Did you ever wonder what the inside of your resonator looks like ? (1 Viewer)

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I decided yesterday since our LC isn’t a soccer mom vehicle anymore , i’m cutting off that stupid resonator and letting the engine breathe and getting back some horse power and gas mileage. I weighted it, the thing is almost 20 pounds. I haven’t ordered up the delete pipe yet. I’ll do it next week but for "grins and giggles" I started it up, I wanted to hear how it sounded with no resonator and muffler. I was honestly disappointed . I expected birds to fly out of the trees, all the dogs in the neighborhood to start barking, But our Ford excursion after I straight piped it was twice as loud as the 100 is....... it’s interesting how Toyota made this resonator .It’s wrapped in some kind of material, I don’t know if it’s a insulating material for sound or heat ,then there’s another metal housing or shell around it. The outer shell is where all the rust on the ground came from.

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I tried to convince my mom to straight pipe her 100 after the muffler developed a nice rusty hole. She almost did it.

But on topic, the mufflers in the 2nd generation Lexus GS (and probably others) also work on that Helmholtz cancellation chamber design.

And I have yet to hear a Toyota V8 that doesn’t sound good unmuffled. Taking the resonators out of a Lexus ISF or GS430 sounds absolutely amazing. Not too loud, not farty, just classy throaty roar.
 
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Thanks for the pics of the dissection. Always wondered what made my $500 oem replacement so heavy and pricey.

If you ever feel like uploading a video so we can all hear the sound of an unmuffled 100 that would be welcome. I seem to remember mine turning heads in the parking garage when I had a rusted out area in the original, which lasted 12 years.
 
Very interesting! I love the one way self closing water intrusion valve! I had no idea that was in there and it's something I'm sure none of the aftermarket designs include. That alone makes the crazy oem price almost worth it. Because of that I will definetly consider going oem at next replacement.
Thanks for taking the time to perform the disection and share it!
 
Very interesting! I love the one way self closing water intrusion valve! I had no idea that was in there and it's something I'm sure none of the aftermarket designs include. That alone makes the crazy oem price almost worth it. Because of that I will definetly consider going oem at next replacement.
Thanks for taking the time to perform the disection and share it!
Where does this valve let water out? Exhaust is full of water
 
I think it is to reduce or prevent water from flowing IN thru the tailpipe to the engine in case of an engine stall during a water crossing.
 
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I think it is to reduce or prevent water from flowing IN thru the tailpipe to the engine in case of an engine stall during a water crossing.
Hmm. Really?
 
Nothing to do with water. When you floor it, that flap can open to overcome restriction. A sort of 2-stage muffler.
 
Not for water intrusion. Ads back-pressure at low RPM for improved torque curve. Then opens to let the engine exhaust better at higher RPM.
I assume it doesn't improve performance at low RPM and is solely for maximum noise baffling?
 
Not for water intrusion. Ads back-pressure at low RPM for improved torque curve. Then opens to let the engine exhaust better at higher RPM.

How does more back pressure increase torque?

I thought I read somewhere that the LC exhaust was stainless steel. That muffler definitely does not look like any kind of stainless. Even ferritic (no nickel) stainless won't rust like that.

I've thought about doing a mod to have that flap valve be open all the time. Anybody else thought about that?

Anybody ever consider dual exhaust all the way back? Or just coming together right before the rear axle?
 
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How does more back pressure increase torque?

I thought I read somewhere that the LC exhaust was stainless steel. That muffler definitely does not look like any kind of stainless. Even ferritic (no nickel) stainless won't rust like that.

I've thought about doing a mod to have that flap valve be open all the time. Anybody else thought about that?

Anybody ever consider dual exhaust all the way back? Or just coming together right before the rear axle?
There's that whole gas tank thing
 
There's that whole gas tank thing
Dual exhaust does not have to mean TWO big mufflers. A pair of side-by-side resonators would take up less space than the stock muffler.
 
I’m thinking of deleting the muffler and resonator and running straight pipe out the back so I can fit a 3 gallon air tank where the current muffler is. Would the power and/or torque loss be that noticeable. Would it be harmful to the engine somehow over the long term? Any other considerations I should be mindful of? Would leaving the resonator and deleting the muffler be a better idea? What about one of those glasspack mufflers in place of the resonator? I don’t necessarily want a louder setup, I just want to fit the air tank down there and I don’t see a whole lot of other options except where the muffler is. Any input appreciated.
 
I’m thinking of deleting the muffler and resonator and running straight pipe out the back so I can fit a 3 gallon air tank where the current muffler is. Would the power and/or torque loss be that noticeable. Would it be harmful to the engine somehow over the long term? Any other considerations I should be mindful of? Would leaving the resonator and deleting the muffler be a better idea? What about one of those glasspack mufflers in place of the resonator? I don’t necessarily want a louder setup, I just want to fit the air tank down there and I don’t see a whole lot of other options except where the muffler is. Any input appreciated.

Removing the resonator...doesn't seem to do much of anything at all. I haven't noticed any additional noise, unless it's at frequencies I can't hear. I removed mine yesterday (well, a muffler shop did) after smashing it and the tailpipe to shreds on a couple of hard trails.

I'd think that removing both would be LOUD.
 

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