Desmog components (1 Viewer)

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FJ40Jim said:
Dustin, all the 1985 components are currently in stock.

The 5 components that are typically used in a proper desmog, can be seen HERE.
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@FJ40Jim thanks! I did not see that section for some reason, but just placed my order! Thanks man.
 
@FJ40Jim
I just finished my desmog and will add the final pictures to my desmog thread later today. Thank you for the high quality parts you supplied and the same day response to fixing the issue I had with the United States post office (they never found the parts btw).

I wanted to ask if you’ve thought about, or simply decided not to add two more parts that would be helpful to have in the fj60 desmog “kit”.

The Egr exhaust gasket and block off are provided, but not the gasket on the intake side. Mine wasn’t in bad shape but I ended up ordering from Toyota. It’s the gasket that goes behind the ERG/PCV piping that attaching at the intake. I suppose many people don’t remove theirs so it doesn’t matter. I took mine off to cut off the long tube that goes inside the intake that I think potentially blocks the gas spray.

The second part that would be helpful is a chunk of high heat silicon tubing and plug that can fit over he exhaust side check valve. I know some people just cut that off and weld it up but for those people keeping the ability to smog later or who don’t have welding experience I think this would be a great addition to your kit.

I totally understand if you want to say :flipoff2:
since I’m sure you’ve thought all of this over!
 
Thanks for the input!

It's kinda funny you took off the sideplate, since the EGR threaded plug was expressly designed to be a simple thread solution in so the EGR sideplate would not need removed from the manifold.
OTOh, if taking the plate off and fiddling with the rock hard PCV hose, the fragile manifold temp sensor, and breaking off one or two of the galvanically corroded little bolts is OK, then the replacement EGR-delete sideplate & gasket from MAF is available.

The truck is already equipped with high heat hose in that location. Just leave the stock hose in place and stick a plug in the end of it. Believe it or not, the truck is also equipped with a plug for that hose: a closed end FJ60 lugnut! That's what I use because there's a bucket of rusty ones here. A pipe cap (used as a plug in this instance) from the hardware store can also work.

Oh, and thanks for your detailed desmog writeup with good pictures:clap:!
 
Speaking of being back, we were in warmer environs for a couple weeks at New Years, but we are back in the shop. Desmog parts are in stock and ready to ship.
 
FJ40Jim said:
Edit: Please try ordering parts on the new TLC Performance webstore. If it doesn't work, please let me know. Thanks!

This thread lists the useful desmog parts that are made or sourced for engine builds & PS swaps in the TLC Performance global headquarters.

Note that actually removing federally mandated smog equipment from a street legal vehicle is against the law. These components will allow the use of later model engine and steering parts in earlier Land Cruisers.

All parts are currently in stock, unless indicated otherwise in the description.

First is the v.3.3 AIR pump idler pulley for 81-87 2F with factory PS pump. The bracket is made of laser cut 1/4" plate and DOM tubing. The bracket is welded together but is designed so the welds are all redundant, bolts are also holding it together when assembled. The pulley wheel is made in USA and fits wide (Cruiser) belts. Assembly drops into stock lower pivot bracket, uses stock upper tension bracket and keeps stock belt size for easy replacements. Pulley wheel is a standard industrial part that can be easily replaced from a motion supply house or lawnmower store.

The tension drawbolt will still work with the lockbolt, but I don't recommend actually using the drawbolt to tension the pulley. The drawbolt is there to assist in moving the awkward air pump and fighting the stiff air hoses. Reasonable belt tension (it doesn't need much) can be achieved by simply yanking out on the pulley by hand, then tightening the lockbolt & pivot. Once a moderately snug belt is set, then the draw bolt can be slipped onto the lockbolt and tightened up, to insure the idler doesn't move in.

This piece is necessary on a Cruiser using a stock 81-87 PS pump. The PS pump picks the alternator belt up off the fan, leaving only the air pump to tension the fan belt. If the vehicle doesn't have an air pump, then this idler can be used to restore the needed fan belt tension function.

Price is $110, plus $8 PriorityMail shipping.

PayPal can be sent to fj40jim a t gmail do t com.

If purchasing more than one component (see post below for others), shipping is still $8 for the total order. All 3 will just fit in a small flat rate box.
View attachment 687480View attachment 687481
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I have a 1978 FJ40 that I like to Desmog, does anyone have step by step instructions, mainly what to do with all the vacuum hoses. thank
 
The desmog parts are easy enough to install. I am using the Fuji carb sourced from CityRacer and there’s only one vacuum port on the carb. There’s a few threads (search desmog for dummies) on Mud that outline the stock carb. Read them in their entirety before removing anything. I read 23 of the 24 pages I could find, only to realize I did everything correct for the wrong set up. Had to pull everything out and start over. My thread for Buster Brown has a few diagrams (Credit given to the guys who really know what they are doing). Read up, jump in, and post up your questions/experience.
 
For the 1978, the carb could be rebuilt, rejetted and desmogged.
The Fuji carb mentioned above for poverty spec 81-84 2F doesn't fit a USA '78, since it lacks the canister vent fitting, fuel return fitting, is too short, doesn't connect to the air cleaner, doesn't have a choke breaker, doesn't have port for HIC...
It is not necessary to recurve the dissy, although servicing it would be a good idea due to age.
The desmog parts needed are a cap & plug kit, and the EGR blockoff & EGR gasket.
The desmog diagrams are both in this thread.

HTH!
 
Understood, so back to desmogging, I just don’t want to run into any boogiemen, just seems to easy port screws, plugs and erg plate. I’ll order parts tomorrow. Thanks again
 
No sealant or chemical are needed on the AIR plugs. The temps can be well above 1000°F on a highway grade. Any sealer or loctite will be incinerated.

For BVSV plugs in t-stat housing, pipe sealant is a requirement.
 
Heeler85 said:
Jim, would like to desmog a 73, let me know if you still have the parts needed to do so,
Thanks
Dusty
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There is not much in the way of bad smog equipment on a 1973 F engine. The cap & plug kit has the air rail plugs & vinyl air cleaner cap, if needed to delete an AIR pump.
 
Jim

Could not find on your where I can order all of the parts for my FJ60 desmog. I need to order including all gaskets. Also, how do i send carb and dist to you for desmogginand what is the cost?
 
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