Differential Pics and others (1 Viewer)

[dtt255]

Rear pic of rear diff:

Front Pic of rear diff:

Pic from rear of drivers side rear tire and arms:

Pic of transmission

 

[spressomon]

Thanks! Now we're getting somewhere .

Looks like the t-case cross member doesn't hang down as low as the hundy version? And it looks like the t-case sits higher too and is better protected (good thing...more ground clearance).

It also looks like Toyota did away with the goofy cable actuated/complex mechanism e-brake. Are they using hydraulic for e-brake via the yellow hose in the pic?

Thanks for the pics! Keep'em coming .

 

[dtt255]

I believe it is a cable, but to be honest, I would not know from feel.

When I was looking at it with the mechanic from toyota he was pointing at things and when we got to the rear axle he said " Oh and that is for the ebrake" etc...

We were right under that yellow cable.

So there is my technical reason why I think cable

 

[dtt255]

Thanks for the pics! Keep'em coming .

What else do you want pics of?

One thing I did notice is that there is TONS of room (from what it looks like) above the spare tire.


So if I went back to my new gas tank theory. There would be ALOT of room to make a larger tank.

FYI

 

[FirstToy]

well the rear diff is nice and cleaned up compared to the 80 and 100. Swaybar is in front of the axle, like on the 120 series (gx,4r,fjc) which is good. The KDSS is pretty cool- in the front driver's side wheel well you can see the giant piston that's part of the system.

take some more pics underneath and in the engine bay. sweet 5.7 should make some people gawk hehe

oh - some shots of the front suspension- CV joints, arms, coilovers - that would be interesting

 

[dtt255]

oh - some shots of the front suspension- CV joints, arms, coilovers - that would be interesting

Children Children....we are here for education purposes....not for showing off.... ;p

I will TRY and take some pics of the engine tonight, most likely tomorrow.

Although there is some good clearance underneath, it is hard to get the pics to come out clear that close up.

I won't go under the car with just the stock jack. I will wait till I get the Hi-Lift Jack. I had a VERY bad experiance with a stock jack and going under a car.

Anyway, I will post more either tonight or tomorrow.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Thanks for the pics. Diff looks like standard LC stuff-drop out 3rd, standard diameter. I was hoping it would get the 10.5 inch diameter from the Tundra, but r&P sets will be easier to source if standard LC. The Front diff will be a problem to regear-is it shared with another vehicle?

The rear shock lower mount does not look as well protected as on an 80, not sure about the 100.

I agree the t-case looks tucked into the cross member better.


How about a size comparison with the 100 series half shafts up front.

I also would like to see some shots of the A arms.

Also, I presume the rear axle is a semi-float, but is that in fact the case?

Overall impression with no sheet metal visible----Land Cruiser.



Edit--Drive it up on ramps. I'm disappointed to hear you can't just roll under it. Forget any kind of jacks to keep you safe. BTW-The factory jack is far safer than a hi-lift. While the hi-Lift is a great tool at the right time, it is scary and dangerous all of the time.

 

[FirstToy]

get a hydraulic floor jack for home use. don't use the hi-lift unless you really need to; it's nickname is "the widowmaker"...

 

[dtt255]

Ok ok ok...I could not wait either....I am currently uploading about 20 more pics I just went outside and took... if you print them out you could probably piece the whole thing together from underneath

I will try to caption what is what....but you all probably will know better then me

Give me a bit to get them uploaded.

 

[dtt255]

get a hydraulic floor jack for home use. don't use the hi-lift unless you really need to; it's nickname is "the widowmaker"...

Already on my list

The widowmaker? ouch..that is not good.

 

[dtt255]

Edit--Drive it up on ramps. I'm disappointed to hear you can't just roll under it. Forget any kind of jacks to keep you safe. BTW-The factory jack is far safer than a hi-lift. While the hi-Lift is a great tool at the right time, it is scary and dangerous all of the time.

Ok let me clarify. I am not saying that I cannot go underneath (as in my belly is too big ) It is just the pictures would be way to close and you would not see anything...that's all

No personal attacks on the belly are needed

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Ok let me clarify. I am not saying that I cannot go underneath (as in my belly is too big ) It is just the pictures would be way to close and you would not see anything...that's all

No personal attacks on the belly are needed

Ha--I had not thought about the belly issue until just now. I was staying on track and thinking ground clearance!

Get some Rhino ramps--They are composite plastic, but are light and durable and will make lots of chores and mods much easier. Despite being plastic, they support 12,000 pounds. I've had a set for years and still use them all the time.

Looking forward to the pics.

 

[dtt255]

The area in front of the air filter, between the air filter and the passenger headlight. Looks like a perfect place for a second battery BUT you will see a small black box with a yellow sticker on it. Says do not touch. See next photo.

Close up:

Air Filter:

Engine with Cover:

Engine with cover lifted:

Passenger Side of Engine:

Drivers side of engine:

Great Grommet for anyone wishing to get through from the engine compartment to the inside: (dead center on picture. You can see where I put my sirius radio antenna through)

Other side of rear diff:

Close up:

Right Rear Tire:

Right Rear Tire Spring:

Cat converter:

Close up: (I think that is the fuel tank to the left...big skid plate!)

Passenger Front tire picture from rear:
(You can notice the slits for the air intake in the front of the wheel well. Plus a good pic of the suspension for the front)

Right rear tire arms again:

Front Drivers wheel:

Cannot remember which tire this is:

Right Rear Stabilizer Arm:

My personal Favorite: (above the spare tire where there is LOTS of wasted space that can be used for extra fuel! No I will not leave it alone. I hate wasted space!)

 

[dtt255]

BTW I cannot get pics of the engine from underneath unless I remove all the skid plates.....so no go on that.....so far

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Front half axles look the same as 100 series, not larger. The steering looks substantially beefier. It's kind of spindly on the 100s I've seen.

Is the intake manifold plastic?? I'm surprised by that. What is it in the 100s?

Man- a LC with a high tech, high output 350. Niiiiiice.

The metal thing with the caution sticker is your ignitor I think. Odd place for it. No distributor on this motor, I assume.

Good pics. Rear suspension is essentially unchanged since 1991!

 

[FirstToy]

the 100 intake is plastic too.
The IFS looks good- that lower a-arm is huge! you can see that massive curved beam-that's the swaybar! I guess it's so massive to account for the KDSS. TRE's look beefy.

The t-case looks like it just has a protective skid bolted to it (same as the 120 series again) so there is where you want a custom plate attached to the frame rails. it is potentially vulnerable.

 

[dtt255]

Front half axles look the same as 100 series, not larger. The steering looks substantially beefier. It's kind of spindly on the 100s I've seen.

Is the intake manifold plastic?? I'm surprised by that. What is it in the 100s?

Man- a LC with a high tech, high output 350. Niiiiiice.

The metal thing with the caution sticker is your ignitor I think. Odd place for it. No distributor on this motor, I assume.

Good pics. Rear suspension is essentially unchanged since 1991!

What is the ignitor for? I have never heard of that before.

So are we thinking better of the 200? LOL...JUST KIDDING! I don't want this thread to turn into another one of THOSE threads.

Just trying to rebuild the respect of the 200 series..one pic at a time

 

[FirstToy]

it kinda looks like a ballast for HID lights...but the LC doesn't have them does it?
Other guesses-
=some type of trac device
=some type of KDSS device (detect pitch/yaw)
=some type of crash sensor
=flux capacitor

... or maybe it has to do with ignition as andy said?...

 

[dtt255]

it kinda looks like a ballast for HID lights...but the LC doesn't have them does it?
Other guesses-
=some type of trac device
=some type of KDSS device (detect pitch/yaw)
=some type of crash sensor
=flux capacitor

... or maybe it has to do with ignition as andy said?...

no HID lights here.

Well what I am thinking is if someone can build a battery tray that sits above that thingy, and does not touch it. Then again, maybe it cannot even have something on top of it...until we figure out what it is at least.

flux capacitor? Come on....I would not have that piece of junk in my car...warp nacelles only for me...

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Funny-Our 2004 Sienna has a plastic intake manifold too. At first I was kind of bummed by that, but I've heard of no one with any problems with it. Still, you'd think on a car like a Land Cruiser designed to run for 20+ years, it would be aluminum.

I think the front end looks good for an IFS truck. Maybe the beefy A arms and the bigger diff will address the weak points of the 100 series. I wonder if they'll swap?

That thing that looks like an ignitor, really can't be one. I think each cylinder has it's own coil and ignitor, but I'm not certain. The more parts shared with the Tundra, the better--more spares and swaps in the future.

I never dogged the 200. Review my posts. I think it's cool, and I would happily drive one, even if some on this forum think it looks like a Highla.........