Definitive Scion HU into LX 450 setup thread (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Aug 4, 2011
Threads
65
Messages
1,320
Location
Western Nebraska
OK, I've been reading on here for a couple weeks about installing a Scion head unit into my '96 LX. Obviously, installing a Scion HU into a LC seems to be very simple--plug and play. But it's a little more complicated for the LX. I'd like to compile a definitive list of parts and instructions to complete this swap, but I'll need help from the experts, please!!!

There have been a couple good threads...but nothing "definitive". This seems to be the best one: https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/218369-how-i-installed-scion-1808-hu-into-my-lx-450-a.html

There is also some good wiring information in this thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/72688-1997-lx-450-radio-install-help.html

After contributions from many members and some editing to compile information the following is the complete write-up.

So, what all is needed?

1.) Scion HU of your choice -- but make sure it's iPod compatible if you want that feature (I chose the T1806 because you can change the display color)
2.) Scion iPod harness (SC12235, available on eBay for $15)
3.) Toyota wiring harness (Metra 70-1761, available at Best Buy for $20)
4.) Toyota factory radio harness (Mobilistics WH-77, available from Mobilistics for about $4)
5.) Approximately 15' of 18 gauge wire
6.) Approximately 25 butt connectors (I got the butt connectors with shrink wrap already on them, pretty slick!)
7.) Two splice connectors

Installation steps:

A.) Remove the factory radio by removing the ash tray and pocket above the head unit. There are four screws that have to be removed in those areas then carefully pop out the bezel's friction clips. I also disconnected all the switch connectors (hazard, CDL, antenna, etc.) and the HVAC connections but I didn't fully remove the bezel from the truck. Remove the four screws in the brackets holding the head unit to the dash assembly. Once you remove the factory radio, those connectors are abandoned and not reused--except for the antenna. That cable will be reused.

B.) Remove the glove box--there are two screws at the bottom. Remove the tweeter next to the glove box--there is one screw and then the whole assembly can be removed after disconnecting the wire harness to the tweeter. Disconnect both of the gray connections on the factory amp behind the glove box/tweeter area. The new Metra wiring harness (#3 above) connects to these plugs and the factory amp is abandoned.

IMG_2646.jpg


IMG_2648.jpg


C.) The new Mobilistics harness (#4 above) connects to the Scion HU.

D.) Wiring connections have to be made between the Metra harness (#3 above) and the Mobilistics harness (#4 above). The combined harness needs to be approximately 24" long to reach from the amp to the HU location.

IMG_2650.jpg


Essentially, all you are doing is extending the factory harness that plugs into the amp over so you can plug it into the Scion HU. The existing harness in the LX is not long enough.

Knorrena and Romer have both provided some insight on how to make the connections between the two harnesses I mentioned in item D above. Some of the wiring information is also taken from Options20002001 in the other thread linked above.

LX__(S15)_____Scion_(R2)
1__FR+________FR+
2__FL+________FL+
3__PWR_(acc)__PWR_(acc)
4__PWR________PWR
5__FR-________FR-
6__FL-________FL-
7__GND________GND
8__X__________PWR ANT
9__X__________X
10_X__________Illum+

(S17)_________(R3)
1__RR+________RR+
2__RL+________RL+
3__RR-________RR-
4__WF+_______Rem._on
5__WF-_______Illum-
6__RL-________RL-

See notes below for the items in red text.

Required harness modifications:

1.) PWR ANT -- On the Scion R2 plug, pin #8 gets spliced into pin #8 (lavendar wire) of the R1 connector that will be abandoned behind the radio.

2.) Illum+ -- On the Scion R2 plug, pin #10 gets spliced into pin #2 (green wire) of the R1 connector that will be abandoned behind the radio.

There are two connectors at the back of the OEM radio--the white 15-pin R1 connector is the one that needs to get spliced into for the PWR ANT and Illum+. This R1 connector is laid out as follows:

R1

1^^2^^3^^4^^^^^^^^^5^^6^^7
8^^9^^^^10^11^12^13^^^14^15

1 = amp turn on; blue
2 = ILL +
3 = ACC; blue/red
4 = Bat +; blue/white
5 = Mute; white
6 = FL; green
7 = FR; blue
8 = ANT turn on
9 = ILL (variable controlled by the dimmer)
10 = Telephone mute; red/green
11 = Power ground; Violet
12 = Signal ground; brown
13 = Beep; black
14 = RL; yellow
15 = RR; red

IMG_2651.jpg


IMG_2654.jpg


3.) Rem. On -- This pin is not needed for this install. Apparently the Rem. On was a function for steering wheel controls in the Scions.

4.) Illum- -- This pin is not needed for this install.

This is how the final connections will look:

LX__(S15)_____Scion_(R2)
1__FR+________FR+
2__FL+________FL+
3__PWR_(acc)__PWR_(acc)
4__PWR________PWR
5__FR-________FR-
6__FL-________FL-
7__GND________GND
8__X__________PWR ANT (splice into abandoned harness pin #8, Pwr Ant (lavendar))
9__X__________X
10_X__________Illum+ (splice into abandoned harness pin #2, Illum+ (green))

(S17)_________(R3)
1__RR+________RR+
2__RL+________RL+
3__RR-________RR-
4__WF+_______X
5__WF-_______X
6__RL-________RL-

E.) Once you have the wiring done, it's time to put it all back together, but first you'll need to trim the bezel. First, make sure that you've connected both the connectors to the back of the head unit, the antenna cable, and also the iPod connector if you are installing that option. I installed the head unit and then put the bezel up to determine how much material to remove. I found it easiest to use a dremel with a cut off wheel. I also used a small drill bit style tool in the dremel to remove some material from the head unit. This is basically just trial and error, just take it slow and be careful. After all the cutting was done I smoothed it down with a file and some 400 grit sand paper, then I took a lighter to the plastic to get rid of the haze. If you use the heat in short bursts it will give the gloss back to the plastic but won't warp it.

F.) After you trim it to fit, put the screws back in, make all the final connections near the amp, hang the wires out of the way of the glove box, and then install the glove box and tweeter. I left the iPod cable and iPod in the glove box. It keeps it out of the way and you really don't ever need access to it. You can control the iPod through the head unit. You're done!

Lights off:

IMG_2660.jpg


Lights on:

IMG_2661.jpg

(...I need new bulbs in the Hazard and Antenna switches...)

IMG_2664.jpg


Additional data on the connectors for further information/clarification:

The two connectors at the factory amp that we have to disconnect and extend to the new head unit are the S15 and S16. They are laid out as follows:

S15

1^^2^^^^^^^^3^^4
5^^6^^7^^X^^X^^X

1 = FR speaker +; light green
2 = FL speaker +; pink
3 = ACC; gray
4 = Bat +; blue/yellow
5 = FR speaker -; blue
6 = FL speaker -; violet
7 = Ground; brown

S17

1^^^^^^^^2
3^^4^^5^^6

1 = RR speaker +; red
2 = RL speaker +; black
3 = RR speaker -; white
4 = woofer +; light gray/black
5 = woofer -; light green/red
6 = RL speaker -; yellow

There are two connectors at the back of the OEM radio--the white 15-pin R1 connector is the one that needs to get spliced into for the PWR ANT. This R1 connector is laid out as follows:

R1

1^^2^^3^^4^^^^^^^^^5^^6^^7
8^^9^^^^10^11^12^13^^^14^15

1 = amp turn on; blue
2 = ILL +
3 = ACC; blue/red
4 = Bat +; blue/white
5 = Mute; white
6 = FL; green
7 = FR; blue
8 = ANT turn on
9 = ILL (variable controlled by the dimmer)
10 = Telephone mute; red/green
11 = Power ground; Violet
12 = Signal ground; brown
13 = Beep; black
14 = RL; yellow
15 = RR; red

Also, I have attached the Owner's Manual that I found for the Scion T1806 head unit.
 

Attachments

  • T1806 Owner's Manual.pdf
    1.3 MB · Views: 742
Last edited:
Damn I did this a while ago. Right after knorrena. :p
I would have to go through my notes and unfortunately I am in Shanghai right now and then off to Tokyo til the 20th and then Vegas til after turkey day. I won't be much use this until after that.

One of the things that sticks out in my mind that I remember is that for the LX the amp gets 86'd. Now you have to get the wiring to bypass it. I actually bought all the connectors and the wiring from an LC and use that to tie into my existing LX wiring. With that in place it was all cake from there.
 
I got some information and clarification from mcguilacuddy via PM:

"Pin 4 & 5 of the R3 plug just get cut off. These are just signals that go to the amp that amplifies the watts to the sub woofer."

I'll add this to the original post.
 
Last edited:
Definitive Indeed

Too bad this wasn't around 3-4 years ago!
I installed an 1806, too. You can also change the settings for "interior shape" or something like that, so I'm on "xB."
Lavender is the wire you'll tap into.
Throw away the amp.
Throw away the old LX HU.

Used wire cutters or something to try to cut the hole in the bezel just right to match the 1806...came close, but not perfect. Sanded smooth the cut edges, since they tend to "shock" and turn white, too. Just take your time, so you don't scratch otherwise nice looking surfaces.
I left the connector prongs unspliced where they didn't match functions across the glovebox way, from speaker connectors to the back of the 1806.
I cut a small hole in the bottom of the little pocket above the radio hole, pushed the smaller end of the iPod connector through and then connected to the radio. This way, it won't ever fall all the way into the dash inadvertently.
Search via my name and there are a couple pics of my install.

Knowing what I know now, if I take the dive and buy another 80, I may try for one of the more zoot touch-screen or other multi-function HU's. The 1806 is very good, very useful for adjustments, etc. Just want more toy/bling/entertainment for the next potential go-round.
 
truckosaurus, you mention the newer touch screen HU's. are you talking about the latest generation scion/alpine ones with navi?

has anyone installed one of those? they go for about 300 on ebay/cl
 
truckosaurus, you mention the newer touch screen HU's. are you talking about the latest generation scion/alpine ones with navi?

has anyone installed one of those? they go for about 300 on ebay/cl

Yeah, those, or one of the special color series Scion HU's that are part of some $3k factory package, and dad and son don't like that radio, so they yank it out and sell on ebay.
 
Sheesh! This was a long time ago. I dont remember all the details that well, and I sold the set up to NLXTACY.

This is what I managed to recall. The 1808 is always iluminated, but it has two settings bright and not so bright. The bright is illum+, and not so bright is illum-. I figured these out by powering them up with 12v. I think I just used 12v power from acc for illum-, and I may have used the green wire I referred to in my write up for illum- and used the violet wire for the antenna. I could go out and check but its too cold and I am currently enjoying a nice glass of shiraz. I will attempt to set set aside some time tomorrow to confirm.

I seem to recall that rem_on was a trigger for turning the radio on from the steering wheel.

To confirm, you will no longer use the wf- and wf+ wires as these provide signal to the subwoofer amplifier. I suppose you could use the old sub and amp, but you would need to splice out of the outputs from the scion and add a crossover to get it all to work - too much work in my opinion.

Its too bad you chose to start your own thread. Unfortuntaley the information is now split out over multiple threads and is difficult to follow. It would have been more useful to append my original thread. At least its being documented.

Karl
 
interested in hearing more about these new SCION HUs!!!!

Karl, I am still rocking your setup. Everything working fine but I still feel like I am living in the past decade as far as tech is concerned :p
 
This issue has now been solved. All information in the original post has been updated.

LX__(S15)_____Scion_(R2)
1__FR+________FR+
2__FL+________FL+
3__PWR_(acc)__PWR_(acc)
4__PWR________PWR
5__FR-________FR-
6__FL-________FL-
7__GND________GND
8__X__________PWR ANT (splice into lavendar in LX plug to radio)
9__X__________X
10_X__________Illum+ (jumper into #2, Illum+)

(S17)_________(R3)
1__RR+________RR+
2__RL+________RL+
3__RR-________RR-
4__X__________X
5__X__________X
6__RL-________RL-

OK, so here is an update of the wiring with all of the information so far. All of the red text are modifications that need to be made when installing the Scion 1806. My only uncertainty at this point is what to do with the R3 #5, Illum-...
 
Last edited:
Well, I found some additional wiring information in this thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/72688-1997-lx-450-radio-install-help.html

Options20002001 provided the following information:

There are two connectors at the back of the oem radio. One connects the CD changer and the other, "R1" connects the radio to the amp. This white 15 pin connector, "R1" (female) has the pins laid out as follows:

1^^2^^3^^4^^^^^^^^^5^^6^^7
8^^9^^^^10^11^12^13^^^14^15

1 = amp turn on; blue
2 = ILL +
3 = ACC; blue/red
4 = Bat +; blue/white
5 = Mute; white
6 = FL; green
7 = FR; blue
8 = ANT turn on
9 = ILL (variable controlled by the dimmer)
10 = Telephone mute; red/green
11 = Power ground; Violet
12 = Signal ground; brown
13 = Beep; black
14 = RL; yellow
15 = RR; red

There are 3 connectors to the oem amp. The one that corresponds to "R1" is called "S16" at the amp. This white 15 pin connector "S16" connects the radio to the amp. The pin configuration in the female connector is:

1^^X^^3^^4^^^^^^^^^5^^6^^7
X^^X^^^^^X^11^12^13^^^14^15

1 = amp turn on; blue
2 = blank
3 = ACC; blue/red
4 = Bat +; blue/white
5 = Mute; white
6 = FL; green
7 = FR; blue
8 = blank
9 = blank
10 = blank
11 = Power ground; Violet
12 = Signal ground; brown
13 = Beep; black
14 = RL; yellow
15 = RR; red

Another one is a 10 hole (7 pin), gray connector which supplies power to the amp and connects the front speakers. The pins in the female are:

1^^2^^^^^^^^3^^4
5^^6^^7^^X^^X^^X

1 = FR speaker +; light green
2 = FL speaker +; pink
3 = ACC; gray
4 = Bat +; blue/yellow
5 = FR speaker -; blue
6 = FL speaker -; violet
7 = Ground; brown

The third connector, "S17" is gray and has 6 pins for the rear and subwoofer connections. The pins layout in the female connector is:

1^^^^^^^^2
3^^4^^5^^6

1 = RR speaker +; red
2 = RL speaker +; black
3 = RR speaker -; white
4 = woofer +; light gray/black
5 = woofer -; light green/red
6 = RL speaker -; yellow

I will add some of this information to the original post.
 
Last edited:
Alright!!!!!!! All the final connections have been made and the new Scion T1806 head unit is installed and working perfectly! I have fully edited and compiled all information in the original post and added photos.

Done and done!
 
Thanks for putting this together.

The lights continue to go out on my factory head unit. I'm going to start shopping for the Scion radio.
 
Installed a Scion 1819 HU the other day. Works great except I must have spliced the illumination wires wrong.

With driving lights off the HU is illuminated. With driving lights on the HU goes dark.

Here is my splice into the dash R1 harness.

Did I get the wrong wire?
image-1681466919.jpg
 
Hmm, it looks like you spliced into the correct ones... Did you use the Illum+ or Illum- on the HU side?

Pretty sure I used Illum + from the #10 pin on the HU side. Can double check when I pull the HU again later tonight or tomm.

In the t1819 the Illum - comes from the 6-pin connector:

6pin connector:
1 -> rear right +
2 -> rear left +
3 -> rear right -
4 -> telefone mute input, connect to ground to mute radio
5 -> illumination - input, connect to ground if not connected to rheostat (instument illumination dimmer)
6 -> rear left -

Thanks
 
I thought that white wire with the green stripe was one of the illumination wires.
 
Interesting... looks to be the same as the T1806 HU.

Just make sure you go from the vehicle R1 pin #2 to the Scion R2 pin #10. If you did that then I'm not sure what the problem is. Maybe the connection isn't quite solid?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom