Cut OEM FST bows and How To Fix them?

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Joined
May 12, 2009
Threads
28
Messages
357
Location
Mississippi
I purchased a set of bows from a Mud member several years back and I remembered he told me had would have to cut them due to shipping and I agreed, no problem. So, it looks like they were cut with a "tube cutter" or something like that because all of the edges are nicely sharp and straight. I'm wondering how large the kerf was. would I need to fashion a thin washer between each end ...then tack it together..then grind the weld down smooth? I think I remember somewhere on here about someone was measuring bows....but anyway, if I knew the dimension of inside to inside of the rear bow that would tell me if I just needed to tack them in place or put a shim in the cut and tack that way....any wisdom would be appreciated!
 
If he used a pipe cutter, there shouldn't be a kerf: Indeed, cutting it with a rolling pipe cutter might have (microscopically) lengthened the re-assembled part. But even if there was a 1/8" kerf (like if he sawed it) I doubt that would make any real difference in the fit.

The smart way to re-assemble would be to use a tube of smaller diameter inside the two sections you have, like an internal sleeve joint. Tack weld, epoxy, whatever
 
thanks for the prompt reply! He cut the rear bow at the top on both sides, so I actually have 3 pieces to weld back. Yes, I think an inside sleeve would be the easiest. I think I need to start a "Build" thread...thanks
 
Thanks!
 
heres the thread with measurements. I would just weld them back together. not much else is gonna hold up.
 
heres the thread with measurements. I would just weld them back together. not much else is gonna hold up.

Would weld them installed on the tub be sure everything is lined up. Piece of tie rod will make sure everything is straight. Mounted on the tub nothing will be twisted.
 
My Paki bows have a solid plastic insert that uses a set screw to hold everything together. It’s nice being able to break them down; they fit up in the rafters easier when I’m not using them.
 
When my OEM bows are installed I can stand on running board and grab the B pillar bow at the top and rock the 40 side to side bows are solid and do not flex. That is with original uncut bows. B pillar is set all the way down and bolts in the back to B pillars tighten against bow. This was my first soft top and spoiled me from any style of soft top except OEM.
 
When my OEM bows are installed I can stand on running board and grab the B pillar bow at the top and rock the 40 side to side bows are solid and do not flex. That is with original uncut bows. B pillar is set all the way down and bolts in the back to B pillars tighten against bow. This was my first soft top and spoiled me from any style of soft top except OEM.

Yeah, not an option with the Paki bows. I do wish Eshan was still making tops though.
 
Yeah, not an option with the Paki bows. I do wish Eshan was still making tops though.

Shipping uncut bows would be very expensive. Especially today with how much shipping gone up and tariffs. 2009 I bought a complete set of bows and an old Kayline top in Michigan. Shipped to Arizona the Uncut bows and top coat $200. Was worth it to me to have the uncut bows. The seller was only willing to put in and box. Address and set.it outside.
 
Thanks everyone for all of the information 🇺🇸🇺🇸
 
I decided to bite the bullet and get the bows done.. one way or another.. and man did they turn out great!! I found a spare pin that goes on an implement at it fit perfectly inside the tube.. so I drilled a hole on the backside and then tacked it in so it wouldn’t move and they went together wonderfully !! Then I ran a small bead around the pipe and the bows are solid as a rock!!

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I thought I had really screwed up someway because the pillars ( is that what you call them?) would not go all the way down .. took a while but I found what I would call a lock nut and bolt that had to be adjusted..

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