Differential Rebuild Shop Recommendations Near Tacoma, Wa (1 Viewer)

Mile2885

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I have my rig down to a point where it doesn't seem to make sense to put it back together without having a good shop at least look at the conditions of my front and rear diff, which are currently removed.


Does anyone have shop recommendations for differential work near Tacoma, WA? I do have bearing kits for the rear end and plan on ordering one for the front. Any idea what im looking at for cost? One shop said $350-400 just for labor for one diff. Thanks in advance.
 
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Lakewood, WA
No affiliation but give ABC transmission service a call. 253 777 1979. They are on South Tacoma Way. Hope they can help. I need to regear my 40 series and was planning to call them when I'm ready.
 

Mile2885

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No affiliation but give ABC transmission service a call. 253 777 1979. They are on South Tacoma Way. Hope they can help. I need to regear my 40 series and was planning to call them when I'm ready.
Sounds like the diff guy is out and the price was about triple what I was expecting. Won't use customer supplied parts due to warranty issues.
 
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Sounds like the diff guy is out and the price was about triple what I was expecting. Won't use customer supplied parts due to warranty issues.

Thanks for letting me know, not sure who else does differential work around here. Might be worth the long drive up to Torfab, they know everything about cruisers and I believe they will use your supplied parts.
 

Mile2885

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Thanks for letting me know, not sure who else does differential work around here. Might be worth the long drive up to Torfab, they know everything about cruisers and I believe they will use your supplied parts.
There is a place
Thanks for letting me know, not sure who else does differential work around here. Might be worth the long drive up to Torfab, they know everything about cruisers and I believe they will use your supplied parts.
Rears and gears may be a good one in Parkwood. Just like to get a handle on general cost.
 
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Poulsbo, WA
I don't have personal experience with them, but many of my friends and coworkers have very good experience with Rears and Gears in Port Orchard. Most shops these days have a hard time with customer supplied parts. Good Luck!
 
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Not that hard to do, need a press, harbor freight, use the crush sleeve eliminator kit. Put the ring on the carrier, dry, clean, with loc-tite, and let set according to loc-tite( or whatever you like) directions. Has adjusters for set up, just saying they are doable unlike some others that need larger press, case spreaders, set up bearings, etc...
 

Mile2885

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Not that hard to do, need a press, harbor freight, use the crush sleeve eliminator kit. Put the ring on the carrier, dry, clean, with loc-tite, and let set according to loc-tite( or whatever you like) directions. Has adjusters for set up, just saying they are doable unlike some others that need larger press, case spreaders, set up bearings, etc...
Im sure i can get it apart and back together, more getting the settings correct with ring and pinion that im concerned about.
 
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with the solid spacer & shims it's easy to set pinion depth, the backlash is adjustable with adjusters so you dont have to take bearings on and off to change shims like other diffs.
The bearing races for pnion can be tricky without proper driver to set new ones, other than that pressing bearing on pinion is not all that hard, axle bearing an be tricky but you can man handle them a bit, set neush sleeves w ones with new seals and check the bearing surface on the axle itself. get a new pinion flange/yoke nut, use the old one while dtermining how many shims to put under the inward bearing to achieve proper depth, once you have pattern, lock it down with new nut. You will put the new bearings and races on carrier, set pinion with your first guess on shims, set carrier in where you feel its close, run the adjusters down, give the mains a squeeze and run a pattern, that will tell you if you need to move pinion in or out and the left to right of the carrier is done with adjusters, if your first guess is close, after you correct pinion depth if need be you can fine tune backlash with left to right adjusters which should yield a final pattern that is good to go. After the first pattern check you will have to loosen mains, back off adjusters a bit(just a bit) , remove the cap & and pull carrier, remove pinion, change shims, redo. Some people torque the pinion and mains down every time which is good however if using a crush sleeve instead of solid spacer you will want extras as reuse of crush sleeve is frowned upon. using crush sleeves isnt bad just have spares so final bolt up is on a fresh sleeve. also, dont over torque the pinion nut as it can get to tight causing bearing failure, hence the solid spacer. Some feel the crush sleeve is fine, the solid spacer prevents the pinion bearings from being overloaded when tightening pinion flange/yoke nut.
 

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