Dealer recommended maintenance

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Joined
Jul 23, 2018
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Location
Portland, OR
Just had my last free oil change at the dealership at 70K on CPO 2013 LC. They recommended A/T exchange, but I am holding off on that now since I don't tow or have much stop/go traffic.

They also recommended Throttle Body service, Fuel Inj service & Brake fluid exchange.

I have never heard of Throttle Body or Fuel Inj service, but I am far from an experienced mechanic. Anyone more experienced shed some light on these?

Also, I couldn't find a mileage recommendation for Brake fluid (or Power Steering for that matter) in Maintenance guide or handbook...anybody know what is recommended?
 
Opinions will vary, but I’ll offer mine. The throttle body and FI service are not necessary on the 5.7L engine at only 70,000. You may want to consider those at the major 120,000 service. If the brake fluid has never been flushed on a 7 year old vehicle, I’d do that. The A/T service would not be necessary on a LC with the light duty use you describe, but again, reconsider that at the 120,000 mile mark. On a ‘13, you should keep track of the radiator top for cracks/leaks. At the 120,000 mile service consider replacing the radiator and water pump along with the coolant proactively. Do the PS fluid then too. Start a savings account now for that 120,000 mile service!
 
Definitely do the trans fluid. If brake has been more than 2 years do that too. For PS, I just exchange what's in the reservoir with fresh each oil change. You can clean the throttle body and MAF yourself. If you run top tier fuel I wouldn't worry about the injectors.

Here's taking trans to 125k:

Blackstone Trans.jpg
 
What he said about transmission. You can do a simple drain/fill at the next few oil changes and have effectively new fluid by 90k.

If your brake fluid is clear it is likely fine. You can buy economic brake fluid water testers on amazon to confirm. Or just flush it, but know our electric boosted systems are different than most vacuum assisted ones.

Get a couple big bottles of Techron from your favorite parts store and run that.

Throttle body service is snake-oil.. totally unnecessary.

I’d start exchanging PS fluid now. It is very easy to suck the old stuff out of the reservoir and refill with new at each oil change for a few.
 
Standard stealership crap. They told me the same thing at 35,000 miles on my CPO. I passed on the throttle body but did the brake fluid. I requested diffs be done as well as transfer case. I do tow a trailer 5000 +- a year. We tend to baby these rigs here , they can take a lot more neglect and still last a long long time. I was in Australia last year spoke to a few guys about the care of their rigs. They think we're a little crazy and over the top and concluded by saying they think we're being pushed by the dealerships. I don't disagree.
 
All of the "recommended services" offered by the dealer are absolutely required to make their boat payment and completely unnecessary.

If any of those "cleaning" things actually worked, then they would be listed in your owner's manual.

That said, brake fluid needs to be replaced every two to three years (are you sure that isn't in the manual?) If there is no mention of transmission fluid changes, then it is considered "lifetime". "Lifetime" for fluids is usually 100/120k miles, so it is due somewhere in the future.
 
Standard stealership crap. They told me the same thing at 35,000 miles on my CPO. I passed on the throttle body but did the brake fluid. I requested diffs be done as well as transfer case. I do tow a trailer 5000 +- a year. We tend to baby these rigs here , they can take a lot more neglect and still last a long long time. I was in Australia last year spoke to a few guys about the care of their rigs. They think we're a little crazy and over the top and concluded by saying they think we're being pushed by the dealerships. I don't disagree.
Correct. Semi funny (or sad) story. I had pre paid maintenance (for ALL factory required services up to 60k miles) on my Acura. At 28k (roughly), the dealer said "there is a required tranny flush with this service". The car was an Acura that actually popped up the required services on the dash and I know that the tranny pops up at around 60k. After I asked, they said "no, this is something new that Acura now put in" so I said "fine, it is covered under the prepaid plan then" and I've never seen anybody backpedal so quickly.
 
Definitely do the trans fluid. If brake has been more than 2 years do that too. For PS, I just exchange what's in the reservoir with fresh each oil change. You can clean the throttle body and MAF yourself. If you run top tier fuel I wouldn't worry about the injectors.

Here's taking trans to 125k:

View attachment 2149056
Interesting and useful data. Thanks! I do think this needs to be in context, though. How was the transmission used? The OP has very light duty use on a transmission with nothing that indicates severe duty. Assuming it was purchased new and lived its life with little stop and go (little shifting) and no towing, I wonder if Blackstone would find the same results as yours? That being said, the data you posted are important to me because I'm coming up on 45,000 miles and most those have been towing. So, a fluid exchange is definitely on my list now.
 
Interesting and useful data. Thanks! I do think this needs to be in context, though. How was the transmission used? The OP has very light duty use on a transmission with nothing that indicates severe duty. Assuming it was purchased new and lived its life with little stop and go (little shifting) and no towing, I wonder if Blackstone would find the same results as yours? That being said, the data you posted are important to me because I'm coming up on 45,000 miles and most those have been towing. So, a fluid exchange is definitely on my list now.

My 2013 came out of Walnut Creek and (reportedly) was used for regular Tahoe runs. I believe it because it had heavily sand pitted windshield and 104K of highway miles when only 4 years old. And there was no paint wear around the receiver so I'm assuming it never towed. So, while my miles were higher, they should have been relatively easy highway miles for the truck. Though in the 22k that I had used it there was towing as well as substantial off-road use. Either way, I'd like to see someone's Blackstone report at 60k or 90k to see how it compares.
 
Either way, I'd like to see someone's Blackstone report at 60k or 90k to see how it compares.

As noted on the above lab sheet the numbers to the right are for an average 38K mile change, though also as mentioned numbers might be artificially elevated due to manufacturing stuff removed in the first fluid change.

If you want something more specific try looking for 6-spd 5.7 Tundra transmission fluids. A lot more of those were sold.
 
You're correct in that the BS unit averages should give some idea of what to expect. I'd still like to see a report from another 200 to compare. The Tundra data should be representative. Would the 200's differences show in the report? I have no idea but I'm still curious. ;-)
 
Anybody have an opinion on a power steering fluid change? My 2014 has 59k miles and they hit me up on that every time I bring it in. I keep deferring.
 
Anybody have an opinion on a power steering fluid change? My 2014 has 59k miles and they hit me up on that every time I bring it in. I keep deferring.

Dealers will often try to put "conditioner" in there which may swell your seals. If they do anything at all, just have them drain and refill with appropriate fluid.

Mine had flush and conditioner at around 60k miles, I bought it at 105. There was a thin layer of dark gray solids sticking to the interior of the reservoir.. possibly metal. I had to replace the reservoir to get rid of it... and will forever be nervous about what that conditioner did to the seals in my steering rack. It's probably fine. But maybe not. For now it works great.

After all of this I'm in the drain/refill every oil change camp. It's a very small amount of fluid.
 
How do you folks drain the PS and Brake fluids?
 
PS you just pull out with a suction tool like a Turkey baster and then replace. There is no low point drain so you just exchange the volume each time you change the oil. Keeps it fairly new/clean.

Brake fluid you bleed.
 
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