Diff breather extension - question?

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Meh, i just routed both axle breathers to the master cylinder area, open ends. There isn't enough air flow through either hose to bother me, I don't care how much dust is present. The ends of the hose are pointed down, so they'd have to be actively vacuuming for anything to get in.

-Spike
 
I also used a gas filter to close off my extended breathers, but as I used a clear plastic tube, I was able to see that the fluid from the front axle actually splashes up into the tube about an inch or two. Considering the length of the tube snaking up and into the engine bay and fixed to the MC, even the gas filter is probably overkill but as IdahoDoug said, cheap insurance. Tapeing the ends would probably be good enough too.

Where I screwed up was in not giving my tubes enough slack for the axle movement. I didn't realize my driving made the axle move that much and have since given the tube 12" of slack.


Kalawang
 
Erratic said:
Are you referring to the "teller county car wash''? On the Hackett gulch trail. I loved wheeling and dirtbiking out there when I lived there. Now I'm stuck in NH with a lot of stupid mud! So extending the breathers is necessary for me. Do they really need a filter on the end? I was thinking about just running them to the air box and putting a bulkhead hose barb on it. Tie em all together and terminate it there. But do they really need anything on them?

alkaline747trio said:
As long as they are getting clean air and not throwing axle pollution into the intake you shouldn't have a problem.

you don't want to put a vacuum on any of them......
 
Rusty Phillips said:
you don't want to put a vacuum on any of them......

You're correct, but I was under the assumption that vacuum wasn't present on the airbox where I am assuming he would mount them, but after further thinking that is probably where the vacuum is created.

That being said, a crank filter or lawn mower fuel filter would be the best choice givin the vacuum created by the diffs that is what appears to be the main cause of inner axle seal failure.
 
I meant to put it on the air box. There should be no vacuum there. Engine vacuum is generated between the throttle body and the cylinders. Hopefully the engine would suck air from the large tube to the fender before the tiny tube to the diffs. If you did put it on a vacuum source it would be like a straw of gear oil to the motor, and cause a lot more problems than it would solve. Creating a vacuum in the diff sucking grease into it.
 
There is a vacuum in the air box. The engine is sucking air through the airbox. Not as strong as between the manifold and throttle, but there nonetheless.

-Spike
 
Erratic said:
I meant to put it on the air box. There should be no vacuum there. Engine vacuum is generated between the throttle body and the cylinders. Hopefully the engine would suck air from the large tube to the fender before the tiny tube to the diffs. If you did put it on a vacuum source it would be like a straw of gear oil to the motor, and cause a lot more problems than it would solve. Creating a vacuum in the diff sucking grease into it.


Heard that running it into the air box may effect the air mass meter...just an FYI.
 
e-adjustable breather extension. Period.:D
breather mod.webp
 
Why does the diff need to breathe? Does it need "fresh air".

Couldn't you just put a balloon at the end of the breather tube to let the diff air expand and contract?
 
pulse98 said:
Why does the diff need to breathe? Does it need "fresh air".

Couldn't you just put a balloon at the end of the breather tube to let the diff air expand and contract?

What happens when the air wants to contract but the balloon is deflated?

If you have a pressurized balloon on the bleeder, it would force oil through the seals.

Easiest method to allow the air to expand and contract is to have a breather hole. If the breather hole goes underwater, water gets in to the axle housing. Raising the breather hole with a hose is the easiest way to protect against water damage.

-Spike
 
15' of 1/4" fuel line, 2 $3 motorcycle fuel filters and 4 $.50 hose clamps + 30 minutes. Run a seperate line from each diff into the engine compartment and you eliminate the whole issue.

Transmission and X-fer case are next with their own line.

This is one of the easiest mods (besides bottle opener) that I have accomplished.
 
I saw a product that is supposed to work pretty well and keep all the crud out of the diffs. It is a little plastic accordian looking thing that sits at the top of the diff breather hose that expands as the diff oil heats up and then goes back down when neccesary so the whole system is sealed but still allows for the needed air movement.

I'll look for a link to the unit and post it when I have time.
 
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