Door Lock Actuators

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Mar 11, 2026
Threads
3
Messages
28
Location
Portland, OR
Has anyone successfully used a power door lock actuator for a 2000 Tundra in their 98-02 100 series?

I'm having an issue with the door lock actuators characteristic of other posts I've read on the topic. They central locking works strongly on the first lock/unlock cycle, but is progressively weaker if cycled in rapid succession. After 3 or so quick cycles the drivers door lock is no longer strong enough to actuate. If I wait 30 seconds or so it will function properly again.

A new left front lock actuator assembly is $300+ from toyota (Part #69040-60081).

This YouTube video describes how to inexpensively replace just the actuator motor:



I noticed these inexpensive aftermarket actuator motors available on amazon ($25ea.), that appear to be identical. Has anyone tried them?


Has anyone found long term success with the YouTube motor replacement hack?

Here's the YouTube link, not sure why it isn't working above...

How to Fix Car Door Lock Actuator $5 - Repair Replace Weak Locks - Land Cruiser LX470 Toyota Lexus
 
I used a cheap set of ebay motors and swapped them all last summer. $25 is way too much for a single.
 
So it's not the electric motor only, so the cost makes sense with it being the whole assembly. Like I said, I had mine out last weekend, it looks just like that one, would be interesting for someone to get one and see if the 3 screw holes line up as well as the wiring harness.
 
I'll give the Tundra lock actuator "motor assembly" a try and report back. Waiting on rubber window glass runs from Japan to crack open the drivers side door.

Q: When just the driver's door lock actuator is replaced with a fresh motor, does that tend to also cure the issue with the other locks not actuating? They seem to be sympathetic to each other's struggle somehow after sever rapid lock cycles, but then regain their strength after a period of rest.
 
Q: When just the driver's door lock actuator is replaced with a fresh motor, does that tend to also cure the issue with the other locks not actuating? They seem to be sympathetic to each other's struggle somehow after sever rapid lock cycles, but then regain their strength after a period of rest.
It is unlikely the rest will start working with the new driver motor.
 
Question if anyone is still out there... I replaced the door actuator motors on the passenger side doors, both. They will both lock, then automatically return to the unlock position. Any thoughts?
 
what glue or other method are you guys using to re-seal thehousings when you are replacing the motors ?
I just did all of mine as soon as I bought the truck last month. I used <$5 eBay motors & then used super glue to glue the cases back together. Have not had any issues at all. All of them now work perfectly, knock on wood.
 
Question if anyone is still out there... I replaced the door actuator motors on the passenger side doors, both. They will both lock, then automatically return to the unlock position. Any thoughts?
I'm not sure if this is your problem but on the front passenger door there is a "lock position sensor" that sits on the back side of the keyed cam lock inside the door panel. It's possible it became dislodged?
 
what glue or other method are you guys using to re-seal thehousings when you are replacing the motors ?
I used LocTite UltraControl Gel super glue on the housings. I didn't go too heavy; several drops around the case where it comes together, then clamped the case for 20 minutes before re-installing. No failures after a few years.
 
I used JB Weld epoxy with metal in it and either it didn't work or I didn't go heavy enough because after two years, in the heat of this summer the case peeled open. Went with the full Aisin replacement assembly this time instead.
 
Question if anyone is still out there... I replaced the door actuator motors on the passenger side doors, both. They will both lock, then automatically return to the unlock position. Any thoughts?
Mine was doing the same thing. I'm no authority on anything in this world but I'll try to help. The system is saying "something isn't locking" so it opens it back up. I replaced my actuators and the entire driver's assembly and had to overcome the sensor on the keylock inside the door(broken clip). What finally fixed everything was, broken wires in between the driver's door and firewall. There are some videos on this. I butt-spliced the broken wires as a temporary fix and it fixed everything. Since yours is passenger's side, you might check both driver and passenger side wires. It is inside a rubber cover. You should work the cover out into the bottom of the door.
 
I used JB Weld epoxy with metal in it and either it didn't work or I didn't go heavy enough because after two years, in the heat of this summer the case peeled open. Went with the full Aisin replacement assembly this time instead.
How is the Aisin assembly holding up? I replaced the actuator motors in 4/5 doors but driver side latch mechanism is not fully closing so want to do a full replacement. Tried greasing it but still not getting a good latch. Was looking at OEM for ~$300 but $150 is much more appealing.
 
Has anyone tried ABS glue? I used loctite plastic epoxy on all 5 doors and one separated after a few months. Upon inspection the epoxy did not grab the plastic much at all. I replaced it with an AISIN actuator assembly which looked exactly identical to the oem original.
 
Back
Top Bottom