DIY Fridge drop slide

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stevefrommelb

stevefrommelb

10 Year
Joined
Apr 22, 2014
Threads
5
Messages
21
Hey, I really needed a drop fridge slide for my 60 series because I couldn't open the fridge with a regular slide due to my diy drawers and the way the back door opened.

I would have bought one, but I could not justify paying 600-700 for a slide that was probably made for $50.

I think that I could do better if I made one again it wasn't the easiest thing to build the first time around... but it works quite effortlessly. It has no gas struts, but there is soo much leverage even with the fridge full there was no need.

I took it out for the weekend over some rough corrugations and 4x4 tracks and there are no rattles or anything . So far it seems quite solid.

The tools i used to make this were a grinder, drill press, and an arc/stick welder.

Any tips / observations are welcomed. I do have better ideas now that I have made it. Although I think I will keep it as is until I come accross any problems. It took me almost 2 full days to make this as I had no templates / plans...

Also my pivot points are just 8mm button head bolts with nylon nuts. They seem to work fine... but does anyone know better things for pivot points that dont take up room? like rivoted bearings or something? I just wouldnt know what products are out there.

Pictures are attatched.

-Cheers Steve

fridge 1.webp


fridge 2.webp


fridge 3.webp
 
Thanks for the positive comments.

To lock it I welded a tab on the arms on both sides, and welded a nut on the mounting. Then I just push an 8mm lynch pin through both sides.

It's simple and its really strong. If i try and shake the fridge the whole car moves
 
I made most of it from 50x3mm flat bar. Then I made tabs out of 4mm flat bar i think, and I tac welded them on a few places until I got it right and then welded them properly.

The handle is a bit of rio that i treated for rust and painted, and the fridge base is just light guage angle with 2 marine ply strips.

I chose the materials that I did to make it as strong as possible without adding too much weight.

I Don't have any plans as I just had ideas in my head and started welding, moving the tabs until it was right. Although I am thinking about making a template and an easy guide to sell on ebay or something. (Just an idea that I could sell it for a small amount and it would give people a good start to make their own. I know that if i had a template I could have made it in half a day instead of 2 days).
 
yes thats correct, probably about 80% of the weight sits on the tailgate. But then you can slide it back againts the drawers further and 100% will sit on the tailgate- which is how I initially thought I would use it. But it isn't necessary.

I wanted it to sit on the tailgate so that it was as low as possible and to save the drawer runners. When its out or fully in and locked there are no stresses on the 120kg drawer slides.
 
Damn. Bravo, man. That's great! I've been thinking about making my own slide but never thought about making it drop like that. Very cool.
 
yeah, i wouldn't make a tilt slide you can buy them pretty cheap...
but if you are out somewhere and you take the fridge out and you want it to stay there coz your gonna drink a slab of beer that afternoon you don't want to be getting in and out of the fridge when its on a tilt... its just anoying.
 
i've made up a a template for mine now... so i just need to draw up some plans etc. and ill put it up on ebay. I need to find out how much it would cost to post... but I was thinking for around $30 AUD i could probably sell a simple guide / template... then it would make it an easy half day- day project depending on what tools you use to cut / weld.
Also once you have a basic guide it is fairly easy to tweek / alter the design to suit what you are doing (make it drop further down or fit a bigger fridge).

The approx. cost of the build would be about $40 in steel / bearings bolts... + you need to buy the regular slide unless you can make that yourself to slide out of the car. And whatever time you put into it.

If you spent the time on it you could make the finish much nicer than mine... just a question of time.
 
Gday. Im dead set keen on a template mate! Just let me know how to get the cash to you. And when you can get the template to me. This is exactly what Im after. Also an idea on your draw height incase I need to change anything.
 
the drawers are made from a steel frame that i just measured and welded up, the runners are just wheel bearings that are mounted onto the frame. I then put sqaure tubing on the side of the drawers so it slides on the bearings.
Pretty simple design... and really strong. I have had them loaded up for years and they have no signs of fatigue. The wood is marine ply and the carpet is marine carpet.
Also there is no stop on the drawers from coming all the way out. When they are fully extended they sit on the tailgate... Very simple and it works. If I was to make them again I would make them exactly the same.

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stevefrommelb said:
the drawers are made from a steel frame that i just measured and welded up, the runners are just wheel bearings that are mounted onto the frame. I then put sqaure tubing on the side of the drawers so it slides on the bearings.
Pretty simple design... and really strong. I have had them loaded up for years and they have no signs of fatigue. The wood is marine ply and the carpet is marine carpet.
Also there is no stop on the drawers from coming all the way out. When they are fully extended they sit on the tailgate... Very simple and it works. If I was to make them again I would make them exactly the same.
Click to expand...

Nice build, another example of a 80 DIY that doesn't have to be hard or the usual "another grand"
 
I have made a template... but haven't drawn up any plans or anything yet... just been really flat out with work , if i ever get around to finishing it I will let you all know.

it is quite simple once you get all of your measurements and things... although i am still looking for scissor style hinges for mine... i just think it would be better than button head bolts because of the nuts on the otherside.
 
I'm in for a template. Happy to pay the price.

Cheers,

John
 
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