Build Dom’s Build Thread

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Joined
Oct 26, 2025
Threads
1
Messages
10
Location
denver
Starting this thread so I can document my ownership with a new-to-me 2006 GX470 (133k). I've been looking for a GX for about a year and a half, and recently found one that I was really fond of so I pulled the trigger. Previous owner might see this, what's up man.

When I purchased the GX, it had roughly 133k miles. This thread will mostly be focusing on the mods/accessories/build aspect of things, and less focused on the maintenance (though I'll probably include things as they pop up, but I'm not going to get into the maintenance history of the truck). Here's what was already done to the truck:
  • Billstein 6112/5160, with a 2in lift
  • Freedom Offroad UCAs
  • Durobumps on all 4 corners
  • Full ceramic window tint
  • Interior LED bulbs
  • Prado front grill
  • Well visors
  • Tinted tail lights
  • eBay roof rack
Because this will be my daily driver (gave my x3 m40i to my fiancee), I've decided to spend some cash to help bring the rig into this decade (along with a handful of other functional mods). Here's what I plan on doing in the next few weeks:
  • T'Eyes CC4 Head Unit (ordered)
    • I got in contact with a representative from T'Eyes who was able to sell me the new CC4 unit along with the OEM-style fascia/faceplate with the radio cutout. The CC4 should be the latest and greatest.
  • T'Eyes Backup Cam (ordered)
  • Ditch Lights + Brackets (ordered)
    • Picked up some Auxbeam ditch lights, and CBI Offroad brackets
  • Chase Lights + Brackets (ordered)
    • Auxbeam chase lights, JWOffroad brackets
  • Speaker Overhaul (ordered)
    • PowerBass OE-690D Speakers, MB Quart XK2 Tweeters, SKAR Sub, Metra Front Speaker Adapters, Metra Wiring Harnesses
  • Ride Height Switch Replacement & OEM-style switches(ordered)
    • Switch replacement from SBE Precision, switches from CH4x4. Will be wiring the ditch lights & chase lights up to these switches, which will live where the ride height adjustment switch usually is. Really excited for this one.
There are a handful of other things I plan on doing, like designing and fabbing a no-drill rear table (ORS's is $600?????? That's crazy), finding some rock sliders, and eventually installing the SIenna/LX powered rear vent windows. Will also be touching up the paint as best I can :D

I plan on being as detailed as possible while I document the process of getting all these things done. They're not anything novel to the community, but nothing wrong with adding to the collective knowledge.

Also looking forward to taking it on the first trip as soon as I can find the time. Lots of travel the next few months.
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DITCH LIGHTS

Ditch lights done....for the most part. Will add pictures in a bit.

Mounting the CBI Offroad brackets wasn't too much of a pain - I like that they're solid-mounted and not on the bottom of the hood.

Wiring was a little tedious but nothing crazy - the toughest part was getting the switch through the firewall. I also replaced the s***ty Auxbeam switch with an OEM-style switch from CH4x4, and popped that into a 3d printed Air Ride Replacement Switch from SBE Precision. I think it looks great.

However....now my ditch lights turn on/off when the key isn't even in the ignition. I think it's because I wired them "traditionally" (?) instead of a keyed wire. So when I get some more time I'll be trying this:
- Disconnect white wire from Auxbeam & red wire from CH4x4 switch
- Tape off white Auxbeam wire
- Use a posi-tap to tap the red switch wire into the grey cig lighter wire, which is supposedly only active when the key is on

Without having any type of wiring knowledge I feel like that would work great, but we'll see. Any suggestions?

NEW PROJECT
I have been toying around with using the third row seat bracket to get some storage poxes (like a Pelican case or something) to act exactly like the 3rd row. In doing my research I stumbled across Dieks Wall Boxes, which were quite literally exactly what I wanted. Unfortunately, all sold out.

I'm starting a project to try and replicate them. Found @stupidchicken03 's replication thread, which is helpful. Chicken, I found that the rod you ordered is pretty skinny. I'm going to try and get a thicker rod. Any other tips/tricks/things you wish you did differently?
 
Do you still have the third row and do you plan on keeping it in storage? If the answer is "no", why not utilize the lower frame as the mount for your storage boxes? In my build thread, I initially went with my own version of Diek's Wall Box setup but later in the thread, you can barely make out the frames of the third row seats. They're sturdier and already have all the latching built in. I don't have any pictures but can take some if you want.
 
Do you still have the third row and do you plan on keeping it in storage? If the answer is "no", why not utilize the lower frame as the mount for your storage boxes? In my build thread, I initially went with my own version of Diek's Wall Box setup but later in the thread, you can barely make out the frames of the third row seats. They're sturdier and already have all the latching built in. I don't have any pictures but can take some if you want.
Yeah I thought about that as well. How hard was it to take the frame off the seat and fit it to your boxes? I was also thinking about just finding a 3rd row at a junkyard near me so I don't have to ruin my third row.
 
Yeah I thought about that as well. How hard was it to take the frame off the seat and fit it to your boxes? I was also thinking about just finding a 3rd row at a junkyard near me so I don't have to ruin my third row.
Not hard at all. The biggest pain was the hog rings but some diagonal cutters took care of that.

Are you in the GXOR FB group at all? If you are, this guy made a post about what he did:
 
Hm, that's interesting. I'm not a huge fan of how bulky that is. I'm sure it's a hell of a lot easier, but i like the low-profile look of Diek's solution.
 
There are others that cut off the inboard end and put rubber caps on the open pipe to make it less bulky. Diek's solution is cleaner but the pros of utilizing the seat frame is it all hooks into the factory provisions where Diek's does not. I don't have a use/need for the third row so the factory anchor points is what I wanted after trying out the cleaner looking solution. Function over form if you will.
 
The rods I used fit PERFECT. No wiggle or anything while they're in.
One change that ive been wanting to do is moving the strap that's used to hold them up. I think Diek's did, or at least ive seen others, mount a ring to the bottom of the box. It pulls them up closer to the windows vs having the straps through the handles like I did.

Just something small.. small enough that I havnt done anything about it lol.
 
The rods I used fit PERFECT. No wiggle or anything while they're in.
One change that ive been wanting to do is moving the strap that's used to hold them up. I think Diek's did, or at least ive seen others, mount a ring to the bottom of the box. It pulls them up closer to the windows vs having the straps through the handles like I did.

Just something small.. small enough that I havnt done anything about it lol.
Weird! I think I bought the same one as you, but there was a bit of vertical play, like the rod wasn't thick enough. Just got back from a trip and looking forward to tackling this one this week.
 
DITCH LIGHT WIRING UPDATE
I figured out the best way to wire these Auxbeam ditch lights so that they're only able to turn on when the truck is on. It's funny, a lot of people I see that offer advice just say something along the lines of "you wired it wrong". ok thanks..

Anyway, here's what I did that worked:
  • Auxbeam black -> CH4x4 switch black
  • Auxbeam blue -> CH4x4 switch red (the one listed as "to accessory"
  • Auxbeam white -> tape off, not used
  • CH4x4 switch red (the one next to black) -> tape off, not used. this is for dash light circuit which I didn't do
  • CH4x4 switch green -> inline fuse holder w/ 5v fuse -> positap into pink wire from cig lighter

WALL BOX UPDATES
Finished up my wall box. I only did one side, but I'm really happy with how they turned out. Parts list (for one box):
  • Apache 4800
  • Everbilt Corner Brace 5in (2)
  • 12mm x 250mm threaded rod (Amazon Link)
  • M6 FLN BLT M6x25 (6)
  • M6 Locking nut (6)
  • D ring or strap loop
  • Other small nuts/bolts
I originally had the D ring much lower on the box but didn't like the angle of support it provided so I moved it higher and plugged up the old holes.

I also purchased some Cleat n Feet from Stealth Mounts and will be mounting an Apache 2800 on the bottom of the 4800 for more storage, and so the 4800 lays flat when it's unbuckled.

All in all, super happy with how this turned out.

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