Cruiser Corps Stainless Steel Brake lines

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For whatever it is worth, I just went through the process of flaring and bending stainless brake lines. The flaring tool, tubing straightener, and bender that I used are similar to the ones shown by @Engineer8000 in his Post #17 above. One thing that I discovered along the way: Not all stainless 10mm 3/16" tube nuts are created equal; some are too short and don't have enough threads to seat the flare into the female fitting to get a good seal. This post by @Rainman illustrates the issue.
Rainman's Tube Nut Trio.webp

One solution for leaky fittings is a copper flare gasket manufactured by Parker and sold by Grainger Here. A demonstration video shows how these work:

However, it is not so easy to install the tiny copper gasket when the fitting is on the vehicle and you're fighting gravity! For some reason, the 3-way union on the front axle proved particularly troublesome to get a good seal because the head on the tube nut would bottom out on the flange of the fitting before seating the flare. I ended up using an aftermarket 3-way union that sealed with no problem.

I have ordered what I hope are some longer tube nuts (Part #Dorman (326-490-710)). We will see if these are any better.
 
For future reference, below is a photo comparison of 4 different 3/16" M10 tube nuts.
From left to right : 1) Dorman (326-490-710) ; 2) What came on our vehicle (maybe OEM but not sure); 3) Earl's Performance Hardline Tube Nuts 00103ERL (Summit Racing); and 4) 4Lifetimelines.com 3/16" (M10x1.0 Inverted) Stainless Steel Tube Nut (SKU: LTN31SS)
IMG_1997.webp
 
When I put my rig together, I purchased a Classic Tube kit for the 68 and then modified to use a dual circuit Toyota T100 master cylinder, a proportioning valve for the rear circuit, and 2 residual check valves. Once we got done with the hard lines, I ordered a set of SS braided hoses to go from the metric Toyota metric fittings to GM Monti Carlo disk caliper banjo fittings. The reason for getting a kit initially, the lines were pre-bent, so fit-up custom bends was minimized. I also bought an extra stick of Ss tubing to reroute
Master Feed Lines.webp
the second circuit to the rear.
As far as the flares for the custom work, I have a Earls flare tool that worked really well.
 
tarpaigh said:
Yes. I tried cruiser corps stainless steel lines and had leaks in way too many places where the fittings were bottomed out. They blamed me for over tightening. It turned out that actually the fittings are just too short. Everything worked fine after I bought the correct fittings and replaced them. Here is a pic.

View attachment 3140560
Click to expand...
They messed mine up too! CC brake lines does not fit right. I wouldn’t go back !
 
72LANDI said:
Does anyone have experience with Cruiser Corps stainlees steel hard brakeline kit? I'm talking about quality and fit. My 72 FJ40 will be driven in the snow so I was considering upgrading to stainlees over steel.

Here the info from Cruiser Corps site:

BRAKE LINES - FJ40 1971-1975​

No reviews
$299.95
SKU: 584-103
Model: FJ40
Year: 1971-1975
Click to expand...
I bought a spool of stainless line and made my own. Wasn't too terrible and saved a bunch of money! they obviously arent perfect but most of these trucks aren't.
 
Green Bean said:
I have ordered what I hope are some longer tube nuts (Part #Dorman (326-490-710)). We will see if these are any better.
Click to expand...
I'm battling the same 3 way connection on the front. I assume the nut going into the 3 way for the line headed to the driver's side was not sealing. @Green Bean Did that Dorman part # work? And where did you find them, they look to be discontinued.

Making my own lines with nickel copper using the below connectors. All connections fit sung except the aforementioned.

The Stop Shop Stainless Steel Metric Brake Line Invert Flare Fitting for 3/16" Tube. 10 x 1 mm (Pack of 10)

Amazon.com: The Stop Shop Stainless Steel Metric Brake Line Invert Flare Fitting for 3/16" Tube. 10 x 1 mm (Pack of 10) : Automotive - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KNGVPCC?ref=cm_sw_r_cso_sms_apan_dp_6DR14T0KW00TZ066M9AZ&ref_=cm_sw_r_cso_sms_apan_dp_6DR14T0KW00TZ066M9AZ&social_share=cm_sw_r_cso_sms_apan_dp_6DR14T0KW00TZ066M9AZ

Thanks,
 
Okay. My memory is a bit foggy. Looking back at some notes, I recall discovering not all M10 tube nuts are created equal and that 3-way Tee connector at the front axle had a problem sealing with the shorter tube nuts that I purchased from 4Lifetime. I think I went after the problem with a couple of solutions. The above-mentioned Dorman tube nuts (which have since apparently been discontinued)
IMG_1997.webp


IMG_1999.webp


But I also purchased Tube Nuts, Inverted Flare, 10mm x 1, Stainless Steel, Natural Earl's Performance (00103ERL)(5 per package) from Summit. I also see that I purchased Flare Gasket: For 3/16 In Tube Od, Flared, 1/32 In Overall Lg, 10 Pk . Finally, I see that I also ordered 3-Way Female Brake Line Tee. All ports 10 mm x 1 for inverted flare fittings (thread pitch) (Pack of 3) (Summit). To be honest, I'm not sure which solution I ended up using but the Tee fitting stopped leaking. I believe that I should have spares of all of the above (if I can find them). Too bad we're not closer, I would drop them off.
 
Only use the longest ones as shown on the left, and Toyota is Japanese style metric with DOUBLE flare, not Bubble (Euro style). Easy to make with a GOOD flaring tool (crappy causes nothing but grief).
 
Went to the auto parts store this morning to try to order that Dorman 490-710. They are special order, so I'll see whether or not they can get them in tomorrow when the store can call Dorman.

I'm using the Tool Guy Republic flaring tool. All connections are solid except for this one, so I'm pretty confident that I'm making good flares.

TGR Professional Brake Line Flaring Tool- 45 degree Set - Single, Bubb - https://www.toolguyrepublic.com/products/brake-line-flaring-tool-45-degree-set-single-bubble-and-double-flares?_pos=1&_sid=41458b3bb&_ss=r

Here is a comparison of what came off the existing line (18mm length) and the one on the right is from The Stop Shop (16mm length). That tee up front must have a slightly deeper thread length going out to the driver's side which will not allow for the flare to connect.

Most of the wrench heads strip off the existing connectors when I was trying to get the lines off. I have one, maybe two, that I can salvage. I'll make another line to see if that works. Otherwise I'm on the hunt for a 18mm long connector.

Last effort will be to try the 3/16 flare copper washers.

3/16" Copper Flare Gasket PK 10, Mfr: 2GF-3-A
3/16" Copper Flare Gasket PK 10, Mfr: 2GF-3-A: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0F6NS4THS?ref=cm_sw_r_cso_sms_apan_dp_2TGN0WE8YWEYPPB90N33&ref_=cm_sw_r_cso_sms_apan_dp_2TGN0WE8YWEYPPB90N33&social_share=cm_sw_r_cso_sms_apan_dp_2TGN0WE8YWEYPPB90N33

PXL_20260301_204850531.RAW-01.webp
 
I doubt you will get a proper fit with the short one on the right in place of the longer one on the left.
 
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