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Geoffrey Carter

Joined
Dec 5, 2018
Threads
12
Messages
38
Location
Panama City, FL
I swear my engine was designed by Land Rover, I just got the yota out of the shop after fixing the lifter and bucket that had broke and not even a week later after buying brand new tires I'm on a road trip to Jacksonville from Panama City and the same thing happened this time causing my timing belt to snap. But on the plus side I have 31 1050 R15 listen to lift that fit great with no scrubbing. Too bad I won't be able to use them on my trip.

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If it's a Toyota timing belt diesel engine, that same shim over bucket design is used across all of the 1KZ, 1PZ, 1HZ, 1HD, 2L, 3L, 5L engines (and more). From everything I read, it's pretty rare for people to have problems with those. I'm going to say this is a mechanic problem and not a design problem.
 
1992 2.4 2LTE 88,000 miles automatic, past life I guessing was a taxi or rental car. This is my second shin issue but the this one cause the belt to snap or come loose. I'll open it up Friday I have training until Thursday night.
 
Geoffrey Carter said:
1992 2.4 2LTE 88,000 miles automatic, past life I guessing was a taxi or rental car. This is my second shin issue but the this one cause the belt to snap or come loose. I'll open it up Friday I have training until Thursday night.
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I'm guessing someone replaced the cylinder head at some point (Japan) and did not put it back together right. I've honestly never heard of this issue. Will be interesting to see what happened.
 
Tennessee Jed said:
The 2LTE - the greatest thread-starter of them all.
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Except in this case the failed mechanism part #'s share exactly to the 1PZ, 1HZ, 1HD, 1KZ, etc. Valve train is the same between these motors (springs/buckets/shims). Even all the valve stem measurements are the same in the shop manuals.
 
SNLC said:
Put the 3L head on it if you are replacing the head.


Cheers
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Actually either the second generation 3L or 2LTE cylinder heads are fine. The first generation of each BOTH had cracking issues. Second generation of each was greatly improved. Just make sure you buy OEM Toyota; it's worth the extra money over the offshore heads.
 
Geoffrey Carter said:
This is a cheap fix, I do not have the money to do a proper 3L swap. Currently moving and now self employed.
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@SNLC was not talking about a whole engine swap. He's just say the 3L cylinder head fits on the 2LTE. It's a common thing to do and costs roughly the same.

If you do the work yourself it's going to cost you roughly ~$2000-2500 to do it right with Toyota OEM parts. If you pay someone add another ~$2000 to that.

You'll need to buy a new cylinder head, new head bolts and a 'valve grind' gasket set. You'll have to drop the old head and new head off at a machine shop to have the valve train swapped over. They'll also set valve clearances for you. Spend lots of time making sure the block deck is perfectly clean. Also, clean all the head bolt holes perfectly and chase them with a tap if you have one. If you don't do this you'll have headgasket issues later.

And it's heat that kills these cylinder heads. So make sure you service your cooling system so it's working top notch. Also, install a pyrometer and tune the engine to run leaner (more boost without an increase in fuel).

This is why the LJ78's are cheaper than the HZJ77s. Great trucks, but the engine's need investment to be reliable. Did you do your research ahead of time before buying? This is pretty common knowledge....
 
GTSSportCoupe said:
@SNLC was not talking about a whole engine swap. He's just say the 3L cylinder head fits on the 2LTE. It's a common thing to do and costs roughly the same.

If you do the work yourself it's going to cost you roughly ~$2000-2500 to do it right with Toyota OEM parts. If you pay someone add another ~$2000 to that.

You'll need to buy a new cylinder head, new head bolts and a 'valve grind' gasket set. You'll have to drop the old head and new head off at a machine shop to have the valve train swapped over. They'll also set valve clearances for you. Spend lots of time making sure the block deck is perfectly clean. Also, clean all the head bolt holes perfectly and chase them with a tap if you have one. If you don't do this you'll have headgasket issues later.

And it's heat that kills these cylinder heads. So make sure you service your cooling system so it's working top notch. Also, install a pyrometer and tune the engine to run leaner (more boost without an increase in fuel).

This is why the LJ78's are cheaper than the HZJ77s. Great trucks, but the engine's need investment to be reliable. Did you do your research ahead of time before buying? This is pretty common knowledge....
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I know about the head swap, but I do not have the extra money for just the 3L head. I found a cast head from Australia fully assembled for under $400 new. I just need to get my truck on the road to get it home. I'm only cheap for right now. My security company is just getting started my start up costs are killing me, working out of pocket.
 
Geoffrey Carter said:
I know about the head swap, but I do not have the extra money for just the 3L head. I found a cast head from Australia fully assembled for under $400 new. I just need to get my truck on the road to get it home. I'm only cheap for right now. My security company is just getting started my start up costs are killing me, working out of pocket.
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Dude, you bought the wrong truck. ;) Buying it is the cheap part, LOL. I think I've put about 5 times more in new parts/upgrades into mine then the truck itself cost! (that said I got mine pretty cheap)

There are a couple good aftermarket heads around, so hopefully that is what you've found and it'll last for a while.
 
GTSSportCoupe said:
Dude, you bought the wrong truck. ;) Buying it is the cheap part, LOL. I think I've put about 5 times more in new parts/upgrades into mine then the truck itself cost! (that said I got mine pretty cheap)

There are a couple good aftermarket heads around, so hopefully that is what you've found and it'll last for a while.
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A lot of the V8 guys seem to like them with their LS and other small blocks, there aren't too many negative reviews aside from parts needing to be sanded down a little bit further. I'm just hoping since this is a fully assembled piece but some of those precautions have been done already, my plan honestly is a OEM head whenever I can get the extra money.
 
the casting on my OEM head had a small crack which was causing the bucket to rattle around which eventually fatigued the metal and allowed the bucket and shim to turn sideways and snap the timing belt..... the new cast head from down under by way of texas will be here soon. I'll take lots of pics and give you guys my view points.
 
Geoffrey Carter said:
the casting on my OEM head had a small crack which was causing the bucket to rattle around which eventually fatigued the metal and allowed the bucket and shim to turn sideways and snap the timing belt..... the new cast head from down under by way of texas will be here soon. I'll take lots of pics and give you guys my view points.
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Wow, that's crazy, I've never heard of that! I wonder if that really was an OEM head, or was an offshore replacement? Do you have any pictures of it?
 
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