Different inverter placement (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I would recommend a grommet or some kind of sheathing where the cable goes through the body. I put my 850/1700w inverter under my front seat, however I ran the cable through the firewall and down the "wire chase" along the rocker area, where the other body wires are. I also fused it at the battery with a 100A mega fuse.
 
That 2300w inverter is capable of drawing just under 400 amps. Even that 850w inverter can draw just less than 150 amps.

-Spike
 
I would recommend a grommet or some kind of sheathing where the cable goes through the body. I put my 850/1700w inverter under my front seat, however I ran the cable through the firewall and down the "wire chase" along the rocker area, where the other body wires are. I also fused it at the battery with a 100A mega fuse.

I ran 2/0 welding cable for the postive through the firewall(the shortest most direct route from the positive 2150 terminal on the seperator). The ground from the engine block is also 2/0 and enters through the existing hole where the heater lines entered. I used silicone underneath and duct tape as backing to seal the area where the ground enters and from my experience that will hold up quite well and provide an even better seal than a rubber grommet alone which would have had to of been oversized and rectangluar. A rubber grommet would look better though it will not be seen anyway.

I considered a high amp dc circuit breaker, but a 300amp version was almost $200 :eek: (that's almost as much as the inverter itself). I think it would take a very severe crunch to even pose a threat (I just don't see it happening short of a semi-tractor falling on top of me from a bridge). I think it will be fine and after consulting with others opted to "risk" it.
 
Last edited:
That 2300w inverter is capable of drawing just under 400 amps. Even that 850w inverter can draw just less than 150 amps.

-Spike


I discussed this with the guy at the alternator shop who built my cables. He could order high amperage dc circuit breakers, but they were very expensive. The high amperage inline fuses were pricey as well and would have also required more cable work. He agreed that the risk of shorting was very low.
 
That 2300w inverter is capable of drawing just under 400 amps. Even that 850w inverter can draw just less than 150 amps.

-Spike




The inverter is fused at 100A onboard, from the factory, so I am just being redundant on the battery end.
 
I ran 2/0 welding cable for the postive through the firewall(the shortest most direct route from the positive 2150 terminal on the seperator). The ground from the engine block is also 2/0 and enters through the existing hole where the heater lines entered. I used silicone underneath and duct tape as backing to seal the area where the ground enters and from my experience that will hold up quite well and provide an even better seal than a rubber grommet alone which would have had to of been oversized and rectangluar. A rubber grommet would look better though it will not be seen anyway.

I considered a high amp dc circuit breaker, but a 300amp version was almost $200 :eek: (that's almost as much as the inverter itself). I think it would take a very severe crunch to even pose a threat (I just don't see it happening short of a semi-tractor falling on top of me from a bridge). I think it will be fine and after consulting with others opted to "risk" it.

I'm sure it will be fine where it is coming through the floorboard, I was more concerned about chafing the cable, then "sealing" it, but it is a ground anyway, so a short won't really do much anyway;). A megafuse holder is cheap (~$10, IIRC), and the fuses are less than that.
 
I'm sure it will be fine where it is coming through the floorboard, I was more concerned about chafing the cable, then "sealing" it, but it is a ground anyway, so a short won't really do much anyway;). A megafuse holder is cheap (~$10, IIRC), and the fuses are less than that.

Do they come in 300 to 400 amp sizes? I would also be concerned with attaching the fuse holder to 2/0 cable. The guy I was working with said the only inline fuses he had that were that big were non replaceable fuse links and had to be soldered or crimped into the cable.
 
Last edited:
Do they come in 300 to 400 amp sizes? I would also be concerned with attaching the fuse holder to 2/0 cable. The guy I was working with said the only inline fuses he had that were that big were non replaceable fuse links and had to be soldered or crimped into the cable.

I believe this is the mega fuse I have. I got mine at NAPA, they had them in the parts storage, not on the retail floor.

The megafuse holder, looks like this:
FH-Mega-2.jpg


When looking for pics to attach, I found that bluesea seems to have some nice megafuse holders, along with the high amp fuses.
 
I believe this is the mega fuse I have. I got mine at NAPA, they had them in the parts storage, not on the retail floor.

The megafuse holder, looks like this:
FH-Mega-2.jpg


When looking for pics to attach, I found that bluesea seems to have some nice megafuse holders, along with the high amp fuses.

I like the looks of those. I think they could work out.

I wonder what size I should use between my two 6 volts in series?
 
The key is having a monster battery in a dual set-up and for me a separator so I could forget about the charging operation.

Where did you buy the separator setup? I'm working on a similar setup, and would like to keep the AC inverter bus/deep cycle battery separate from the cranking battery. How exactly did you set this up?

Great install!!:bounce:
 
Where did you buy the separator setup? I'm working on a similar setup, and would like to keep the AC inverter bus/deep cycle battery separate from the cranking battery. How exactly did you set this up?

Great install!!:bounce:

Thanks. The seperator is a Surepower 1314 designed for up to a 100 amp charging system. They make another seperator that goes up to a 300amp charging system.

I talked to a tech at Surepower before I purchased and he said that the 1314 would easily do the job and that the stock alternator would be plenty of amperage to keep both batteries healthy.

You can purchase the seperator at NAPA. I think I paid $90. The heavier duty model was twice as expensive.
 
Thanks.

I may have to replace the inverter if it becomes submerged. If it were to become submerged it may not be an issue if it is allowed to dry thoroughly before turned on. Hopefully I don't stall in water that deep. I don't have a snorkel either.


I hooked mine through Warn 175 Amp quick connect power connectors and remove the inverter when crossing rivers just in case :grinpimp:
 
I hooked mine through Warn 175 Amp quick connect power connectors and remove the inverter when crossing rivers just in case :grinpimp:

Yeah, but you live in South America. You might have to drive through a river just to buy groceries. :grinpimp:

I hate pavement.
 
With no circuit protection, you might consider a battery disconnect switch mounted somewhere easily accessible in case of a short. I was able to stop a dump truck burning to the ground a few years back because it had disconnects mounted on the outside of the battery box, and shutting off the power stopped the fire. I know the risk of short is low, but you won't believe how much fire a big battery can make until you watch one happen. NAPA has them in the truck section.
 
Yeah, but you live in South America. You might have to drive through a river just to buy groceries. :grinpimp:

I hate pavement.

I wish:crybaby:

I live in a 7 million habitant city, and sometimes I could return to my home from my office walking in 1/4 the time it takes to drive this 5 miles :mad:

But on my trips to the rain forest ( two days driving because it´s close to our border with Brasil or Colombia) I enjoy crossing waist level rivers or mud :D

We don´t do often such things as driving on something as the Rubicon and my kids can´t do the angel on snow, but we manage.:beer:


By the way a tip: when a electronic device such as the inverter get flooded in water and was powered up( or just hooked to the battery), chances are very high it will get severely damaged even if you disconnect it fast (unless it´s manufactured and comply with military specs:doh:)

Okay, many people told you about cellulars droped on swiming pools or WC, battery was removed right away and cell was dried with hair dryers and could be saved but unfortunately this doesn´t have always a happy end ( please don´t remind me this comment sounds like a question on a oriental massage parlor:eek:)
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom