FJ40/55 Brake Line Tech (assistance requested)

[Rainman]

Still trying to get my small biz running like a well oiled machine. One with more than one cylinder. So to expose myself a little better and spread my knowledge, I thought I'd start this thread and show what kinds of issues, complaints, or disagreements I've heard here about all the lines that are going bad many decades later on our beloved Land Cruisers.

I will not be selling anything on this thread so please keep requests as a PM or on my other thread. I will be asking for opinions and help in making decisions moving forward. This forum is a huge source of information and I hope to be adding my years of research on brake lines to help others. I'll start with a few details that have come up elsewhere and get straight to the point to cover things a bit faster.

Please ask me anything on this subject and I'll do my best to help out. Ii will certainly be asking for help in developing new lines for vehicles I don't have access to. Thanks to some of you guys in advance.

 

[Rainman]

I'll start with a couple of simple items. Details that are crucial in the first steps on making brake lines.

The two images below are examples of how brake lies should look when you start flaring lines and when choosing nuts for the job. After cutting the line, I dress all cuts to remove any burrs or flakes of metal (which is very commonly left behind). Those left behind can make a mess of seals and master cylinders. Any flare that has a wrinkle or split or that is lopsided will fail. Buying the cheapest flare tool to save money might not...

Toyota used stepped end nuts. That's the treadless area at the tip of the nut. So far, I have not found any case where it is actually needed. Nut A is very similar to the original nuts. As you can see, nut C has threads that if the hole is completely threaded, this nut will have 3 to 4 more threads holding on than the original. I use and will be having thousands at a time made with the step like nut B. That will cover a narrow end to the fitting and leave 2 more threads per hole securing the line. An example is that a nut like A will easily strip on a disc front end caliper. Only two threads get applied before the line flush in the fitting.

 

[reddingcruiser]

I 100% agree with you on cheap flaring tools. I inherited my Dad's professional flaring tool that is probably 50 years old and makes perfect flares every time.

 

[Rainman]

FJ55s

Next, I'd like to ask the FJ55 owners if they would like to help me get the rest of the patterns for those trucks. I reward everyone who helps me get patterns so I can help the masses. I won't be doing business on this thread but welcome any PMs if someone has a 55 they're working on or have apart.

 

[Rainman]

Until I get the next tech write up chosen:

Who's got the best (worst) example of bad brake lines? Post photos here of some overly creative brake line rigging. I've seen some real goofy stuff that some people let go as "good enough" on some Cruisers. I'll see if I have any photos left.

Let's see what you've got...

 

[oregon fj]

I posted this before on the Wall of Shame thread, but it might fit here too. Original owner cobbled together a T-fitting splice early on to add an electric trailer brake. Apparently he decided that the 40 wasn’t adequate to tow whatever trailer he tried to tow. (Undoubtedly figured this out after he almost destroyed the rear frame rail, but that’s another story.) So he removed the trailer brake.

Did he remove the added T-fitting? No, he did not. Here’s how he dealt with that. Bear in mind this is on an early 40 with single circuit brakes!

 

[Rainman]

Hot Dog! WooHoo!.. And all that jazz...

I've got BJ70 lines on the way. So far I haven't found how to identify the month and years of build changes or even what the differences are between the FJ and BJ trucks as far as brake lines go. Any 70's series specialists out there? This will take a few weeks of course but another series covered is helping my 2018 goal.

 

[1911]

@Rainman (or anyone else who knows),

I am replacing my stock 12/79 brake master cylinder:

12/79 master cylinder

• 1911
• Dec 31, 2018

12/79 master cylinder view #2

• 1911
• Dec 31, 2018

with a non-ABS FZJ80 master cylinder:

FZJ80 non-ABS master cylinder

• 1911
• Dec 31, 2018

I have alreadyy converted my 40 to 4-wheel disc brakes.

First question: the original master had caps with residual valves underneath that the brake line nuts screwed into; the new master does not. Does the later master accept the 10mm brake line nuts directly?

Second question: when shopping on-line for 10mm brake line flaring tools, I see dies for 10mm DIN and 10mm SAE. Which standard does Toyota use?

Thanks for your help!

 

[Rainman]

Well, I'll bet if you test a 10mm nut in the two outlets, it'll fit fine.

I've got what is most likely the best flaring tool there is. The sizes for flares are by the tubing, not the nut. The line is 3/16th.

 

[1911]

Well, I'll bet if you test a 10mm nut in the two outlets, it'll fit fine.

If I can get the old ones out without destroying them, I will try that. They've been sprayed with PB Blaster every day for a week so far, and they're not budging yet. Thinking that I'll probably just buy new ones, hence my question.

I've got what is most likely the best flaring tool there is. The sizes for flares are by the tubing, not the nut. The line is 3/16th.

OK, thanks for that. I assumed the tubing would be a metric size also; that is good to know.

Thanks again for your help, and happy new year!