $300 - $400. I would actually lean closer to the $400 but it depends on how extravagant or detailed you choose to go. Oh, while it's on the brain you can take ~$120 off the top if you don't use the same tiedown setup. That alone would make it easier to stomach.
 
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