DIY EIMKeith RAM Install (1 Viewer)

Joined
Oct 23, 2019
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199
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Grand Junction, CO
So, I haven't done many DIY tutorials, but I haven't seen a great install for the EIMKeith RAM brackets, so I thought I would contribute:

Things you need:
1. Welder, if you don't have one, then go buy one and teach yourself to weld, this is invaluable. I have a basic HF 120 V MIG.
2. Grinder was helpful. I have three grinders, Corded 4.5", Corded 7", and a cordless 4.5". I used a 7" cutoff wheel and a flap disc.
3. Basic hand tools, 24mm socket for Radius Arm frame bolts and 22mm for the axle mounts. I use a cordless impact to make my life easy.
4: Torque wrench 1/2 or 3/4 for tightening things up at the end.

First thing that was not obvious to me: the brackets are specific to the left and right hand mounts. They do not quite fit correctly if they are swapped. So make sure you're putting the right one on the right side. It should sit flush when on the correct side and in the correct position:
IMG_4929.jpg


Next: these need to be installed co-planar to the existing mounts, and the new mount needs to maintain the same width while welding. This is the hard part as when you weld, things can easily get distorted and your bushing no longer fits in the mount. EIMKeith recommends using an old bushing to maintain the width. I didn't replace the bushings, so I decided to make a spacer. Start by measuring the width of the bushing;
IMG_4932.jpg

Then make a spacer of the same width:
IMG_4934.jpg

I used my 7 inch cutoff wheel, my vice, and a spare chunk of thick scrap metal. I did make it rather wide so that it would help me to maintain co-planar geometry:
IMG_4936.jpg

This will now keep the leaves of the new mount parallel and with the same spacing as the stock mount, and it will keep it from distorting while welding.
 
Joined
Oct 23, 2019
Messages
199
Location
Grand Junction, CO
In preparation for welding, you need to cleanup the mount with your angle grinder and flap disc, making sure all surfaces you are welding are clean.
IMG_4935.jpg

Mock it up with your spacer which keeps it coplanar, and tack weld it in

IMG_4937.jpg

I tack welded it at the four corners to prevent distortion, then bead welded it:
IMG_4947.jpg


Note that this is not my best welding work as I'm laying down welding something under the car. I didn't prep and clean all of the metal as well as I should have, and it took me a minute to get my settings and technique right on welding two metals that are not the same thickness.
 
Joined
Oct 23, 2019
Messages
199
Location
Grand Junction, CO
I then used my winch and jack to get the radius arm back into position. Reinstalling the Radius arms isn't that easy, but I think there are some other tutorials on that.

IMHO, these are better than caster plates as you can easily go back to stock. Caster plate require you to cut the axle mount for the radius arm and weld a plate. The EIMkeith RAM mounts allow access to the stock mount hole if you ever upgrade to something like the Hyper or superflex arms:

upload_2016-9-2_0-52-39-jpeg.1315441
 
Last edited:

alia176

SILVER Star
Joined
Aug 21, 2003
Messages
13,172
Location
Tijeras, NM
Nice job dude, thanks for taking the time to write this up.

Just as a FYI to others, please don't turn the flanged hardware when it comes to your suspension. The flanged nut or bolt has four serrated dimples that bite into the metal and by putting your socket/wrench on this hardware and turning them will cause the serration to become less prominent, which in turn causes them lose their torque over time. FSM clearly shows this but I wanted to remind everyone.
 

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