DIY: CB Radio Install; Lots of Pics! (1 Viewer)

TheForger

SILVER Star
Joined
Jan 4, 2014
Messages
2,621
Location
Little Rock, Arkansas
As I mentioned in my earlier thread CB Radio Install Questions I planned on installing a Midland 75-822 into my 2000 LC. My setup includes a Firestik Firefly 3' antenna mounted to a LabRak Drivers Side antenna mount via FireRing w/18ft coax and the appropriate stud mount. I did drill into the body to route the cable up to the front of the cab. I know know..there are other ways to route it without drilling holes in the body. But it turned out to be an easier than expected job and I am very happy with how it turned out. So the entire installation process took an hour and 25 minutes (timed on my iPhone). I have always been and always will be a very visual learner and I believe in it. So in kindness to others who are that way as well I was not camera shy when it came to documenting this installation. Well without further ado, let it begin!

It started with the Midland CB radio and installing a hanger button on the pack. If you do not know the Midland has a belt-clip on the back because it is also made to be mobile. I ordered a Firestik Replacement Microphone Hanger Button to solve this. First step was opening the radio up. 4 screws on the back and 2 on the bottom. Begin my pulling it apart at the bottom and be gentle around the lanyard hole. Now, realize that if you mount the bolt in between the 2 screw holes where the belt clip was mounted it will not be as stable if mounted to the dash of a vehicle. The mobile slide-on adapter with the antenna and power cord has a lot of weight to it and the bottom of the radio will vibrate against the dash. You will want to make the hole almost dead center in the middle of the Model/Series No. sticker on the back plate of the radio.

IMG_5796.JPG


Assembled the Firestik Hanger Button with locker washer and liberal amounts of Loctite

Before Cutting Bolt.jpg


Trim the excess bolt off and smooth it down flush with the nut using a file

After Cutting Bolt.jpg

Reassemble (making sure to put in place the spring loaded catch that secures the adapter/battery pack to the radio) and voila!

Button Install - Complete:Reassembled.jpg


No interference whatsoever from the nut touching any of the internals and it still works just fine. Here it is attached to the button mount that will be installed in the next phase (unfortunately I forgot to take any pictures during that step:bang: but I do have a pic of where it is mounted on my dash).

With Mic Holder Attached.jpg


To be continued...
 

TheForger

SILVER Star
Joined
Jan 4, 2014
Messages
2,621
Location
Little Rock, Arkansas
Next, I had to mount the antenna to the LabRak drivers side bracket using the FireRing and FireRing stud mount. If you use the basic stud mount from Firestik you will not have enough thread in the coupling nut for the antenna to seat properly; make sure to get the FireRing stud mount! This and the coax cable are available as a package deal from Firestik and you can choose whether you want a 9ft length of coax with the PL-259 connector already soldered on, or an 18ft length of coax with the connector NOT soldered on to make it easier to route. I chose the latter option to make the job a bit easier. Here is a crude diagram of how I planned on routing the coax when I still planned on doing the panel mount connector:

Coax Cable Wiring.jpg


I mounted the FireRing underneath the bracket. I ran the coax through the bottom loop of the LabRak mount and then through a 3/8" hole I drilled near the rear hatch about 3" above the top mounting bolt for the bracket:

FullSizeRender-5.jpg


This allowed me to run the cable through the grommet and then, after removing the rear taillight, I could use a fishing wire to route it between the body of the truck and the interior trim that would normally cover the factory subwoofer:

FullSizeRender-6.jpg


Here is the coax coming out by the rear drivers-side door:

IMG_5907.JPG


I then began lifting up the carpet by removing the door-sill trim and a little bit of the weatherstripping. I wanted to run the coax along the inside of the door-sill where a lot of the factory wires are also routed through. The blue wires seen in the photo are power wires for my amp that powers the subwoofer in the rear. I basically ran the coax parallel to those blue wires at this point:

FullSizeRender-10.jpg
 
Last edited:

TheForger

SILVER Star
Joined
Jan 4, 2014
Messages
2,621
Location
Little Rock, Arkansas
I then fished the coax through the center pillar and up to the drivers seat:

FullSizeRender-8.jpg

FullSizeRender-11.jpg

I routed the coax right across the bottom of the 'platform' that the drivers seat is attached to. That might not make sense, but basically it runs right where my weathertech floor mat touches the carpet in the pic above.

Removed middle console (please don't get onto me about the dirty and rusty console, I did clean it up really well but only after I took the pics LOL!):

FullSizeRender-12.jpg


Fished the coax under the carpet and up into the middle console area by the gear shifter. That knob is an Alpine bass control knob for my subwoofer; unrelated to this install. For some reason I never got a photo of the coax actually running through the console but in reference to the photo above, I ran it under that plastic trim piece that the bass control knob is attached to and between the metal plate that the gear shifter is mounted to and whatever motor is under that silver cross bar (the thing with the yellow sticker on it, sorry for the very technical diction).

FullSizeRender-13.jpg


And then under the same trim piece on the passenger side of the middle console. You can barely see the route I choose for the coax behind the gear shifter plate:

FullSizeRender-14.jpg


To be continued...
 
Last edited:
Joined
Nov 21, 2015
Messages
113
Location
Pasadena, CA
Very clean install. How is the reach with the short power/antenna cord. Does it have a lot of tension to stretch when you grab it to talk?
 

TheForger

SILVER Star
Joined
Jan 4, 2014
Messages
2,621
Location
Little Rock, Arkansas
@billygoats There really isn't much tension in the mic cord at all. It doesn't have a problem reach me when I'm sitting in the drivers seat. I stretched it out and went over it with a heat gun to help the cord unwind just a little and I think that helped a lot.
 

TheForger

SILVER Star
Joined
Jan 4, 2014
Messages
2,621
Location
Little Rock, Arkansas
Soldered the PL-259 connector on the end:

IMG_5924.JPG


Completed:

IMG_5932.JPG


And that's it for now! I am still in the process of finding the correct panel mount to make this work. The one I referenced in my earlier "CB Radio Install Questions" thread does not allow me to remove the collar that surrounds the center conductor, which is what I am looking for. I also have a heavy duty spring on the way that I plan to install soon. Hopefully you gained something from this write up! I enjoyed the install and was surprised at how clean it turned out. Oh and another piece of advice - USE TRIM REMOVAL TOOLS. They saved me from breaking just about every clip and they were a lot easier to work with than a flat head with a cloth over the end lol!

IMG_5932.JPG
 
Joined
Oct 23, 2015
Messages
306
Location
Fort Collins
This is an excellent write up; I appreciate the time you took the take the pics and document this. I plan to install a CB in my truck this summer and am currently collecting ideas. I have bookmarked this thread for reference later. I am thinking about the Cobra 74 WX ST which is very similar to the Midland you chose, however it is not a mobile handheld like the Midland is.

Can you take a few pics of how you installed the mic hanger bracket?

Thanks!
 

TheForger

SILVER Star
Joined
Jan 4, 2014
Messages
2,621
Location
Little Rock, Arkansas
@willbt I mounted the hanger bracket in the spare switch hole cover (55539-60030), that is the similar blank that the CDL button is mounted in just on the passenger side. Yes I know it's not centered in that blank but with the way that the brackets screw holes are located it would be a little harder due to a couple plastic 'ribs' that run along the back of that blank. I simply used the screws that were supplied with the bracket. I removed the blank, marked and drilled 2 very small holes (5/64" maybe?), lined the bracket up with the holes and forced the screws in. Believe me it's not going anywhere and after I finished I replaced the blank and slid the radio in and out of it with pretty good force just to make sure it wasn't going to budge. I'm sure there might be better ways to go about this but it works perfect for me and took longer for me to find the right drill bit than it did to screw it in. The mic also does not rattle in the hanger bracket. (Sorry about the iPhone pics but that is all I got at the moment)

FullSizeRender-16.jpg


FullSizeRender-15.jpg

FullSizeRender-17.jpg
 

TheForger

SILVER Star
Joined
Jan 4, 2014
Messages
2,621
Location
Little Rock, Arkansas
@willbt I went ahead and embedded hyperlinks for the hanging button and the hanger bracket if you are interested in the same parts. FYI they're both from Amazon and the pics for the button show that it is silver but it actually black. I like it even better though since it matches the radio (sure wouldn't want mismatched radio and button now would you;)). Good luck on your project and if you need any help don't hesitate to contact me!:cheers:
 
Joined
Nov 1, 2015
Messages
95
Location
Magnolia, TX
You and I have an identical kit from the Midland CB to the mount and even the antenna. I did my install a bit different however, no holes in the body and mounted my PL-259 connector and an additional 12 volt receptacle in the knockout in the console. The 12 volt also plays double duty when not in use for CB work as a USB adapter for the kids e-devices.
image.jpeg


image.jpeg
 

TheForger

SILVER Star
Joined
Jan 4, 2014
Messages
2,621
Location
Little Rock, Arkansas
Also, how do you connect the coax coming from the radio adapter to that panel mount? The coax coming from my radio adapter has the exact same end on it as your panel mount, so I would need an end with a screw collar in order to connect it to that.
 
Joined
Nov 1, 2015
Messages
95
Location
Magnolia, TX
Also, how do you connect the coax coming from the radio adapter to that panel mount? The coax coming from my radio adapter has the exact same end on it as your panel mount, so I would need an end with a screw collar in order to connect it to that.
So I used a PL-259 Bulkhead mount and since both ends are female (mount and radio) you have to splice on a male PL-259 to the CB and antenna leads.
UHF DOUBLE FEMALE BULKHEAD BARREL CONNECTOR 1.75" LONG FOR PL-259 CONNECTORS

There is also a male end panel mount which I ordered but I got impatient ;)
2pcs Conversion Adapter PL259 UHF male M to SO239 jack F flange panel for radio
 
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
2,235
Location
SLC
Thanks @TheForger and @Jay470 - you've both solved the dilemma w/ my 75-822: 1) hanger button and bracket, and 2) panel mount.

For whatever reason I've been lazy and just connect the coax hanging in the PS foot well to the radio and then place the radio in the cup holder when on the road. But adding these two items will clean it up nicely. And hopefully cut the clatter on washboards.

FWIW, I've got a Pioneer head unit and liked the way Joe002 hooked up a Midland 75-822 using the speaker and aux input and did something similar.

Now I just need to figure out the Ham side of the equation (tech license and HT in hand).

IMG_0835.jpg
 

TheForger

SILVER Star
Joined
Jan 4, 2014
Messages
2,621
Location
Little Rock, Arkansas
@SmoothLC Does that last photo include your setup up with the panel mount connector or is the coax just hanging in the pass. side foot well? I am wondering if it is safe to mount that panel mount to a plastic surface such as the middle console. Would that not cause any grounding issues? Is the center conductor pin the only hot lead and everything else including the collar a ground?? CB newbie here LOL!
 

TheForger

SILVER Star
Joined
Jan 4, 2014
Messages
2,621
Location
Little Rock, Arkansas
Oh and I would definitely suggest using the hanger bracket that I linked up a few posts. I LOVE it so far and it doesn't rattle at all. Even though it came from China, it doesn't appear as though it's the typical Chinese craftsmanship we're all used to. And like I said, I've forcefully removed and replace the CB probably 30 times now just for reassurance and not even the spare blank that the bracket is mounted to budges. Solid and secure!
 
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
2,235
Location
SLC
@TheForger - My install is very similar to what you show in your "Complete" photo above. I've got the coax running from the front PS fender through the firewall into the footwell as you do. The only differences are the button/hanger and antenna location (mine is on the front fender vs. the rear Labrak mount).

AFAIK I'm hoping to brace the panel mount with something (maybe some extra hard plastic) and putting it just below the mic hanger on the center console. At least that's "the plan" at present.

img_5932-jpg.1184299
 
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
2,235
Location
SLC
My apologizes @SmoothLC I just realized that photo was taken from the jeep forum you linked.

Right, no problem. I like the way it is installed in the Jeep and used his install to model my install. Just haven't had time to complete. But with the button/hanger and panel mount (just ordered), it should be completed soon.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom